Glossy / yellow/ purple leafs

J

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
Hey y’all
I’m growing in coco coir with perlite mix
For nutes I use Athena
I’m currently week 4 of flower
Growing under Luxx 1000w de lights
Light distance is about 3 feet
Top leaves turning glossy/ yellow/ purple
Strain is mimosa
I feed at 2.5 ec run of is 2.7 ec
Ph5.8-5.9 run off 5.9-6.0
Any ideas what my problem is ?
 

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Tracker

Tracker

Well-Known Member
I've never grown Mimosa, but maybe you're a little high on the nutrient levels, could be causing antagonistic lockout. In your pics, I don't see what I usually think is nute burn, but it could be something to think about. Have you grown Mimosa before? Do you know what to expect from it usually? Which Athena line are you using? Does it lack anything? Are you supplementing with anything it already has? When's the last time you calibrated your EC meter? What conversion scale should you use for it? When's the last time you calibrated your pH meter?
 
J

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
Tracker said:
I've never grown Mimosa, but maybe you're a little high on the nutrient levels, could be causing antagonistic lockout. In your pics, I don't see what I usually think is nute burn, but it could be something to think about. Have you grown Mimosa before? Do you know what to expect from it usually? Which Athena line are you using? Does it lack anything? Are you supplementing with anything it already has? When's the last time you calibrated your EC meter? What conversion scale should you use for it? When's the last time you calibrated your pH meter?
Click to expand...
i have grown mimosa before but it was a different pheno first time running this pheno

I was suspecting nute burn or light intensity but I have another row of a different strain that’s very healthy same nutes same dosages

only supplemqnt I give other then there base is
Power si And Cal mag
I use there blended line

I didn’t know you can calibrate the ec
My ph i calibrate every time the 7 and 4 disappear on my my blue lab combo meter
 
J

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
I should’ve mentioned this but my temps day/night are 83/70
Rh high low 65/55
Room gets c02 by the way
 
Tracker

Tracker

Well-Known Member
I use a pen for TDS in units of PPM, not EC, but I always try to be around 1000 PPM for soil, aero, and NFT hydro. Based on the conversion chart below, your EC indicates a much higher TDS than I use. It's quite possible that it's salt buildup or antagonistic lockout.

EC_PPM_Conversion_chart.jpg
 
Tracker

Tracker

Well-Known Member
Jacke30 said:
I should’ve mentioned this but my temps day/night are 83/70
Rh high low 65/55
Room gets c02 by the way
Click to expand...
I've never run CO2. My understanding is that you can feed the plants harder, but based on the chart, it seems a little high on the feeding strength.
 
Tracker

Tracker

Well-Known Member
I've had some phenos that were finicky about their feed. I had to dial back the strength on their feedings. But their symptoms looked like the typical tip burn and/or leaves beginning to claw. I lowered the dosage on their nutrients to half strength for a few feedings and then dialed it back up to about 75% of the level where they were showing symptoms.
 
Tracker

Tracker

Well-Known Member
Jacke30 said:
i have grown mimosa before but it was a different pheno first time running this pheno

I was suspecting nute burn or light intensity but I have another row of a different strain that’s very healthy same nutes same dosages

only supplemqnt I give other then there base is
Power si And Cal mag
I use there blended line

I didn’t know you can calibrate the ec
My ph i calibrate every time the 7 and 4 disappear on my my blue lab combo meter
Click to expand...
Do a web search for how to calibrate an EC TDS meter and you'll see some useful results.
 
J

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
Tracker said:
I've had some phenos that were finicky about their feed. I had to dial back the strength on their feedings. But their symptoms looked like the typical tip burn and/or leaves beginning to claw. I lowered the dosage on their nutrients to half strength for a few feedings and then dialed it back up to about 75% of the level where they were showing symptoms.
Click to expand...
I’ll back off on the nutes and lower my lights to about 850watts and keep an eye on them
Just noticed some plants that are getting less light don’t show any signs of leaf problems
 
Tracker

Tracker

Well-Known Member
I've also had plants with leaves that change color quite a bit late in flower. This one had about one week left when the pic was taken. You can see the fan leaves on the upper kolas changed color quite a bit. They started changing at around 5 to 6 weeks into flower.

IMG_20201014_180459.jpg
 
J

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
I’ve had flower change color as well it’s just what happening now doesn’t look normal
The shiny leafs is what made me concerned
Tracker said:
I've also had plants with leaves that change color quite a bit late in flower. This one had about one week left when the pic was taken. You can see the fan leaves on the upper kolas changed color quite a bit. They started changing at around 5 to 6 weeks into flower.

View attachment 4869408
Click to expand...
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
Back off the N part of your food,raising lights or turn down like you did should help.Good runoff so your not getting build up.
Id think its mostly the lights,some just dont like it.Any red stems?
 
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