Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks

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Enigma

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just a quik ? i have a 400 watt lamp with a switchable ballast. i use it with the hps on my plants right now, no reason jus didnt care to use the MH bulbs. im actually experiencing pretty close internodes, about 1" range(plants from seed) but my stems to be cut look very good about 2.5-3.5 mm and theyll get bigger by cutting time. doesnt bother me or anything but they would be closer with the MH bulb?

also with all these plants i have they are in dirt as of now, im chopping clones off all of them to start the grow in full swing. after i do this the plants will recover well with plenty off flowering stems yes?(plants goin to another op, dirt...) would the MH be a benifit for this situation(getting more stems closer together)? or theyll reproduce as i need pretty much?
'Blue' light will focus more on the production of leaves than stems. 'Red' light will focus more on the production of stems than leaves. A mixture of both would be ideal.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
im actually experiencing pretty close internodes

[...]

they would be closer with the MH bulb?
Most likely. Warmer room temps (above ~26-27C) will also cause some elongation.

also with all these plants i have they are in dirt as of now, im chopping clones off all of them to start the grow in full swing. after i do this the plants will recover well with plenty off flowering stems yes?(plants goin to another op, dirt...) would the MH be a benifit for this situation(getting more stems closer together)? or theyll reproduce as i need pretty much?
The main reason I've stuck with HPS for vegging is because it yields long internodes which suits my style of cloning. If you are later going to flower a plant you are now vegging, you probably will want to veg it under MH.

hey Al do you use a sulfur burner?
No, but I'm going to buy one on my next trip to the whse. As temps are tailing off with the end of summer, I'm noticing a bit more powdery mildew than usual and need to do something to slow it down.

For the uninitiated, sulfur 'burners' don't really burn sulfur, but rather evaporate it. The sulfur settles on leaf surfaces and makes them inhospitable to PM spores trying to colonise them.

A mixture of both would be ideal.
I disagree. While the reddish or bluish spectrum will emphasise one character or another, the plant doesn't need the full spectrum at any given point in growth. A lamp which is producing light that the plant doesn't need or can't use is just wasting money. You'll basically want to influence the characters in one direction or the other, either toward short or long internodal distances depending on how you grow.

The clones taken from mother plants vegged under MH tended to yield shorter budstalks (by about 1/3 overall) by harvest time than clones taken from mums vegging under HPS. In my case, that lowered the yield accordingly.



As you can see from this pic, a clone from an HPS raised plant will fill the length of the budstalk with buds. Tip burn caused by a combination of excessive heat and a little too heavy dosage on the PK13-14.



The above budstalk being manicured. This one will yield about an oz when dry.



A BIG heaping handful from the above stalk going into the dryer.
 

bigal10

Active Member
thats what I am talking about amazing updated pics. Ok, begining to gather all the equipment for my grow, should I go with the following instead of the batwings? I will be setting up a similar grow by the way?

 

Enigma

Well-Known Member
thats what I am talking about amazing updated pics. Ok, begining to gather all the equipment for my grow, should I go with the following instead of the batwings? I will be setting up a similar grow by the way?

HTGSupply ftw!!!11!111
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
While manicuring, I came across a plant which I missed pruning.


The plant on the right was not properly pruned for SoG. Normally, the branching on the lower 1/3 of the plant is removed- and here's why.



Note annoying little buds on lower branches. Won't yield much but takes as much time to manicure as the nice solid upper nugs. Fan leaves have been removed in this pic, but while they were on, they weren't doing much but obstructing airflow.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
should I go with the following instead of the batwings?
This pkg would be fine, but you'll want to throw away the reflector on the cooltube & make up a batwing for it. The included ref will be inefficient and won't control light pattern very well.
 

Kaosisglobal

Well-Known Member
Hey Al, can I remove annoying fan leaves in flowering period? I've heard not to touch. I know you are about to harvest. But figure I would ask.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hey Al, can I remove annoying fan leaves in flowering period? I've heard not to touch. I know you are about to harvest. But figure I would ask.
If you have lower fans which are yellowing or just in the way, pull 'em. Preserve the upper fans as much as possible.

Could you think of why only one of my girls are budding 2 weeks in to 12/12??? I have cold temp problems, could that be it?
Yep, cool temps will slow them way down. Cannabis will go dormant at 16C & down. Keep the op as close to 24-26C as you can.
 

bigal10

Active Member
HTGSupply ftw!!!11!111

I dont know what you mean by that Enigma. Al, How thick are your cool tubes are they 6". Ok, I will make a ref that will be sufficient. Do you think I should go with a better ballast such as,
CoolStar Switchable 1000w MH & HPS Ballast?
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
al, you say trim lower fans, but upper save as much as possible.

would cutting in half be better than pulling the whole leaf?
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Al, How thick are your cool tubes are they 6". Ok, I will make a ref that will be sufficient.
Yes, most cooltubes are 150mm dia, though you can get 120mm.

As you well know, aside from being a stoned slacker, I am a cheap bastard. I absolutely hate spending dough that I just don't have to- and doubly hate seeing hydroponics sales ppl get the better of dope growers.

Just get a sheet of aluminum from the hdwe- you'll have a proper batwing ref made up, in no more than 20 mins after you get the stuff home.

Do you think I should go with a better ballast such as,
CoolStar Switchable 1000w MH & HPS Ballast?
bad link, dood- this links to something on your local HDD.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
al, you say trim lower fans, but upper save as much as possible.

would cutting in half be better than pulling the whole leaf?
Sure, if you like, but yellowing lower leaves are spent and can be removed without fear.

I've always been of the (completely unsubstantiable) opinion that fan leaves attached to the mainstem are mainly supporting the construction of the mainstem and once the finishing height is attained (by wk 4 in a SoG), they are not doing much. I let them be for the most part but remove obviously spent fans.

If you're up for some experimentation, you can always try removing all fans from several plants and letting them be on some others. Important to have a greater sample quantity than 1 per method being compared when doing stuff like this.
 

Kaosisglobal

Well-Known Member
Very nice, I'll be cutting my spent leaves soon. I still don't have a closet, doing it out right in the room. Under a shelf that the light is attached to. My widow girl that bloomed is almost touching the shelf, past the shelf, but not touching light (off to side). The others still grew, about as tall in bushes looking great, just still veg for the most part. I have seen the beginning to hairs, but it's like 2 weeks behind.
 

Maccabee

Well-Known Member
no thats not a link to my hydro store, just found it on the web.
That URL starts with file:// -- so it isn't on the web, it's on your hard drive. You're hot-linking to the copy of the image cached in your IE temp directory. It will appear to work on your machine, until Windows empties the browser cache, but it won't work for anyone else.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
A ballast is a ballast is a ballast. They are current limiters. Does not matter whether they are inductive/magnetic or electronic, sometimes called 'digital.' The conductivity of the lamp tube is the main determinant of how much power will be dissipated in the lamp tube.

Lamp tubes are designed to dissipate a certain amount of power. If a ballast permits more power to pass than the lamp is rated for, the lamp's lifetime will be shortened.

If a ballast maker claims greater luminous output from a given power rated lamp, the only way to achieve that is by the ballast not limiting current low enough, allowing excessive power to be dissipated in the lamp, shortening the lamp tube's service life. There's no free lunch!

One maker's claim I can debunk right now is Lumatek's assertion that their electronic ballasts increase luminous output by 30%. I have compared a Lumatek 600 to a standard Chinese-made magnetic 600 ballast, using a lux meter, an AC ammeter and a good quality 600HPS tube. The luminous intensity with either ballast was close to identical (within 3%) but the Lumatek shaved 55W off the total power draw from the mains and ran much cooler than the magnetic.

If you can't put your ballast outside your op's airmass, the electronic ballast may be for you... at 4-5x the cost of a standard magnetic!

However, there's simply no contest when it comes to long-term reliability. At the end of the day, it's a lot easier to break a semiconductor junction in a high power circuit than it is to break a coil of copper wire on an iron core.

I have magnetic ballasts on the order of 10 years old in daily service. If a Lumatek successfully lives out its 5 year warranty, it's doing exceptionally well.
 

bigal10

Active Member
Know what an HDD is? Hate to sound stupid but no please elaborate. If there is something I should change on my comp let me know. Another thing that I am curious about is I have been getting updated emails about this thread. What can I do to stop that? Do I need to change my settings etc....:confused:
 
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