...lime doesn't go straight to work....odds are, you've already harvested your crop before it starts working.
...FFOF is only good for a few weeks, then you must supplement.....I personally like to either top layer with EWC, or an all out transplant at that time....for each his own, eh?
How long does it take for lime to work?
Since water is required for lime to react with the soil, effects of a lime application will be slower in a dry soil. It often takes a year or more before a response can be measured even under perfect conditions. However, a response may be observed within weeks of the application when soil pH is extremely low. It is important to apply lime immediately after the growing season or crop removal to allow lime to react, correcting soil pH before the next growing season.
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http://www.smilinggardener.com/organic-soil-management/dolomite-lime
my problem with agricultural sources (such as the samuel roberts noble foundation) is that they are almost always referring to agricultural limestone, which i hope no one is using in their indoor gardens. the particles are large and it is known to take forever to break down. liquid lime (not to be confused with hydrated lime, stay away from that mess) goes to work immediately, and is derived from dolomite. the general consensus for pulverized (powdered) dolomite is that it takes between 3 and 6 months to be "fully" active. it's important to note that this does not mean that it's doing "nothing" in the meantime. the thing to pay attention to with the lime is the fineness of the mesh it was screened through. the finer the mesh, the quicker it will do its thing.
also, there seems to be some strong evidence that pre mixing the lime into the soil is a lot more effective than tilling it in as a corrective measure, which is how agricultural types measure effectiveness. unfortunately i don't have any links because i read about it in one of those paper thingys and can't find a whole lot on it on the net. however, it stands to reason that farming corn or grass outdoors in the rain and growing annuals indoors with pots and tap water require different products to keep the soil in check.
i can say that i have undoubtedly corrected lockout issues using a combination of liquid lime and tilled in powdered lime and had growth resume in less than 2 weeks. whether this is due to the lime's reaction with my soil or the reaction to my water remains unknown, but the results are clear. there are plenty of stories on here of people who never used lime until they moved someplace else and realized that something had changed and it wasn't their skills. i worship the stuff.
the link you provided has a lot of good info but it was more geared toward avoiding the acidity problems by going organic, and that's just not in the cards for me (although i have been toying with the idea of making my own type super soil using granulated organic fertilizers, and perhaps being able to feed just water the whole cycle, but subcool's stuff is too fancy for my tiny apartment. i'm working on it). i disagree that lime is simply a "tremendous marketing job". and unlike the crops referenced in the article, cannabis is has an almost insatiable appitite for magnesium. i actually think more people bring issues on themselves by using calmag products in soil than people creating issues with lime, because as i pointed out before, lime is hard to overdo.
again, i'm not saying it's necessarily needed by everyone, but for a lot of us, it's not optional.
edit: wow sorry for the book. i didn't realize how long winded that was
