First time grower,going to stick through it till the end

cfl's are the same thing as envirolites, just the most common ones are the 23w commercial bulbs.

it is capable of producing around 6 oz under good conditions

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i have never heard of this being produced under 200w of cfl.

yea me neither haha,i mean maybe an ounce in a half if ur lucky,i should get around 10 grams i hope,if i wait till perfect harvest time with the 2 bulbs maybe a ounce im currently about to have 200watts so if i get 6 ounces ill be the happiet man on earth lol,i dont think itll happen though

gobears, you could get 1oz from the plant if you got some real nutrients, and ditched those nutrient sticks which don't distribute the solution evenly enough.

search Bio-Bizz grow + bloom, pretty reputable and 100% organic.
also, if you're feeling eccentric, go for the Canna Terra range, flores and vega.

for the grow and bloom together it's about $40, afew more for the Canna.

got no money for nutrients atm,those spikes r the only thing i have and im not using nemore nutes until im flowering,im gonna start flowering on Monday,im not gonna veg to long because i cant have a plant taller then 3 feet and i dont wanna top it so im gonna flower soon,and ill try to get other nutes but i wont have any money,but ill try

Just a quick reply to those saying you can't grow a plant under one cfl. I have a 2700 lumen 150 watt equivalent light that has grown my plant so far so good. It stretched the hell out of it because I have a really shitty setup but right now it's in flowering....and a fucking hermie.....but its growing every day.

But they're right. More lights closer to the plant the better. I found this out the hard way and should have already seen buds on it but mine is a slow grow. Lights are something I'm definitely buying when I start up my next one.

Good luck

yea i got 2 cfls now,100 watt equivalent and my plant is growing great,i mean GREAT,alot everyday,hell alot every hour,i start flower on monday have a little nute burn from nutes i prematurely inserted into the soil,flushed my plant its reboundign it hink,just a little burn on the tips of the leaves from the nute burn and the original leaves r yellow and i heard the wont recover is that true?anyways thanks man and yea i got the light 2 inches above my baby bout to start up my 2nd cfl in 30 mins when lights go back on,my baby is asleep right now.will put pictures up once i get triple a batterys

also kamikazi start a thread id love to follow the rest of ur plant even though its a hermie,and my first one stretched at first and fell over and broke when i tied it so this is my 2nd attempt and its way better,my first try went from under soil to 5 inches in an hour,and this one is like 4 inches tall after almost 2 weeks so its going alot better and actually getting the marijuana plant look!

i will have pictures in 30 mins when i turn the light back on and get the new setup,ill take pictures of the stuff i bought today,and of the plant,and if any of u can let me know for sure that its nute burn id be truly happy!

heres the pics i promised:

the bulb set

The new splitter

the plant 2 weeks on Monday,some messed up leaves

a picture of the messed up leaf the color is yellow/brown in the dark spot

I hate the blurry camera,its shitty

New Thermometer,80 degrees the grow room

NEw setup,and the plant

yeah my guess it woudl be nute burn. i have been told that those stakes kill weed pretty fast. id say just grow it with no nutes or use wood ashes and coffee grounds till you can buy some cheap peaters 20-20-20. your off to a good start though just note any mistakes and learn from em.

thanks man really! i got a shitload of coffee i havent used its folgers would that be good and how would i i do it?and do u think i can find any cheap nutes at Walmart?

thanks for info on cfl, 200 watt envirolites can def grow 150 g but that is wet and would b bout 42g dry,did 12 oz under 400 watts.p.s these envirolites are 18 inches long

next time explain that you meant wet weight, saves for confusion.

the wet weight is of no use to anyone.

you want to go for any vegging nutrient with a 1:1:1 NPK value, the ideal is 20-20-20, so if you find, say a tomato plant nutrient with 5-5-5, then simply multiply the dosage by 4.

for flowering you'll want something high in phosphorous, so about a 10-30-20 NPK value, find something with roughly a 1:3:2 NPK ratio and multiply as needed.


ya dig?

yea,somethings up with my baby i noticedlast night some of the leaves r getting like fat bubbles where the bottom came to the top and like it looks weird,i dont know what the problem is nemore,im hoping for the best,ive already flushed and this will suck if nething bad happens

ok now im worried,theres some holes in the bad leaves where the dead spots r,could that be from just the dead spots or does taht mean i have bugs?i mean i do have fruit flys and now some weird looking bugs like flying ants or something,or small bees its confusing,the top leaves look good but the bottom ones r gettng bad,i think the bottom leaves will be dead within 2 weeks most likely,any suggestions to keep bugs away?someone said 2 drops of soap in water then spray on the soil and plant would that really work?

hm;

1) USDA recommendation: Mix one teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent with one cup of vegetable oil. Shake vigorously to emulsify and add to a quart of tap water. Use at 10-day intervals as an all-purpose spray for white flies, spider mites, aphids, and various insects on carrots, celery, cucumbers, eggplants, peppers, and others. We've used it on evergreens and other ornamentals. Note: Test on a single plant first, because it may cause tip burn. This is a contact insecticide, so spray mix directly on the pest.

2) Liquid detergent-alcohol spray:

Mix one teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent plus one cup of rubbing alcohol in one quart of water. Test on a few leaves first to make sure no harm is done to sensitive plants. Spray top and bottom sides of leaves; or if plant is small and potted, invert it in a large pan of solution (holding soil ball securely) and gently swish back and forth. Repeat in seven days.

3) Liquid detergent—hot pepper spray:

Steep three tablespoons of dry, crushed hot pepper in 1/2 cup hot water (covered) for half an hour. Strain out the particles of peppers, and then mix solution with the liquid detergent formula mentioned above. Good for a number of insects on both indoor and outdoor plants. Note: Apply to plants outdoors. Do not use on windy days. Avoid breathing fumes, which can be irritating to nose and eyes. You can substitute hot Tabasco sauce or Louisiana hot sauce for hot pepper.

Pyrethrin: This natural insecticide derived from the pyrethrum plant (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium). Along with pyrethroid, its synthetic substitute, it is highly effective against a wide range of insects. Each should be used according to manufacturer's directions.

Lime sulfur: This old-timer, still used by both organic and nonorganic gardeners, is applied during the dormant period. Kills most species of mites as well as mite eggs and those of many other insects. Lime sulfur also has fungicidal value and can be used on fruit trees as well as ornamentals. Note: Lime sulfur applied to plants near the house will stain the paint. Apply cautiously near buildings.

Sabadilla: Made from seeds of a South American lily. Used for squash bugs and stink bugs. Irritating to eyes and lungs if care is not taken. Use according to manufacturer's directions.

Garlic and onions: Grind up raw onions or garlic into a puree. Soak in warm water overnight and strain. Liquid can be sprayed on roses, fruit trees, and flowers. Kills aphids . Scrape off any loose bark on the trunk and swab liquid on. Many gardeners mix onion water and wood ashes and paste mixture on tree trunks.

Ryania: Made from ground stems and roots of a South American shrub. Controls European and worms. See directions on container.

Tomato leaves, crushed: To avoid chemical sprays, try using crushed tomato leaves for leaf-spot diseases. Tomato leaves contain solanine, a chemical that has an inhibiting effect on black spot fungus. Grind two cups of leaves to a puree. Add five pints of water and one ounce of cornstarch. Keep refrigerated.

Tobacco water: Cigar and cigarette butts will kill worms in the soil of houseplants. Mix a solution of tobacco and water so that it is the color of brown tea; pour on the soil. Don't let anyone drink it by mistake! The solution kills fungus gnats, symphylids, centipedes, root lice, and other underground pests or bong water.

If you have aphids or other insects in your terrarium or dish garden, ask a friend who smokes to blow cigarette smoke into the glass and then seal the top. The smoke knocks plant lice for a loop.

Snuff: For tiny flies or worms in the soil of house plants, try sprinkling snuff on the surface. Note. Do not use homemade tobacco remedies on tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and other members of the Solanum family. It could spread tobacco virus to these plants.

Retenone: An old remedy for killing Mexican bean beetles. It is produced from derris, a plant found in Central and South America. Kills aphids, thrips, and chewing insects on contact. Note: Toxic to fish and nesting birds.

Hot pepper: To discourage cats, dogs, many insect pests, and snails from munching, dust powdered hot pepper or a spray of hot pepper sauce on plants.

Oil and sulfur sprays: Petroleum oils (of organic derivation) have been used successfully for killing insects for over 200 years. Apply only on "hard" or woody plants. There are two types:

1) Dormant oil should be used only when plants are dormant — in winter or early spring.

2) Summer oil should be used during the growing season and restricted to woody plants. Some oil sprays can be applied in either summer or winter.

Miscible oil sprays kill insects and eggs such as over-wintering leaf rollers and aphid and mite eggs. They also kill scale insects and adult mites. Dilute with water according to manufacturer's directions. The oils cause little or no harm to most beneficial insects, and resistance to sprays does not build up with oils.

Talcum powder: Effective against flea beetles and corn ear worm. Lightly dust leave surfaces after every rain.

Soaps as insecticides: Soapsuds are ideal for killing aphids. Many home gardeners prefer vegetable- or plant-based soaps as effective aphicides.

Rhubarb leaves: Boil one pound of chopped leaves in one quart of water for 30 minutes. Strain and use as a spray against aphids and other pests.

Garlic and red-pepper spray: Grind up a large bulb of garlic (or a large onion). Add one tablespoon of ground cayenne pepper and one quart of water. Steep for one hour. Strain liquid into a sprayer or watering can and refrigerate remainder in a tightly covered jar. It will be potent for several weeks, and is effective on all kinds of chewing and sucking insects.

Spearmint spray: Put into a blender one cup of chopped spearmint leaves, one cup of green onion tops, and 1/2 cup of chopped hot-red pepper. Add 1/2 cup of water to assist in blending. Pour solution into a gallon of water. Add 1/2 cup of liquid detergent (preferably lemon-scented). Dilute by adding 1/2 cup of mixture to a quart of plain tap water.

If the plant is small, dunk it in this solution, otherwise strain it and spray on. Effective on all chewing insects.

i'd say research them thoroughly before using any.
i stick to organic insecticides.

gobears4eva said:

thanks man really! i got a shitload of coffee i havent used its folgers would that be good and how would i i do it?and do u think i can find any cheap nutes at Walmart?

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used coffee grounds soak em in water over night same with grey wood ashes soak and use or pee mixed like 20 to 1 all cheap.

you can mix a little dish soap with some vinegar in a glass and it will kill fruit flys just let it sit out.

yes walmart has alot of cheap nutes under 10 some people use MG orchid food guess it works ok just look for something thats has pretty equal NPK numbers and youll be ok. mix at 1/4 what it says oin the package.

ok thanks guys