Fox Farm Ocean Forrest is giving my plants nute burn

Hmm, maybe I'm wrong. The OP said some were at day 49 which is 7 weeks. It looked like it had started flowering in this pic. The photo is kind of blurry. I could be wrong.

Wasn’t trying to throw your post I just didn’t see any pollen sacks or buds
 

Ammandah20

Member
Are you sure they weren't auto flowering seeds? It looks it if you are under 20/4 all along.

I blend FF Happy Frog and Ocean Harvest.....probably about 60% Happy Frog, 40% Ocean Harvest....adding 2 cups of perlite and 1 cup of extra worm castings to each 5 gallon smart pot.
Nope I'm not sure they weren't autoflowering. They are seeds I picked out of some discount bud I got from a med dispensary.
 

Couch_Lock

Well-Known Member
78 to 84 is fine with good air circulation. Looks like a recent run of Big Bloom caused slight nute burn on some tips. Just be aware that some strains "burn" more easily then others. My Fav strain of the 3 I am growing has two leaves with nute burn. The other 2 strains are fine. I am going to avoid Big Bloom for my Orange Cookies X Chocolate Diesel, it will just get good ph'd tap water in veg now.
 

Rickypsimer

Well-Known Member
Its not unusual for plants to show sex without being in flower.

Just curious. What is your humidity level? If it's low, your plant will take up more moisture from the soil and transporate more. With water comes nutrients which can lead to a burn if you were on the line.....
The plants will show there sex weeks before they switch to flower once they are marure 3-4 weeks every plant is going to start to display it's sex
 

hanimmal

Well-Known Member
Overwatering can look like any kind of root problem from what Ive seen.

It is very easy to overwater, leaves pointed down (and a little fat) could lead to poor nutrient uptake.
 

Ksouth1

Member
fwiw, I have one extraction fan connected to a humidity controller. The only time that fan comes on is when the humidity goes over a set limit. The ambient outside my tent is about 30% at this time of year, so it works very effectively to lower the tent humidity when needed.

The room temp is in the 50's, so I keep the tent temp up with a small space heater on another controller.

Between the two of them I can keep a fairly stable temp/humidity range in the tent. And I have multiple fans in there moving air about.

I really don't think ffof by itself is burning your plants. Something else is at play.
It can be ffof burning the plants by itself without a doubt. Had the same thing happen with my Amnesia Haze auto when giving her only water.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
I compensated for FF crap and nute issues with ph adjustments to control nute uptake. Higher for less N and lower for more. 6.4-6.8 last time used in flower. Just my only solution to that balancing act. Short of finding a new mix.

Best wishes.
 

Ksouth1

Member
I compensated for FF crap and nute issues with ph adjustments to control nute uptake. Higher for less N and lower for more. 6.4-6.8 last time used in flower. Just my only solution to that balancing act. Short of finding a new mix.

Best wishes.
Thanks for the advice!
 

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
FFOF on water only .... Ph at 6.5 - 6.7 ( FFOF is prebuffered at 6.3 )
say I have a solo cup and 4 gal container with straight Ocean Forest and my tap comes out around 7.5-8.
If I water without adjusting water ph to bring it down, will the soil buffer that both in solo and 4 gal container?
 

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
say I have a solo cup and 4 gal container with straight Ocean Forest and my tap comes out around 7.5-8.
If I water without adjusting water ph to bring it down, will the soil buffer that both in solo and 4 gal container?
Your PH will likely remain high in both containers, esp the solo cup, until you establish a thriving microbiome, and even then it might remain higher than you want.. Usually it's not a big issue, but sometimes lockouts can occur.
 

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
Your PH will likely remain high in both containers, esp the solo cup, until you establish a thriving microbiome, and even then it might remain higher than you want.. Usually it's not a big issue, but sometimes lockouts can occur.
This makes sense because I've tried watering without adjusting the ph and sooner or later always ran into issues.
Also, I suspected that smaller containers would not be as effective at buffering than much larger ones.
Thanks for the confirmation.
 

GlueSniffer

Active Member
I saw Logan Lab M3 test results from 2 separate bags of FFOF and one of Happy Frog. Not sure it will help but I think the info is relevant to the discussion.

One bag of OF was 5.6pH, the other was 6.6, and Happy Frog was 6.3.

OF had total exchange capacities of 12.2 and 9.3 Means one had 33% more cations in the mix than the other.
HF had total exchange capacity of 13.7. Means it has a reserve of cations that is just as large or larger than either bag of OF.
This doesn't include anions like Nitrate and doesn't take into account how many of those cations dissociate in solution when watering.

OF1 base saturation 49% Calcium, 15% Magnesium, 2.5% Potassium, 0.8% Sodium
OF2 base saturation 68% Calcium, 18% Magnesium, 3% Potassium, 1% Sodium
HF base saturation 62% Calcium, 20% Magnesium, 2% Potassium, 0.7% Sodium

Each had about...

Sulfur 215 to 320ppm
P2O5 234 to 379 lbs per acre
Calcium 2500 to 3750 lbs per acre
Mag 275 to 400 lbs per acre
Potassium 300 to 425 lbs per acre
Sodium 41 to 43 lbs per acre

Boron 0.43 to 0.55 ppm
Iron 200 to 275 ppm
Manganese 10-11 ppm
Copper 0.7 to 1.2 ppm
Zinc 2.0 to 3.2 ppm
 
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Eastownclan

Well-Known Member
FFOF on water only .... Ph at 6.5 - 6.7 ( FFOF is prebuffered at 6.3 ) .... some strains find it a bit hot but still will acclimate as long as you don’t add more Nutes on top. Nitro will still be used thru stretch and preflower for “ stretch “ and final setup. That minor burn is tolerable as you noticed the stems and stalk are green and healthy. FFOF use is commonly overthought when used.

FFOF makes a good bottom “ super “ soil base in containers with a milder mix on top ( Kellogg’s , dr. earth , Black Magic , Happy Frog , EB Stone or similar “ veg garden “ mixes ..... regional batches do differ from time to time . But this soil does all my initial feeding on ph water only for 6 weeks before a top dress. Nitrogen is still needed for proper photosynthesis during grow. After week 2 of actual flower , plant will move to more PK use. FFOF can be steeped in cheesecloth bags for soil teas too.

The only MOD to FFOF I do is add much more perlite , scoop of myco or 2 into main bag , and EWC ..... nothing else.
For flower ... I add kelp to water instead of synth boosters.

No bullshit flushing at end. Just regular water as usual.

View attachment 4481268View attachment 4481269View attachment 4481270
I know this is an old comment, but this is good info. I was wondering what kelp product do you add to your water in flower and how much do you add?
 

Indy73

Active Member
Are you sure they weren't auto flowering seeds? It looks it if you are under 20/4 all along.

I blend FF Happy Frog and Ocean Harvest.....probably about 60% Happy Frog, 40% Ocean Harvest....adding 2 cups of perlite and 1 cup of extra worm castings to each 5 gallon smart pot.
Do u have to feed n if so at what point do u feed
 

Three Berries

Well-Known Member
I mix the local limestone in with my FF soil. I really don't think you could use too much. It's a pH buffer, not base or acid and will try and maintain the pH around 7 or so. I probably put a pint pf pea gravel in the 3 gallons of soil. Same limestone makes my water hard, it's pH is 7.4
 
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