First LED build CXB3590

Definitely don't use that big of a breaker. It won't protect anything at that size. Use your normal breaker and try it. Electronic and mag ballasts have the same inrush and it doesn't trip the breaker. It only last for milliseconds which isn't enough time to energize the little electromagnet or bimetalic strip which trip's the breaker.
 
Update!

After doing a lot of heatsink research(see prev. Posts)
I had decided on 2 sinks with 5 lights each...until I realized...SHIT I ordered 10 cobs for my bloomroom. With 2 drivers per cob I would be stuck wiring one driver to 2 separate sinks..fuck that. Soooo.
I've decided to go with 3 12x30 from HSUSA.
And I grabbed jerry before he sent my cobs out so I added 2 more. So now I'm looking at more light in my space! :bigjoint:

So final answer.
4 cxb3590 3000k per 12x30 heatsink.
I plan mounting them all on a non automated rail above my setup, so I can move them back and forth every few days for maximum coverage

Also jerry advised me that he did not have a def. Timeline on the 5000k so I switched to 2x 4000k for veg.

The list so far
8"Mountain air (big air) carbon filter
8" hyperfan
Aeroflo36
I plan on using GH nutes as they performed well for me 15 years ago, and I still read great reviews today
12 cxb3590 3000k (bloom)
2 cxb 3590 4000k (veg)
7 mean well htg-120-1050 "b"
14x ideal holders
14x 80degree lenses


As far as drilling and tapping the HS...what a mess that would be. I will drill pilot holes and use sheet metal screws to mount the cxbs with the ideal holders.
Still researching fans for the heatsinks .
Any input?
Thanks for all the help up to this point. Love this forum!
 
DoctorDelta9 said:
Running the meanwell htg-120-1050..
Differences between input of 110VAC and 220VAC?
Aside from amperage draw. I plan on installing a dedicated breaker for the room so that's not a problem.
Everything else running will be 110VAC so having to run two separate lines will be a pain.

EDIT:
Ok so I just went over the spec sheet again...
Actually looks like the power factor is better with the 110VAC.
But I'm reading 50A inrush current?!?
Holy shit. So I'm going to need a big breaker for these bad boys??
Can anyone confirm this?

Also,
What are ya'll using for timers and on/off control?

@SupraSPL
Click to expand...

The driver efficiency should be slightly higher on 240V and will be technically safer since you would be drawing less current (when I am on 120V I push 10-11 amps and you can feel the warmth in the wires/connnections). There are downsides to 240V though, the misc equpiment is more expensive, timers, DPST switches, GFCI, outlets, plugs etc and it can cause compatibility issues with extraction fans/circ fans etc. My watt meter does not work on 240V which is a bummer too because I like to keep an close eye on that to track gpw. Now I will have to use an ammeter.

If you were to run 12/3 or 14/3 romex style cable you could use 2 of the conductors to carry 120V legs and the third conductor to carry a neutral, and the ground makes 4 despite being called 14/3. To make matters more confusing, non romex style cable is sold as 14/3 but only contains 2 conductors + 1 ground. So 14/3 romex style would allow you to have both 120V and 240V on the same board using only one wire.

I have my 240V setup using a pair of 15A breakers connected together to make a double 15A breaker and no problems with inrush current. The way I see it we might as well use the smallest breaker size possible as long as it is not tripping on you. When running on 240V this setup draws about 3.5A per tent so the circuit should never see more than 7A for a few minutes when both tents are on at the same time. So I could have used a double 10A breaker.
DSC08329a.jpg
 
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@SupraSPL
Love this! What a clean looking setup!
I already have 110 wired in the room. So I'm thinking maybe run a dedicated 220v for just the lights and use the existing 110v for fans etc. I have attic access in my room (hallelujah! ) so I'm thinking of keeping my exhaust fans in the attic to reduce noise.
What kind of timers are you using? Actually I'd love to know about your whole setup!
 
Thanks, I suppose the backside is not as pretty LOL. For 120V I use 15A aquarium timers like these PA0401, $9 at the aquarium shop. For 240V the timer should be DPST so it switches off both 120V legs. I got an ebay deal on some Tork 1104 for $25 each. Overkill but I wanted something I could hard wire.

These look cool but I think they are SPST so they leave one leg hot. That might lead to some glow or other side effects.

I used these switches. Very good quality, cheap DPST with 1/2" diameter mounting hole. They come with screw-on tabs or you can get slide on tabs but I soldered the connections and covered them in heatshrink.

When it comes down to it, 120V might be a better option depending on the size of the build. The Mean Wells can still get over 93% on 120V and as you pointed out better power factor.
 
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If I just drill pilot holes the sheet metal screws will effectively tap themselves.
What's the advantage of tapping a fine thread I into the sinks?
 
Off topic:
Researching seed banks now. So many. And they all have mixed reviews :/
Oh how I miss Marc Emery
He personally gave me my first volcano bag at CC headquarters in Vancouver.
 
SupraSPL said:
[...]
If you were to run 12/3 or 14/3 romex style cable you could use 2 of the conductors to carry 120V legs and the third conductor to carry a neutral, and the ground makes 4 despite being called 14/3. To make matters more confusing, non romex style cable is sold as 14/3 but only contains 2 conductors + 1 ground. So 14/3 romex style would allow you to have both 120V and 240V on the same board using only one wire.
[...]
Click to expand...

If you're considering a 240v run and use 4 conductor wire you should make a plug in subpanel. This would allow you to safely use 120v as well without any questionable wiring. It's not really kosher to split 240v circuits without a sub panel according to the NEC. At least from my understanding.
 
As long as they can fit in the ideal holder holes, and can come in and out with ease then I s' pose you could use sheet metal screws. Just worry about shavings and being able to upgrade down the road.
 
DoctorDelta9 said:
If I just drill pilot holes the sheet metal screws will effectively tap themselves.
What's the advantage of tapping a fine thread I into the sinks?
Click to expand...

Thought about using sheet metal screws and eventually decided to instead use fine thread screws. I'm so glad I did this, because I can effectively remove a COB and transplant it if I need to (which I've done). If I would have used sheet metal screws, chances are that something would have went awry during this process.

I think you should try using sheet metal screws and find out if it works and then report back to H.Q.
 
Tapping is the easy part. Once you have the pilot holes drilled, you can use a cordless drill with a slip clutch set to 1 and just go at it. CW, CCW, CW, CCW, CW *bbbbfffftt*, CCW, CW *bbbfffft*, CCW. Next hole. I can't see how self tapping screws are an advantage.

Make sure you use a lubricant!! I use wd-40, but have even used olive oil when I ran out. You could use kerosine, cutting oil.. Whatever.. just use lube or your threads might crack.
 
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Doer said:
OR....break the tap in the hole. Sounds like sqweesnaaaap. Woops. :)
Click to expand...

LOL!

Nice one...

I recommend tapping by hand but there may be better options out there, I don't know as I haven't tried any others. I have a thread on tapping, if it helps any... (check signature pad)
 
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