Ganjaluvrs Drying & Curing Broken Down into Understandable English

mensabarbie

Active Member
Its about feel. Do you feel they need to dry or do you feel you need to draw moisture out. Use your judgment. No one can teach feel or judgment.
 

TripleMindedGee5150

Well-Known Member
Did a dick move and my buds got Fuckin mold. I'm pretty upset. Last time I over dried , this time either I under dried (outer felt really dry and stem did a sharp crease when bent )or didn't take enough steps in burping. I have one stem that I pulled a week ago and have it in another jar. I've been smoking on it. So it burps quite often. Feels dry unless the sun hits it and the jar sweats .



Anyway this is my Damn dick move pictures. I'm going to try this method in OP next time . I think it was the burping. I didn't take precautionary measures as I went along. Stinks like old mop with ammonia and Def looks way frostier than before. Also the yellow balls in there now..... Fml
1401757960781.jpg

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new jack

Active Member
Yup, people make things harder then they really are sometimes... even I myself am guilty of this. It happens! But.. what I have done for everyone.. is broken down the drying and curing process.. to where even the NOOBS can understand how to properly dry.. and cure their pride and loved harvest.

Alright, as for drying... this is probably the easy part compared to the curing process.. but again.. even curing isn't that difficult.

On the day of your harvest... you need to do the following: Hang your buds up.. with some type of string/thread or even fishing line will work. Hang them up.. and ONLY let them dry.. until ONLY the outer sides of the buds feel dry.. AND.. the stem BENDS (might even crack some and thats okay) but doesn't BREAK. (if the stem breaks in two when bent.. you have "over dried" the buds.. or in other words.. you have let out too much if not all of the buds moisture content.. and its pretty much too late now.. it can be fixed.. but its a pain in the ass.. and no matter if it gets fixed or not.. the final product will NOT taste/smell/smoke like it would have if done properly.)

You don't want to wait until the stem breaks. Why? well, because by this time.. you have waited too long.. and the buds water content has dropped way to low in percentage by this time (possible to 0%). When air drying.. you want to wait until the outer part of the bud feels dry.. and the stem bends.. but doesn't break. Then you can start your curing.

Once the outer side of the buds are dry.. and the stems BEND but doesn't BREAK into two pieces.. this is the optimal time to start the "curing process".

Now, let me explain some things to everyone.

you need to be careful with what information you chose to read and follow. Why? Because the internet is filled with all kinds of information.. good and bad.. not only good and bad.. but some of it is correct.. but.. some of it is also incorrect. In fact, 70% of the material you read on the internet about growing cannabis.. is actually incorrect. Why so much incorrect info? Well, its sad to say.. but 70% of the information (articles) you read about growing cannabis.. is incorrect because its mostly written by young immature teenagers that "think" they know it all.. but in fact they don't know what they're talking about. It's true! If you want some correct and GOOD information on growing.. check out hightimes magazine or just simply go and buy yourself a few books on growing... that way you know the information is at least %99 if not %100 correct because its generally written by experts (people that actually KNOW what the hell they're talking about).


The curing process runs on the same principles as your plants light cycles. You cure in cycles.. once the outer edges of the bud is dry.. and the stem bends but doesn't break.. and you have put your buds into your jars and have the lids on.. wait 12 hours until you open the lids of the jars. During this 12 hours.. the moisture from inside the middle of the buds has slowly made its way (evaporated) out of the bud.. but has no way to escape because the lids are still on the jars thus trapping in all that moisture. The evaporating moisture also makes a rise in the humidity inside the jars.. and since its still trapped inside the jars.. it rehydrates the buds to a certain point. Finally, after the first 12 hours of having the lids on.. take the lids off. The buds should feel a little damp again (but not too wet.. if they feel like a fresh harvested bud.. then you need to air dry them for a few more days.. also if they didn't re-hydrate then you've let them air dry too long.) After inspecting the buds to make sure they got a little re-hydrated from being in the jar for 12 hours.. just leave the lid(s) off of your jar(s) for a good 2 to 4 hours to let the fresh moisture on the buds evaporate.. then put the lids back on.. and repeat the cycle. See how its kinda like the light cycle? Like that one would be 12hrs/2hrs or 12hrs/4hrs. See how that works now?

Each time you put the lid on.. the humidity inside the jar(s) will slowly evaporate the moisture from inside the middle of the bud as well as the stem thats inside the middle of the bud... thus raising the humidity level inside the jar like I said before... then each time you take the lid off.. your letting that new evaporated moisture from the middle of the bud.. and the stem thats in the middle of the bud.. evaporate. So, see.. each cycle of lid on/lid off which is one complete cycle.. your taking out the moisture bit by bit.. from inside the middle of the bud (and the stem thats inside the middle of the bud).

Now.. you don't want to just keep on repeating cycles until the buds are 100% dry. You want to leave around 10% to 15% water content inside the middle of the buds.. once they get to around that level of water content.. you can then put them back into their jar(s) and store them without having to worry about "burping" the jars. Also, at this point.. the buds are not only smokable.. but they will smell and taste like they should!

There ya go.. hopefully I have broken this down so that the ones that don't understand.. now understand. :wink: (if you still don't get it, you probably never will.. and IMO.. you should change professions... because growing isn't for you)

peace..

written and edited by: ganjaluvr 10/01/2010
 

jojodancer10

Well-Known Member
I dry my buds 4-6 days hanging then i trim them.my next step is to jar them.when they are in the jar i check the rh making sure its between 65-60% rh.once they are at that % i dont burp them anymore.after 8 weeks cure i open my jar and my buds smell stail.i been having this problem for a while.the buds smell great when cracked open but stail on the outside of the buds.could this be due to none burping?
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
the cure works by keeping the plant alive and maintaining gass transfer,which requires over a certain amount of moisture to function properly. it then dies.
it's broken down through this respiration and hydrolysis, which a dead plant that's remoistened simply won't perform. The trichomes just need oxygen (and I mean obviously some heat, can't cure in the freezer).
If using boveda packs etc you still have to burp every now and again.
The hay smell is it breaking down anaerobically, typically means its still too wet or dryed without enough air flow. you may want to up the rh where you dry.sometimes the hay smell won't come until its jarred, same reason and mold may be on the way.
My 2¢
 

mr ???

Member
Hi. this is my first time posting a reply. hope im doing it right. ive been told the drying process is VERY smelly. im wondering if anyone with REAL experience can tell me just how smelly the process is ?? Im planning on doing it under a house in a ventilated rubbermaid storage container because of this reason. is it possible to do it inside my house?? I live with someone who is "cool" with my smoking, but doesnt know about the grow. probably doesnt know what it smells like either. they're "square", i guess is best way to put it.....any feedback is much
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
I don't run carbon filters or anything. My plants stink when they get too hot or I bump into them. So helping out those volatile compounds or rupturing the waxy head holding them back.

With that said. I trim at night, right now actually. Yes it stinks, even low odor strains.. pretty much guaranteed to smell it outside your front door from my experience
I like to think I'm fairly experienced..
 

sincitygrowJB

Active Member
So for someone like me that lives in the desert hot as hell what would be the best way for me to dry & cure my buds? Last harvest my bud hung dry they where done in 3days what can I do to slow this fast dry down a little? Last time I hung plants upside down with a fan on the floor and the plant was done in 3 days one plants was to dam dry so any help welcome thanks!!!
 

NyQuilkush318

Well-Known Member
Hey bro don't mean to hijack but i was trying to see if i over dry I put buds in paper bag Brown after i hung dry for 4days left bag opened in the next day close bag with humidity meter n bag let sit for few hours check humidity it was 55rh so did I over dry an I smoked a joint but it taste dry so should I cure more for taste n am putting them in glass jars today
 

gazja420

Active Member
No point in curing for months or years like some people say. Pick up some horticulture or biology books to learn about that. As for strength, curing does nothing.
 
20 yrs growing. Cure in 1/2 gallon mason jars. I like to SMOKE. Therefore when I cure I'm looking for smokeability. Herbs cured for joints (popcorn and dank trim) are dried more, bongloads a little less dry, but always brought below 70% RH as measured with an hygrometer. 70%RH at 70 degrees F is a generally accepted mold threshold. Parameters below 70/70 greatly reduce environmental conditions that allow or encourage mold to grow.

The CURE:

First of all, it seems obvious but, you must know the RH of your drying room or space and it must be below 65% RH and I recommend a bit of air movement as well.

Removing the buds from the stems just before they become brittle and easy to snap is where I like to start. A 1/4 or 1/2 oz. is plenty for a sample. Snip buds off and put them straight into a mason jar and test the RelativeHumidity inside the jar (I use a HYGROLID. Hygrolid.com $17.00, amazon.com $20.00) hoping for around 70%RH.

If the RH is well above 70% like 75-80% I will but them in a brown paper bag in my drying room and give them some space inside the bag, not more than a single layer of buds. The amount of time they spend in the bag depends on the RH of your drying room. In a room at 60-65%RH with air circulation, a day or to will dry the buds to a good point for curing.

Once your bud sample measures below 70%RH in a mason jar you are curing. I like 70% because there is enough moisture left in the buds so they aren't brittle. If you leave some room in the top of the jar you can roll the buds around each day without creating shake or cracking off trichomes which also helps compress the buds slightly and circulate the bottom buds to the top of the jar.

Keep the jar open for 12-24 hours in the drying room, shake it up a bit and put on Hygrolid for 6-12 hours. It should still read pretty close to 70%RH. Repeat the process in 12 hr cycles, for example check once when you get up and again when you go down. If RH is above 65%, roll the buds around in the jar and leave the lid off for 12-24 more hours, then on again. After a few cycles the RH will creep down and now look for a sustained RH of 65%. 65% is the wettest I ever finish. 60% is my mark for joint material.

IMPORTANT. When curing in mason jars be aware of bud density and size. Huge colas can read 60%RH in a jar a day after you've sealed them and be close to 80%RH in a week if left unopened. This is because they have larger denser stems that slowly release moisture from the deepest interior of a massive bud. Loose fluffy popcorn and shake, on the other hand, may stay as dry as it is on the first measurement. I recommend getting a stable RH of 65% or below for several days with small nugs and at least a week for large dense buds, sometimes even longer to be safe. Hate to find mold creeping up the stem of the biggest dong you've ever produced.

Once you have successfully stabilized the RH at your chosen % inside the jar for a week or more you can safely seal and store the jar for longer term curing and not need to burp them at all.

I prefer cured bud. I really don't consider bud cured unless its been a few months. I have cured QPs for over a year without opening the lid. When I opened the lids, they blew off like a champagne corks in a startling explosion of terpenes. Not sure why the pressure built up so much but it was fucking cool and the herb was better than ever.

I grow in the Pacific Northwest so overdrying is generally not an issue but the same principles apply.

If this has all been said earlier in this thread, I apologize for the the redundancy, but it sounds like I'm not the only one who just read the first and last pages but skipped the middle.

Hope someone finds this info useful.
 

kupihea

Well-Known Member
Thank you for your easily understood post. I think you have answered my question and still, I want to be sure. I live in a place where RH is most always in the upper 70's or 80's. We have dependable trade winds so the house says dry just by letting air flow through. So it seems like as long as the stems bend without breaking I will be ok as long as the outsides are dry. The outer portions might not feel crispy and it seems like I am less less likely to over drying. I do have a dehumidifier with adjustable RH I could use. I would prefer to just let them hang in the house long enough. Do you think I need to use the dehumidifier should in a closed room?
 
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