Flowering nutes NPK

im currently using the bio canna line and am experiencing difficultys keeping my plants green and healthy through flowering sativas seem to run purple haze, trainwreck both stretched and foxtailed with loose buds.

Indicas or mostly indicas seem to be okay although the yield isn't great as part of diagnosing my problem i checked the NPK and it not ideal:
BIo flores 2.5 2.0 5.0
Bio Boost 0.02 - 0.12 - 0.08

I would rather have a NPK of 1-1-2 as this seems to be the best ratio for cannabis flowering.
i have bought molases, guanokalong, and potash
the idea was to use a mixture of these for flowering the trouble im having is how to work out mixing rates and dosage
I have the npk for each item.
molasses 1- 0-5
potash 3 -0 -17
guanokalong 1-10-1

I will really appreciate any help or advice its got me a bit stumped the best npk i can come up with is by mixing all parts equally and it comes to 6-12-23 which is more of a 1-2-3 ratio.

Thanks
Ben

Medium?

oh sorry lol its made up off 20l bio terra from my last run, 10l canna coco (rinsed to death lol) 10l biobizz worm humus mix 10l biobiz all mix. I also mixed in epsom salts about a handful, molases about a cup full. i also use myco fungi which i put in the bottom of the hole when i pot up.

in vegging i use canna's bio vega, biobizz roots, maxicrop seaweed extract plant stimulator the later two get foliar fed aswell as being mixed in with the feed every other watering.

mckenzie41 said:

im currently using the bio canna line and am experiencing difficultys keeping my plants green and healthy through flowering sativas seem to run purple haze, trainwreck both stretched and foxtailed with loose buds.

Indicas or mostly indicas seem to be okay although the yield isn't great as part of diagnosing my problem i checked the NPK and it not ideal:
BIo flores 2.5 2.0 5.0
Bio Boost 0.02 - 0.12 - 0.08

I would rather have a NPK of 1-1-2 as this seems to be the best ratio for cannabis flowering.
i have bought molases, guanokalong, and potash
the idea was to use a mixture of these for flowering the trouble im having is how to work out mixing rates and dosage
I have the npk for each item.
molasses 1- 0-5
potash 3 -0 -17
guanokalong 1-10-1

I will really appreciate any help or advice its got me a bit stumped the best npk i can come up with is by mixing all parts equally and it comes to 6-12-23 which is more of a 1-2-3 ratio.

Thanks
Ben

Click to expand...

I speculate you may have issues with too much nutrients if you do that, I personally don't like to use molasses as a food source, i'm well aware that its got plenty of potassium in it and other micros, and don't get me wrong, molasses is a MUST have when it comes to organics, but I've consistently had issues when using it and thinking of it as a food source, do you have any access to rabbit manure?, that's is a perfect mixed source of nutes on its own, and is nice and safe to use as either a tea or a topdress (recommended) the topdress is a good way to do it, I like to mix it with EWC and water it through.
I prefer a kelp tea if that's the route you want to take, perhaps with the guano... I don't like guano either, I used it for years but have seen better results with less nutes
Sativas run, maybe they are just doing that, you sure you are providing enough lumens?, and even so, many, many sativas run and foxtail in natural sunlight so it may be the way it just is.
I know, I LOVE me some sativas, seems to be more and more my preference this last decade, growing a lil weary of the knock-out indica that makes you crawl back and forth to the fridge over and over.
But growing them is a challenge, and they do indeed like their nitrogen, especially when initially triggered in flowering, the first 20 days of flowering or so, many growers dial back their nitrogen during flowering, I believe this is a mistake, having much better results when giving nitrogen throughout, especially sativas..
alfalfa is another good tea, but some fear the tricanatrol (may have spelled that wrong),

My advise would be to steer clear of the NPK myths. If you are using a quality humus source and your soil has good cec it's more a matter of having enough, not the correct ratios. I would also read at least the first several pages the Recycled Organic Living Soil thread.

Peace!
P-

THOES DARND OL' NPK MYTH's

Thanks for everyones input i have harvested the purple haze and pulled the roots and they was rotten in the bottom half of the pot i think im an eternal over-waterer lol this is why i prefer hydro for ease of growing i never have any problems with hydro ive never been good with soil organic or synthetic my experience is in hydro but as im sure you all know organic tastes better even when my plants are pale and lower leaves yellow and die at 3-5 weeks (looking back its a combination of not enough nitrogen on initiation of 12 - 12 followed by over watering when the plants start flowering).

I do have access to more rabbit droppings than i could ever need lol, what would i have to do to make them easily broken down i like the idea of using ewc and rabbit droppings in a tea which at a guess i would probably end up feeding once a week what kind of quantities of each would i use to make a 2 gal - 10l of tea, i love making aerated compost tea but at the moment im only feeding them teas in veg because of the amount of nitrogen in the ewc / biobizz / molases that i use in my vegging teas (greasmonkey mann You mite have a point about nitrogen all the way through i believe this may stop my premeture yellowing).

i currently have a bb x ww and a g13 blue og in flower they are 4 weeks into 12 - 12 i started to get yellowing of the lower leaves, pale growth tips on the BOG at week 3 due to me over feeding i used too much bio canna and it overfed her at week day 12 when the flowers started showing so i flushed it reallly well waited for it to dry out which took a week when prior to overferting it was drinking alot i was having to water every 2 days, i gave it water agin and it took 5 days to dry out and had droopy leaves. I fed with a mixture of molases, guano and potash i used equal but verry small amounts of each the BOG is now recovering although the lower third is yellow and the whole top of the plant is pale although the drinking is still alot lower than the bb x ww which used to be the other way round.

The mix i made has had brilliant results on the bb x ww it transformed into a beast within 3 days of having the mix its flowering faster than any plant ive ever grown. I have a 600w dual spec hps the bulbs a year old though so probably could do with replacing i also use a cool tube which i really dont rate.

I will post pics of them both and hopefully someone can shed some light on whats happening to the BOG it looks to me like either pythium or nitrogen deficiency/ lockout.

Since ive turned to organic the indica's are way too sleepy mongy for me even the purple haze was nock out material and it looked pure sativa and took 15 weeks to flower it had a buzz to the first few joints then major couchlock and sleeepiness a good one to stop the fridge raiding as its too much effort to get up lol, I absolutely love the tingling forehead chatty tidy the house stone from some sativas but love kush, blueberry and trainwreck for getting a good sleep. I have insomnia i rarely get to sleep before 4 am and get up at about 10 it kills me.

Here's a pic of the premature yellowing on my previous GH Jack herer which im not a fan of what kind of skunk haze looks indica like that lol it tasted okay though like fruity skunk nothing like any of the other jack herers.

This has exactly the same problem as my bog although this was a crap atempt at organic flood and drain.

This is what my plants look like at that stage in hydro im getting close to going back but this time trying a 3 week flush to get the nice clean taste im now used to but im very reluctant to go back to synthetic carcinogenic bud.

Well that was long lol

i mite be wrong but does the soil retaining too much water cause nitrogen lockout i use no vermiculite or rise hulls and im now in the process of reading the recycled soil no-till post. would the use of biochar prevent my persistent yellowing problem if its not related to over watering. does anyone use 25l pots ive noticed alot of organic growers are using what looks like 15 l pots i only veg for about a month after cuttings and seeds have properly established there self

mckenzie41 said:

i mite be wrong but does the soil retaining too much water cause nitrogen lockout i use no vermiculite or rise hulls and im now in the process of reading the recycled soil no-till post. would the use of biochar prevent my persistent yellowing problem if its not related to over watering. does anyone use 25l pots ive noticed alot of organic growers are using what looks like 15 l pots i only veg for about a month after cuttings and seeds have properly established there self

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Now soil building I Am new at but I used to use bottled nutes, Blue Mountain Organics, with just some used up promix mycho, and I learned Big time to Let the soil dry out... Which on herethey say don't that soil needs to stay wet so you need to mulch it, and maybe that's what needs to happen pretend your cannabis is a Forest. But from my personal experience which is not much, I cultivated it more like a crop. And I usedto have the worst problems and bud rot because I was OVER Watering.! Once I started letting it dry out... An old buddy once told me years when I first started getting into growing, to check the soil from the drain holes, if dry then water. But I definitely had deficiencies and or lock out with Too Much water, and ALSO I was growing 12/12 from seed, and I Had to Feed Grow the whole cycle AMD Actually i would feed Double the amount of grow to stop yellowing. I would use all at once, BMOs Grow it Green & Super Plant Tonic 2tbls/gl, and Foliar Harmony & Flower Power Tbls/gl.

Actually has anyone heard of Dry Farming? It is gaining strength again, but has been practiced for thousands of Years and Ancient Greece wrote about it. Basically it was How people grew Most everything for Millennia, which is to let it Just grow and Not Over Water.

Dry Farming is good because the posterity of seeds becomes accustomed to Dryer cultivation, hence less use of water.

But Also! Dry Farming brings All the Attributes and Virtues of plants to Full Fruition, providing Significantly Tastier and Healthier food because the Majority of the cells are Not saturated with Water.

I need to do some more experiments and research and make a thread.

You Californians should know something about it, I think some, well I Know Sustainable Seed Company does, but I believe there is a decent amount of farmers out there that practice dry farming.

cannakis said:

Actually has anyone heard of Dry Farming? It is gaining strength again, but has been practiced for thousands of Years and Ancient Greece wrote about it. Basically it was How people grew Most everything for Millennia, which is to let it Just grow and Not Over Water.

Dry Farming is good because the posterity of seeds becomes accustomed to Dryer cultivation, hence less use of water.

But Also! Dry Farming brings All the Attributes and Virtues of plants to Full Fruition, providing Significantly Tastier and Healthier food because the Majority of the cells are Not saturated with Water.

I need to do some more experiments and research and make a thread.

You Californians should know something about it, I think some, well I Know Sustainable Seed Company does, but I believe there is a decent amount of farmers out there that practice dry farming.

Click to expand...

that's kinda my theory on letting the soil get a lil dry (not bone dry), in that I disagree with many organic farmers here, but I've just noticed a much better end product, and the rootball is more dense and the roots are white hairs, so i'm only basing my opinion on the results, which is how I think we should all do it, reading can only teach you so much.
like fixing a car, or women, you can read all you want to about them, but until you get your feet wet, you don't know shit

greasemonkeymann said:

that's kinda my theory on letting the soil get a lil dry (not bone dry), in that I disagree with many organic farmers here, but I've just noticed a much better end product, and the rootball is more dense and the roots are white hairs, so i'm only basing my opinion on the results, which is how I think we should all do it, reading can only teach you so much.
like fixing a car, or women, you can read all you want to about them, but until you get your feet wet, you don't know shit

Click to expand...

haha yeah dats right.!

definitely i have had problems in the past where the bottom dries out really quick and the mid top stays damp which also causes problems it might be worth testing to see how dry they can go before the leave stems flop i have seen big improvements a few days after a plant has drooped but it turns the lower leaves yellow and i've always thought early yellowing damages yield. The stress of being dry also bangs the trics on i normally leave them to dry till they come close to drooping twice in flowering each time there is a noticeable boost to buds followed by an increase in trichs. i think always allawing to dry like this would make deficiency and toxicitys as there not being fed or flushed as often as it takes a good 4-5 days to get that dry.

What about feeding neutes when the medium is slightly dry does this cause neut lockout / burn as it does with synthetic neutes, How do you guys water are you watering untill you get run off also do you feed teas / neutes till they run off?

Here's the pics of whats happening with my current plants
^ BOG you cant really see how pale its gone but it was quite dark in vegging, the buds are verry small for 4 weeks 4 days. from 12 - 12
^ close up of BOG

^ BB x WW this plant looks a lot better although a few of the lower leaves are turning yellow but i think this is normal as its a 7 wk flowerer apparently lol.
Here's a close up of bb x ww does any one think it might be short on magnesium ive heard people say when the upper leaves point up like that its a mg deficiency which when i was growing hydro kush i always had to give them a boost at 4 weeks i hate diagnosing problems its not something im used to, i think i was lucky to not run into any of these probs with hydro.