Goin Loco, First Colorado Medical Grow, Lots of Learnin
- Thread starter riddleme
- Start date
jumboSWISHER
Well-Known Member
hell yea man, cant wait to see what u can do with some powerful lights =)
n were all waiting ta hear about the experiment lol
n were all waiting ta hear about the experiment lol
Zer0Ry0k0
Active Member
crap, leavin me on a cliff hanger like that!
I just finished reading this thread, nice.. no... Awesome work with the single CFL and the blue ring for the bottom. Those buds are looking mighty tasty. And props/thanks for getting the new digicam, the first couple sets were... blurry, but now they are looking just brilliant. =D
I have been working on finishing my flowering room and touch-ups with the cloning closet I have going. I just bought a gallon of 29% h2o2 (they were out of the 35%) and while reading online about diluting the h2o2 to be used to clean my rDWC system I came across a bit of information as to why h2o2 is actually good for plants and a lot of ... not speculation, but data with no conclusion yet... where as was mentioned in this thread already, farmers have been adding h2o2 to their fertilizing regimen and are getting some serious results. 25-29% more fruit from zucchini and 80-90% more pod production from soybeans.
Yes the stuff is used to sterilize stuff, bleach things and yes it is used for rocket fuel, but it is also produced in our bodies by our white blood cells to help in dealing with bacteria and virii. I have been reading a lot about h2o2 tonight and am looking forward to testing it out with my plants. I think the main thing to consider is: How concentrated is the h2o2? If you are using 1 tsp of 3% into 1 cup of water you are way below the danger level for root/plant destruction. I will say nothing about the microbe destruction. Any concentration from 3% and down seems to have no negative effect on the plant, the Bill guy uses 8% on his plants. Someone said 10% will kill a plant (just something I read on a forum).
People have mentioned the oxygenating effect it has on the root system and how it promotes nutrient uptake. I can link the good sources I have found so far, but I'm kinda done reading about h2o2 tonight, so I'm sure others have better sources.
http://articles.smashits.com/articles/home-and-garden/90584/the-peroxide-phenomenon-gardening-miracle.html
http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.com/gardening-with-hydrogen-peroxide.html
(I will get a journal up when my flowering room is finished, need to keep at it)
-Zer0
I just finished reading this thread, nice.. no... Awesome work with the single CFL and the blue ring for the bottom. Those buds are looking mighty tasty. And props/thanks for getting the new digicam, the first couple sets were... blurry, but now they are looking just brilliant. =D
I have been working on finishing my flowering room and touch-ups with the cloning closet I have going. I just bought a gallon of 29% h2o2 (they were out of the 35%) and while reading online about diluting the h2o2 to be used to clean my rDWC system I came across a bit of information as to why h2o2 is actually good for plants and a lot of ... not speculation, but data with no conclusion yet... where as was mentioned in this thread already, farmers have been adding h2o2 to their fertilizing regimen and are getting some serious results. 25-29% more fruit from zucchini and 80-90% more pod production from soybeans.
Yes the stuff is used to sterilize stuff, bleach things and yes it is used for rocket fuel, but it is also produced in our bodies by our white blood cells to help in dealing with bacteria and virii. I have been reading a lot about h2o2 tonight and am looking forward to testing it out with my plants. I think the main thing to consider is: How concentrated is the h2o2? If you are using 1 tsp of 3% into 1 cup of water you are way below the danger level for root/plant destruction. I will say nothing about the microbe destruction. Any concentration from 3% and down seems to have no negative effect on the plant, the Bill guy uses 8% on his plants. Someone said 10% will kill a plant (just something I read on a forum).
People have mentioned the oxygenating effect it has on the root system and how it promotes nutrient uptake. I can link the good sources I have found so far, but I'm kinda done reading about h2o2 tonight, so I'm sure others have better sources.
http://articles.smashits.com/articles/home-and-garden/90584/the-peroxide-phenomenon-gardening-miracle.html
http://www.using-hydrogen-peroxide.com/gardening-with-hydrogen-peroxide.html
(I will get a journal up when my flowering room is finished, need to keep at it)
-Zer0
bigman4270
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the thread, Lots of good stuff here. Thanks for thee H2O2 info.
Keep em Green!
Big
P.S. Hey Riddle, Got the Mel Franks book yesterday. Already read 80 Pages.lol
riddleme
Well-Known Member
Welcome, all info on H202 is appreciated as we are still experimenting, I actually gave my girl a bath in it yesterday to wash the roots as I am thinking that is what is causing my current def. ??? We'll see how it turns out???
riddleme
Well-Known Member
Isn't that just the best book you ever read about growing MJ?
I know I could not put it down when I got mine.
bigman4270
Well-Known Member
Isn't that just the best book you ever read about growing MJ?
I know I could not put it down when I got mine.
What I like is the way that any first time noobie who reads it has no problem understanding it. Although he is a pro, here does not look down on the closet growers.
I also wanted to ask you about your fert's. If you could only buy one for now and one in a couple weeks, which one would it be? The DynaGro or the Jacks.
Big
riddleme
Well-Known Member
I would have to say Jack's as that is what I actually did, bought the Jack's first and then bought the DynaGro when I noticed a def of Cal (which is not in Jack's)
I still think of the DynaGro as a supplemental food with Jack's being the main course, hope that helps
riddleme
Well-Known Member
riddleme
Well-Known Member
I have to change my advice to all of you, I found the coir pots back when I was in veg and really thought they were great, wait till you see what I found, let me tell the story,,,,,,,,,,,
Matilda was/is dying, a few weeks ago I saw a Cal def and started adding DynaGro, al of you saw it in my journal, then last week I saw a Mag def and added some Dolomite, my thinking was that the plant had used what was in the soil?
None of it worked and she kept declining with leaf necrosis spreading, the latest thing she was telling me was showing up as an N def, with lower leaves yelowing?
I am not one to run to the forum for help I could see what was happening, so I took action, the def's were telling me that she could not get enough nutes out of the soil, even though I was feeding her.
What I knew was that she was wicking water good still so she still had vigor but was having trouble getting nutes, this told me I had either a root problem, a binding problem (stem) or an antagonistic nute problem (one nute blocking out another) This made sense when the first def was Cal then I added Cal and saw a Mag def (to much Cal blocks out Mag).
To eliminate the roots I did a flush with H202 and water the idea here was to cleanse the roots of possible detremental fungus or bacteria, I noticed that the water was draining slowly so I got a shishkabob squewer and airiated the soil till I once again had good drainage. While doing this I noticed a few stabs into the soil gave resistance as I was poking thru the coir pot.
She worked her ass off and wicked the water in a day and a half and I'm thinking she could not do this if there was a root problem, WTF ???
My next thought was I'm feeding her to lightly so I was going to wait till she was almost dry (and drooping) then was going to feed her? As I was laying in bed last night it hit me that she could be having trouble getting roots thru the coir pot. Part of this was the final clue as I was sticking my finger in the soil to test drynes I noticed that I could feel the wall of the coir pot and saw no roots (and I was digging in several inches).
This morning I decided to test my theory and I lifted on her gently by the base of her stem, I was able to pull the coir pot out of the soil and there was hardly any roots coming thru it. I was then able to remove the coir pot and saw that there was only a few small roots that had made thier way into the coir pot, it peeled away easily.
Yes I know this stressed her out, but she was dying and I had no choice, true she would most likely finish with no problem being this close to the end but I did not want to just sit back and watch her die without trying to help her, after all she has been such a trooper!
I transplanted her back in the pot minus the coir pot and fed her with a good mix of nutes to give her a chance to recover? Now I simply wait and watch???
What I learned, was that the coir pot which held my original soil mix with nothing but Happy Frogs had enough nutes (cal/mag) in it to sustain her for 6 weeks (when the cal def showed up). That the Coir pot did NOT allow her to spread her roots out thru it and she became root bound in 7 weeks. Lord knows how much more she could have grown if I had not made this mistake???
The pics show you the leaf failures so you can see what it looks like, for learning I would point out what the different def's look like. the coir pot after I removed it and a bud shot to show you that the buds are still ok and doing well.
I will do everything I can to keep her alive and bring her back and will post her sucesses or failures? This is what learning is all about
Matilda was/is dying, a few weeks ago I saw a Cal def and started adding DynaGro, al of you saw it in my journal, then last week I saw a Mag def and added some Dolomite, my thinking was that the plant had used what was in the soil?
None of it worked and she kept declining with leaf necrosis spreading, the latest thing she was telling me was showing up as an N def, with lower leaves yelowing?
I am not one to run to the forum for help I could see what was happening, so I took action, the def's were telling me that she could not get enough nutes out of the soil, even though I was feeding her.
What I knew was that she was wicking water good still so she still had vigor but was having trouble getting nutes, this told me I had either a root problem, a binding problem (stem) or an antagonistic nute problem (one nute blocking out another) This made sense when the first def was Cal then I added Cal and saw a Mag def (to much Cal blocks out Mag).
To eliminate the roots I did a flush with H202 and water the idea here was to cleanse the roots of possible detremental fungus or bacteria, I noticed that the water was draining slowly so I got a shishkabob squewer and airiated the soil till I once again had good drainage. While doing this I noticed a few stabs into the soil gave resistance as I was poking thru the coir pot.
She worked her ass off and wicked the water in a day and a half and I'm thinking she could not do this if there was a root problem, WTF ???
My next thought was I'm feeding her to lightly so I was going to wait till she was almost dry (and drooping) then was going to feed her? As I was laying in bed last night it hit me that she could be having trouble getting roots thru the coir pot. Part of this was the final clue as I was sticking my finger in the soil to test drynes I noticed that I could feel the wall of the coir pot and saw no roots (and I was digging in several inches).
This morning I decided to test my theory and I lifted on her gently by the base of her stem, I was able to pull the coir pot out of the soil and there was hardly any roots coming thru it. I was then able to remove the coir pot and saw that there was only a few small roots that had made thier way into the coir pot, it peeled away easily.
Yes I know this stressed her out, but she was dying and I had no choice, true she would most likely finish with no problem being this close to the end but I did not want to just sit back and watch her die without trying to help her, after all she has been such a trooper!
I transplanted her back in the pot minus the coir pot and fed her with a good mix of nutes to give her a chance to recover? Now I simply wait and watch???
What I learned, was that the coir pot which held my original soil mix with nothing but Happy Frogs had enough nutes (cal/mag) in it to sustain her for 6 weeks (when the cal def showed up). That the Coir pot did NOT allow her to spread her roots out thru it and she became root bound in 7 weeks. Lord knows how much more she could have grown if I had not made this mistake???
The pics show you the leaf failures so you can see what it looks like, for learning I would point out what the different def's look like. the coir pot after I removed it and a bud shot to show you that the buds are still ok and doing well.
I will do everything I can to keep her alive and bring her back and will post her sucesses or failures? This is what learning is all about
Attachments
riddleme
Well-Known Member
Well due to the problem I was unable to finish this experiment the way I wanted, if she recovers I will finish it
But allow me to share what I have learned so far,,,,,,,,,
I had told you that I was going to experiment with the PH of rain, I made it rain with water that PH'd to 7.8 and it took almost 3 days for her to wick off the water.
I made it rain with water PH'd to 6.8 and it took less than 2 days for her to wick off the water.
I made it rain with water PH'd to 5.8 and it took right at 24 hours to wick off the water.
What I saw here was that the closer to actual rain the PH of water was the faster she wicks off the water.
When I did the 5.8 PH I used lemon juice to bring down the PH (it was what I had) What I intended was to do it again only this time using Apple Cider Vinegar to bring the PH down, since it is said to be better for doing this??? I have not yet been able to do this yet but like I said if she does a comeback after her transplant I will try the cider to see if it works out any better???
Also I want to add a bit of speculation here as to the possible actual benefit of Molasses,,,,,,,
I have noticed that when I add molasses it lowers the PH of water as well and I think that this is the most beneficial part of adding molasses as seen in my experiment lower PH causes faster wicking of water. The fact that molasses does this while adding beneficial nutes is a huge plus IMO
Stay Tuned
But allow me to share what I have learned so far,,,,,,,,,
I had told you that I was going to experiment with the PH of rain, I made it rain with water that PH'd to 7.8 and it took almost 3 days for her to wick off the water.
I made it rain with water PH'd to 6.8 and it took less than 2 days for her to wick off the water.
I made it rain with water PH'd to 5.8 and it took right at 24 hours to wick off the water.
What I saw here was that the closer to actual rain the PH of water was the faster she wicks off the water.
When I did the 5.8 PH I used lemon juice to bring down the PH (it was what I had) What I intended was to do it again only this time using Apple Cider Vinegar to bring the PH down, since it is said to be better for doing this??? I have not yet been able to do this yet but like I said if she does a comeback after her transplant I will try the cider to see if it works out any better???
Also I want to add a bit of speculation here as to the possible actual benefit of Molasses,,,,,,,
I have noticed that when I add molasses it lowers the PH of water as well and I think that this is the most beneficial part of adding molasses as seen in my experiment lower PH causes faster wicking of water. The fact that molasses does this while adding beneficial nutes is a huge plus IMO
Stay Tuned
GrowingfortheGold
New Member
Man aren't coir pots supposed to allow the roots to grow through...I thought that was the whole gimmick.
Some bullshit my friend. Good luck on the rebound.
Some bullshit my friend. Good luck on the rebound.
zoso914
Well-Known Member
Well due to the problem I was unable to finish this experiment the way I wanted, if she recovers I will finish it
But allow me to share what I have learned so far,,,,,,,,,
I had told you that I was going to experiment with the PH of rain, I made it rain with water that PH'd to 7.8 and it took almost 3 days for her to wick off the water.
I made it rain with water PH'd to 6.8 and it took less than 2 days for her to wick off the water.
I made it rain with water PH'd to 5.8 and it took right at 24 hours to wick off the water.
What I saw here was that the closer to actual rain the PH of water was the faster she wicks off the water.
When I did the 5.8 PH I used lemon juice to bring down the PH (it was what I had) What I intended was to do it again only this time using Apple Cider Vinegar to bring the PH down, since it is said to be better for doing this??? I have not yet been able to do this yet but like I said if she does a comeback after her transplant I will try the cider to see if it works out any better???
Also I want to add a bit of speculation here as to the possible actual benefit of Molasses,,,,,,,
I have noticed that when I add molasses it lowers the PH of water as well and I think that this is the most beneficial part of adding molasses as seen in my experiment lower PH causes faster wicking of water. The fact that molasses does this while adding beneficial nutes is a huge plus IMO
Stay Tuned
I must say you are some kind of genius with M.J. and not the pop King. I've learned an outstanding amount of knowledge from you and will definitely boost your roost when I can again REP++but in the meantime MUCH RESPECT.
Peace out,
zoso914
riddleme
Well-Known Member
Yeah that was why I bought em, I will still use em to veg in cause they work realy well I just won't plant em
riddleme
Well-Known Member
but in the meantime MUCH RESPECT.
Peace out,
zoso914
That's why I'm here to share what I learn, like I said want to get it all out of my system,,,,have research overload
riddleme
Well-Known Member
When dry that coir pot was less than 1/8th inch thick, it swelled up like that in the soil with all the waterings. I don't think the brand matters, I will not be planting coir pots from now on!
EdGreyfox
Well-Known Member
Riddle,
Damn, I feel for you man. At least now you've been able to fix the problem, and considering how much care you lavish on her I don't have any doubts she will bounce back from this. Might take her a few days to recover and it might either delay your harvest or decrease your yield by a bit, but considering that she will now have full access to what she needs you may end up being surprised by how well things turn out.
Have you decided what strain(s) you're going to use on the next grow yet? You might have mentiond it, but I must have missed it.
Damn, I feel for you man. At least now you've been able to fix the problem, and considering how much care you lavish on her I don't have any doubts she will bounce back from this. Might take her a few days to recover and it might either delay your harvest or decrease your yield by a bit, but considering that she will now have full access to what she needs you may end up being surprised by how well things turn out.
Have you decided what strain(s) you're going to use on the next grow yet? You might have mentiond it, but I must have missed it.
