Germinating in soil - And a transplant.

I've got two Mephisto autos sitting in some soil, and I need some advice. I followed the guide here:

I see now that a lot of people say to just start autos directly in their destination pot as opposed to a transplant, but it's too late now.

I have each in its own solo cup. 80% espoma organic potting soil, 20% organic perilite. Cut holes in the cup, gave the soil mix a good watering (until water trickled out bottom), and then planted my seeds about 1/3" inch down. No soak or paper towel. Covered lightly with same soil. Have not watered since, but it's still a little damp and I have read plenty about the dangers of over watering.

Heat mat maintaining 78 degrees F beneath cups, LED on dimmest setting 18 hours a day and 38" above cup surface. Humidifier is on a humidstat maintaining an average of 62.8% humidity, and temp is averaging 75.0 degrees F.

This is my first grow, so I'm like a kid on Christmas morning checking for sprouts. So far nada, but it's barely been 48 hours. (Planted 2/9)

A couple questions:

1. Anything you would adjust about the above? I wasn't going to fool with the humidifier at this stage, but I'm not doing a dome or anything and wanted to keep things hospitable as possible for the ladies.

2. For those of you who transplant autos: Could you share your wisdom on timing? Mephisto's guide mentions somewhere around 2-2.5 weeks. Is that a good rule of thumb? I have transplanted plants before, so I am not too worried about the process -- but want to make sure I time it right.

Thanks!

Seems like you've got it dialed in olegren. Wet instead of moist was the mistake I made when I used solo's to germ. Light not required until sprout. I just did a side by side germ, using Jiffy's, one with heat mat - 69hr, one without 148hrs. Can't help with transplant as I "transfer" to final pot day after sprout. Don't over water and good growing.

quirk said:

Seems like you've got it dialed in olegren. Wet instead of moist was the mistake I made when I used solo's to germ. Light not required until sprout. I just did a side by side germ, using Jiffy's, one with heat mat - 69hr, one without 148hrs. Can't help with transplant as I "transfer" to final pot day after sprout. Don't over water and good growing.

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@quirk Thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate it. Cool to hear the results of your side by side. I wasn't going to bother with a heat mat at first, but it's really helping me maintain temps -- especially during lights out. I originally planned to stay dark until sprout, but I'm in a cold basement and needed some help keeping things hospitable.

I'm intrigued in regards to your transfer the day after the sprout. I would like to transfer as soon as possible, but I was under the impression there was a higher risk associated with moving earlier. If you don't mind -- Could you share a little about your process? Or are you using a rooter that makes the transfer a lot simpler?

Thanks again!

General rule of thumb I use for transplanting autos is when the leaves go past the edge of the 1L pot. Roots will normally be established enough to help hold the soil together but not be pot bound. It is usually around the 2 - 3 week mark, so pretty much around the time Mephisto recommend.

And avoiding over watering is a great route to go down. It is easy to add a bit of water if they are too dry, it is a nightmare to make soil that is too wet dryer.

I run lots of autos ... you can transplant ( with care ) .
You CAN start in final pot but there is a “ trade off “ .... in a large pot , tap will shoot straight down that deeper medium first instead of
going lateral ( which you want ) . I found it easier and much more productive by starting them in a solo first , however only for a short time no more than 2 weeks or if growing fast. If it rootbounds it will think that all the room it’s got and move to preflower.

With a solo , you make a plug out of it for planting in final pot with side branching beginning to fill cup. A better way to condition it to the medium you will run auto with. Autos work well in 1 gallon , 3 / 5 / 7 .... any larger is a waste as most autos finish around 90 days.
DWC / Hydro / Hempy Buckets ( my fave ) will grow the biggest autos. But bagged mixes will grow ( not Miracle grow ) autos for weeks without additional Nutes needed. Autos hate complicated feeds ( multibottle ) , they just need a feed for 90 days and will never use a hyperloaded feed .... which leads to burns , stunting , stress. It just wants to grow and root as best it can in the very short veg life .

You screw up that initial stage , your yield will suffer or plant will stall. That’s why I let them feed from the host soil on just water and not overwhelm it by dumping unnecessary shit into equation.

Simple lite starter mix in solo ( lightly dampen) small dome for seedling growth ( humidity ) . Temps at least 72° .
You can presoak seed or dig out a center , dampen and bury seed. Leave it alone .



I try to get it to be more root mass than extra unused soil .... I hate waste lol.

Thanks, fellas. I’m gonna leave them be for a bit. I’ll plan to transplant around the 2-3 week mark. I have some 3 gal pots - couple smart and couple solid round ones. Got some FFOF waiting for those.
Might do one of each.

I will keep that leaf measurement in mind, oregano!

Will plan to use the cups as plugs - that’s a cool way to think of it also. Graphic on root activity is very illuminating. Had no idea it could be beneficial beyond preventing stunting from a smaller pot.

great info! thanks
Budzbuddha great photo, opened my eyes

Fabianman said:

great info! thanks
Budzbuddha great photo, opened my eyes

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@Fabianman - Budzbuddha has another excellent thread here with some great overall advice for a simple AF grow: https://www.rollitup.org/t/ffof-fox-farms-ocean-forest-made-simple-autoflower.996511/