FlowaMasta's Methodology @ How to Grow Monster pound plants!!! ( Jack H X Skunk )
- Thread starter flowamasta
- Start date
MISSPHOEBE
Well-Known Member
ooooooooooo stripy tripyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
MISSPHOEBE
Well-Known Member
OMG is it wrong - that I am slightly turned-on?If you like that then check this out:
Cheers,
Mo
LOL
eastcoastmo
Well-Known Member
LOL Miss Phoebe, it does strangley look like a female 'playing' instrument hey 
Downinit- dude nice buds!! How many watts are you using in there?
Downinit- dude nice buds!! How many watts are you using in there?
380w but I could use more. Thinking of adding another 135w but not to bad, right?LOL Miss Phoebe, it does strangley look like a female 'playing' instrument hey
Downinit- dude nice buds!! How many watts are you using in there?
eastcoastmo
Well-Known Member
Dude that is off the hook, you got some fat, resinous buds there bro 
well done mate!
well done mate!Thanks easty!!!!! I wish I had a better camera cause my shity iPhone does not do her justice. PE grows very wellDude that is off the hook, you got some fat, resinous buds there bro
bambambigalow*
Member
Hey FlowaMasta,
came back to your thread since im going to harwest, and start a new setup soon.
Think about to try your methode, just in smaller buckets and on a table instead of the drain line.
I now have some plants in hempy buckets, with clay rocks 2" in the bottom and pure perlite above.
But i always get some root rot in there, dont know why cause im going with AN g/m/b - piranha and voodoo juice, which should prevent root rot.
Well i won't do hemy again cause i also have problems with overfeeding, since you can't really flush hempy buckets.
I don't know, so many people swear on hempy to be the most simple most productive mothode..., not for me.
well, but i want to use those 10L buckets to try your methode just little smaller, with a veg time not more than 2 weeks.
So you have no troubles with root rot ?
as i could see you don't use a water chiller.
What water temps you have in your res, cause i always though my root rot is coming from to high water temps.
i used to run NFT but this in only possible in winter, cause of the wanter temps.
Also in NFT i got root rot.
i desinfect my system with H2O2, Bleach and Physan20, so i really don't know why it keeps coming back.
perhaps you have had root rot , and a good advice for me
Cheers ,
bam
came back to your thread since im going to harwest, and start a new setup soon.
Think about to try your methode, just in smaller buckets and on a table instead of the drain line.
I now have some plants in hempy buckets, with clay rocks 2" in the bottom and pure perlite above.
But i always get some root rot in there, dont know why cause im going with AN g/m/b - piranha and voodoo juice, which should prevent root rot.
Well i won't do hemy again cause i also have problems with overfeeding, since you can't really flush hempy buckets.
I don't know, so many people swear on hempy to be the most simple most productive mothode..., not for me.
well, but i want to use those 10L buckets to try your methode just little smaller, with a veg time not more than 2 weeks.
So you have no troubles with root rot ?
as i could see you don't use a water chiller.
What water temps you have in your res, cause i always though my root rot is coming from to high water temps.
i used to run NFT but this in only possible in winter, cause of the wanter temps.
Also in NFT i got root rot.
i desinfect my system with H2O2, Bleach and Physan20, so i really don't know why it keeps coming back.
perhaps you have had root rot , and a good advice for me
Cheers ,
bam
flowamasta
Well-Known Member
Love it!!If you like that then check this out:
Cheers,
Mo
No prob man!! Lookin sweet as!! turned my head sidewayz and they look super frosty to me man!! Cannot complain!!! can only get better too
Hey matey, a 10 litre bucket is still a little small for this method even for 2 weeks. I would double that to be safe... in my opinion ofcourseHey FlowaMasta,
came back to your thread since im going to harwest, and start a new setup soon.
Think about to try your methode, just in smaller buckets and on a table instead of the drain line.
I now have some plants in hempy buckets, with clay rocks 2" in the bottom and pure perlite above.
But i always get some root rot in there, dont know why cause im going with AN g/m/b - piranha and voodoo juice, which should prevent root rot.
Well i won't do hemy again cause i also have problems with overfeeding, since you can't really flush hempy buckets.
I don't know, so many people swear on hempy to be the most simple most productive mothode..., not for me.
well, but i want to use those 10L buckets to try your methode just little smaller, with a veg time not more than 2 weeks.
So you have no troubles with root rot ?
as i could see you don't use a water chiller.
What water temps you have in your res, cause i always though my root rot is coming from to high water temps.
i used to run NFT but this in only possible in winter, cause of the wanter temps.
Also in NFT i got root rot.
i desinfect my system with H2O2, Bleach and Physan20, so i really don't know why it keeps coming back.
perhaps you have had root rot , and a good advice for me
Cheers ,
bam
My res sits outside of the tent, in the doorway (coolest part of the room) When you think of outside in the weather, have you ever felt the ground on a hot day? it can get VERY hot. Thats not to say its that temperature underneath though, but at a guess temps between 20-35 degrees would be very possible, this isnt ideal ofcourse, but root rot comes from an outside source of bacteria and not from the nutrients you are giving to prevent the rot rot or anything like that usually.... I did have root rot, or VERY MILD rot, as i could see by the health of the leaves, and the surface of the perlite. It should stay fairly clean and maybe go a mild brown colour from the wash off from nute, but should NEVER get gluggy, mouldy, or cold/wet gross in any way, so the key is to find your balance with water/air ratio find out how often you need to feed given the climate conditions you have in your tent including cooled/non-cooled hood... without glass over your lamps will require more frequent feedings.
When i had mild root rot, I used a simple and always effective solution, by introducing Fongarid
its a cure aswell as solution all in one, you can give with/without rot rot, but its done by halving one of the sachets and while flushing with luke warm water add the fungarid which acts as a systemic fungacide, the beneficial bacteria will attach themselves to the roots, and eat away at the bad guys. The fonga rid is imediately flushed away, and fresh nutrients added. Re-applied after 1 week to guarantee the prevention of rot/fungus.It works
I use NOTHING else. Its systemic for only a short period and i wouldn't go using it during flowering only as it will inhibit the uptake of phosphorous. The plants might go into a mild dormant phase, before they pick up again, and new root hairs begin to flourish.Here she was last night!, Sorry scratch that 2 days ago!!!
Day 26 flowering!
Gotta love this shot
No flash, Just click n shoot
Chipper Pig
Well-Known Member
I just click n shoot, and my pictures never turn out like that!!!
The Gold is looking really nice mate, how long was the last one flowered for?
The Gold is looking really nice mate, how long was the last one flowered for?
eastcoastmo
Well-Known Member
Lol Im the same as you Chips, always takes me ages just to focus the damn thing haha.
Flowa- the amster is one stunning looking girl, i cant get over how frosty she is bloody awesome bro!!
Flowa- the amster is one stunning looking girl, i cant get over how frosty she is
bloody awesome bro!!
flowamasta
Well-Known Member
The Samsung WB150F is still a killer camera
The trick is to keep the exposure low, and have a high sensitivity shutter sensor. An iso of 80 or under is ideal for HPS lighting, its MORE than enough light to drench the sensor in colour in less the 20,000th of a second. I just gradually increase the measuring bit by bit at varied distances, eventually you will find all the sweet spots for the cam. The thing is, the difference between a green coloured pic or a bright red HPS lookin pic can be the difference in 100-200 ISO +/- Keep trying!! I'm no pro, just persistence and a 16gb memory card in the camera I cant remember the last harvest days, if someone corrects me thats fine!! i think it was around 48 days, maybe 50.
But thanx man!!
Thanx Easty! she is lookin fine indeedioLol Im the same as you Chips, always takes me ages just to focus the damn thing haha.
Flowa- the amster is one stunning looking girl, i cant get over how frosty she is
My yield is looking ok at this stage, could be better on the right side, thinking of moving the HPS in the corner to the other side. Its a task, but i think it could be of benefit.
eastcoastmo
Well-Known Member
I could only imagine mate, it would certainly add on some weight on that side
flowamasta
Well-Known Member
Well, i went ahead and tried out a couple of different positions, with the safest being directly at the top right along side the other to even out the spread while i shifted the other hood slightly down the rails so the could sit side by side. The 2nd doesn't spread ALL the way, but it sits in such a way that it blends evenly so i don't have any dramatic hot spots... I probably will though!! New at Using Dutchmaters and i mistakenly added more potash when it wasn't needed along with add.27 additive. So that may mean i won't need swell...., But i'm going to use both sparingly as the add.27 is unique in the way it breaks down mineral nutrients. Again it has that secret formula HINT HINT : Phosphorus acid. But in awesome combination to wild smelling salts and vitamins.... should be AWESOME!!!! The smell of this Amster is completely different using Dutch Masters through flowering. Her calyxs are forming large and swollen and i JUST hit week 5. She stinks too.I could only imagine mate, it would certainly add on some weight on that side
I don't mind cooling hoods as i myself use the flat base hood design and it works great, but could be modifies to be better ofcourse!!
Having glass is meant to be ok as long as its clean and pure un-laminated glass. UVA is somewhat filtered out, but UVB onwards most definitely comes through. I think personally, a flat glass design with holes evenly spread over it would be best, but bugger handling that, and the spread would be messed up, but some heat to a degree helps the plants growth, so if you can touch your glass safely for 5 seconds i'd say its too cold! warm is good in my opinion, or transpiration doesn't happen, and you end up with very humid conditions, especially during dark period. I always say if you're using glass, use it as CLOSE as possible
Mine actually is so close it prematurely bleaches some fan leaves, and its so bright in those areas my camera cant compensate with both lamps on and i get a bright orange picture! Very intense lighting, but little radiant heat it given out.During grow, makem stretch, and during flower bring it down just over the buds until the leaves perk up and do their magic