licoricetree
Well-Known Member
And they probably use the internet to find research facilities and general info on what is popular in the led crowd. Thats why hes all about them cree models
In a case like this though, it would almost certainly rely on a faulty piece from a particular supplier, which you would be able to hold that supplier accountable regardless of whether or not you had an "led professional" design it.In a large production scale if something goes wrong then it affect all the product that were released with it. IE samsung note 7--what was that like a 3.2 billion dollar loss
Ya Samsung just took the loss and didn't sue. companies like that though i believe have insurance to cover this type of stuff possiblyIn a case like this though, it would almost certainly rely on a faulty piece from a particular supplier, which you would be able to hold that supplier accountable regardless of whether or not you had an "led professional" design it.
Idk man. Stupid people are the majority. I'm positive mars hydro and shit king and most amazon china panels take the heap of led sales. Hell people still think Clinton will be the president......so it's easy to believe what you read on led websites.Rather than following the crowd I would recommend being innovative and separating yourself from the pack. Margins on these things are not going to be great as competition heats up and the tech is currently advancing so fast that by the time you've sunk your money into it, someone else is coming out with a more efficient or cheaper design.
CLU048-1212Thanks for your suggestion, the reason we don't use 3590 is it's really expensive and we need bigger heat sinks to solve the heat dissipation
People dont like to spend money when cheaper options are available, shocking. lolIdk man. Stupid people are the majority. I'm positive mars hydro and shit king and most amazon china panels take the heap of led sales. Hell people still think Clinton will be the president......so it's easy to believe what you read on led websites.
This is why I'm shocked there's not lawyers doing class action against all of these false advertising companies. I hope trump puts some real restrictions on china and all of the shit they produce and sell to Americans.People dont like to spend money when cheaper options are available, shocking. lol
But this is why marketing is so very important.
LOL, expecting a salesman who won an election using a steady stream of hyperboles to be against this type of shit??? pleeeeeaaase.This is why I'm shocked there's not lawyers doing class action against all of these false advertising companies. I hope trump puts some real restrictions on china and all of the shit they produce and sell to Americans.
VERO29C 72V@1050ma 3500k 90CRIhello everyone, now we're developing our new line products, and we need to do some market research and gather suggestion to confirm the final design, so it would be appreciated if you would like to share any idea, or what kind of led grow lights you're looking for? what brand of chips you prefer? product size? long bar or panel? power consumption? around 400w or 600w or 1000w? veg/bloom switchable or just full spectrum? optics angle? lighting coverage? any idea is welcome, let's just discuss...or you can email us to [email protected]
This is why I'm shocked there's not lawyers doing class action against all of these false advertising companies.
The chip of monos on our light is Bridgelux, it's one of the most cost effective led chips, good performance and good price, it's always available on our lightsWhats the logic behind not using bridgelux chips? Cheaper, better performing and reputable... I doubt you'll get much praise here for using older, less efficient chips simply to save a buck.
Ok so you're going for best bang for the buck market. That's great. Cob lights are generally more than typical starting growers are willing to invest.The chip of monos on our light is Bridgelux, it's one of the most cost effective led chips, good performance and good price, it's always available on our lights
In the past few years, people are not good knowledgable about led grow lighting, the market is really chaotic, now with help and education of forums, growers become more and more professional, so the market will be better and more and more good products will show upWell all just want a product out that actually performes equal or close to the diy build here in the forums. The led market is to jaded to have yet another light the says one thing but significantly unperformes and cost double the amount as a diy build. It has been the bane of the led market and created the myth of led not being able to achieve yield and quality as hps.
It's always helpful to discuss with end users about the design of products,even if they can't give you much technical support, but they use the light and know if the light is good or bad during use, they want to improve the light for their plants, so they must have some thought which is very valuable for us, that's what we need, and some hobbyists could share really professional information and good ideas, that helps a lot for both of us in the forumMy first suggestion would be to not get suggestions from an internet forum. The majority of responses will just be repeated rhetoric of the day and often skewed towards one set of technology or vendor over another.
You are better off getting an LED designer to help since they actually have an education in light and can work within the specifications you give them.
Lastly, if you are a manufacturer and can do large volumes (eg. greater than 1k/month) you don't need to go with brand name chips like every small scale DiY kits and part vendor does. With those volumes you can get chips far cheaper than the deepest brand name discounts and as a result put down more of those chips resulting in more light output at less power. The only thing that matters is light output, don't stray away from that.
Now if you are just small scale consider yourself as chum in the water right now.
I'd be happy to add one of your lights to my testing and critique it.It's always helpful to discuss with end users about the design of products,even if they can't give you much technical support, but they use the light and know if the light is good or bad during use, they want to improve the light for their plants, so they must have some thought which is very valuable for us, that's what we need, and some hobbyists could share really professional information and good ideas, that helps a lot for both of us in the forum
Totally right!It would honestly be refreshing to see a maker not dribbling bs about their unit's actual power use. I don't care what it's supposed to replace. Just tell me what the wall draw is. And give me accurate ppfd figures.
No bs. Just facts.
well said, thanksYou should totally change the design.
Use more and better COB's like the Citizen CLU048-1212C4 in 3,000°k and 5,000°K in a 2: 1 ratio and use blue and red/deep red/far red only to supplement the COB spectrum.
If you have not used cheap Epistar LEDs so far, a design change in this direction will reduce upfront-costs and reduce error sources!
The 1212C4 is really a great and efficient COB and you will get it in higher amounts for sure for less than 8-9$. It outperformes the CXA2540 easily and maybe also the CXB3070 depending from used binnings.
There is no reason to drive so many monocromatics unless you use cheap chinese diodes, but in this case your company will anyway fail in the near future, unless you change your mind and start building high quality products "with HQ diodes".
Very helpful , thank youCLU048-1212
CLU048-1818
Vero 29 Gen 7
Luminus CXM 22
All cheaper than CXB3590 and they all either match it or beat across the board at any given wattage.
Skip monos. Blue LED lights with a white phosphor are currently the best option for turning electricity into plant food. The only case I'd personally consider using anything besides white light is if I wanted to add Far Red (730nm) LED's for "abusing" the cyto/cryptochrome function.
3000k 90 CRI = Red, peaks ~630nm.
3000k 80 CRI = Amber, peaks ~600nm.
4000k 80 CRI = Green/Amber/Blue, peaks ~600nm but with more green.
5000 70 CRI = Blue, Green/Amber.
6500k 70 CRI = Blue.