First grow (ww)

assasinofyouth420

assasinofyouth420

Well-Known Member
Hell yeah. Things are coming along nicely. Havent read the whole thread yet but Im definitely sub'd.

Friendly observation: It looks like they are hot. Those ridges on the edges of the leaves usually come from high temps. When I had that problem I just threw dry ice in my tent and it helped alot.
 
thegersman

thegersman

Active Member
You are correct, I had to tie one plant down...it was like 4 ft and too close to HPS bulb...everything under control now.
 
Stinkmeaner

Stinkmeaner

Well-Known Member
i cant wait to see th outcome of this! im also on my first grow with two WW ladies but theyre only in 3 weeks of veg.
seeing this is like taking a leap through time :)
 
Sr. Verde

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
Hey bud, I'm subbed to your thread, I like to keep a habit of watching a new newbie grows to assist with the basic info... if ya got questions pm me or post in the thread

Here are some threads to bookmark and do a quick read through

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688

https://www.rollitup.org/bugs/335046-grizzlys-guide-pulverizing-pests.html

You should start getting into the real flowering, the plants should start smelling around now

I just looked at the last pics, damn those are going to be some DENSE nugs.


You may want to start taking off leaves here and there... Like leaves that are 70% dead, or leaves that arent that big yet block a LOT of light from the nugs...

I'm glad your on you pH level. Most people aren't and when day 25 of flowering comes around they start getting stunted growth, dying leaves and nute lockout... then they wonder wtf happened

The IC mag link I sent you discusses how pH level relates to different nutes and lockout levels. It will tell you at WHAT pH will nutes be optimally used, and at what pH range they get locked out and NOT absorbed






\/ some basic info you might not be aware of


Your trichomes will grow clear, then they will gradually turn milky white (your buds may just look generally 'fuzzy' rather than clear from the cloudly trichs scattering light) Once they are milky white, they will reach PEAK amount of THC and after they PEAK in potentcy they will degrade. This is where you get amber trichomes. When they say cut down at like 85% cloudy 15% amber or whatever they figure with those ratios the plant is PEAKING in THC and beginning to degrade to CBD/CBN. CBD and CBN are cannabinoids, like thc. They are what give you the psychoactive effects.

When you check your trichs, check the calyxes. Not the leaves, the life cycle of the trichome on leaves is actually shorter. So the leaves really don't reflect the trichome levels of the CALYXES, the calyxes are basically the 'bud' material that makes of 'buds' Pistils (or hairs) grow from calyxes, and seeds grow inside calyxes when a plant is pollinated.

LST and topping isnt very difficult. I feel you for going the 'natural' way but it's all natural bro! bongsmilie Cannabis plants are 'topped' in nature when someone steps on the top, or an animal eats the top... Some strains (most notably blueberry) NEED to be topped to get a GOOD yield. With topping your just removing the top, and then the plant REGROWS two tops instead of one.

YOU WANT TO QUIT ALTERING THE PLANT IN ANY WAY BESIDES REMOVING A LEAF HERE AND THERE AFTER 2-3 WEEKS OF FLOWER. Basically, once you turn on 12/12, your plants think "SHIT, 80 days till winter! I need to get pollenated!" When you remove parts of your plant that stresses them, a stressed plant in flowering wont produce as much bud as it can...

For cannabis to capture pollen, the cannabis plant will produce copious amounts of STICKY resin and trichomes in an effort for some pollen to stick to the flower and get pollenated (seeds grow). YOU DONT WANT THAT! The plant will keep thinking, "SHIT! X amount of days before I die! I NEED pollen to live on! I need to produce MORE resin to get pollen!" IF your plant is pollinated it will start focusing energy on seed production. If your plant ISNT pollinated (sensimillia cannabis) it will keep pumping out all those DANK psychoactive compounds.

You probably noticed a growth boom from about the time you went 12/12 to right about now... They will slow down for a little in height, and start focusing on calyxes and hairs, then around 40-50 days the calyxes will start getting FAT and the buds will start to look huge in a period of probably just a few days. Then the LAST 2-3 weeks is when the plant starts seriously pumping out the resin in a last ditch effort to get pollinated.


You want to quit with the nutes when you think your 2-3 weeks from harvest. You want to flush the soil by adding a bunch of water and letting it all drain out, then wait like 15-20 minutes for the dissolved salts in the soil to abosorb into the water, then flush again..... Basically, when nutes are in water and they dont get taken up by the plant, they solidify into crystal/salt. You want to get ALL of those left over nutes out so the plant uses all the remaining nutrients... and so the plant material doesnt have any nasty shit in it ya know ;)



Long read, but a lot of information that took me HOURS and HOURS of reading to figure out
 
robside

robside

Active Member
Did u say your smoking "bottom leaves" ?? that must taste "nasty"!!! wait till you smoke the finished product!! WOW!! You'll be blown away.
 
Sr. Verde

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
thegersman said:
Examined all the buds, they are very dense/hard and compact...but big !!!:clap:
Click to expand...
lol just wait, check this out, note the file name for the dates

cfl grow lol

but yeah you can look slightly close and see the differences

in the first pic the buds are still developing calyxes like crazy, and the second pic was around when I chopped... in the second pic you see them fatten up a little :clap:



btw are you using molasses dude? Molasses is great, is supplies some great micro nutrients (dont listen to the 'sugars' bullshit)

You want blackstrap molasses.. You can use it to the day of harvest and it's all gravy.. I notice my buds get noticeably fatter after a nice molasses watering.. it won't make them insanely huge but it can pack a little weight/density.

Use 1 tablespoon / gal, or 1/4 tablespoon per liter... DONT use in hydro! soil only!

Usually you should be doing on and off nutrient feedings... so you do fresh water, then you do water with nutes. then fresh again yeah? Well when you add molasses to the routine, just switch back and forth from plain water, to water with molasses, then plain water again... If your plants dont use all the molasses in the watering, then the sticky sugar molasses stays in the soil.. You DONT want to get a molasses deposit in your soil, which is why you use just PLAIN water on and off (if theres any left in the soil, the PLAIN water will resaturate the molasses and it will be taken up by your plants, thats the reasoning with every other day nutrient feedings too)

Well with molasses, do the same thing, but every OTHER time add molasses to your 'fresh water'... so it should be like this:

Fresh water > Water/Nutes > Molasses/Water > Water/nutes > Fresh Water > Water/Nutes > Molasses/Water > Water/Nutes > Fresh Water


Be aware that molasses with the sugar can attract unwanted pests/critters.. so be careful and just keep an eye out.. if your ever to get any critters in the soil it's wise to not use molasses again until you get rid of them... The 'pest' thread I linked has a lot of info on simple preventative measures to keep all the bugs out of your grow. (like: keep your plant healthy, unstressed and do the ocassional misting with water on your leaves to prevent spider mites and other insects that prefer dry environments... be careful with the added moisture in flower, you want LOW humidity in flower and spraying nugs and having them soak up a bunch of water CAN lead to mold.. personally I just spray fan leafs in flower)
 

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