I grew out night rider. It’s excellent, both phenotypes I had were vigorous growing. They probably stretched 2 times in flower and went for 70 days. Both phenotypes were super lemon cleaner, chemy fuely goodness. They yielded above average and its potent sativa dominant high. I had bud rot in one main, but it was my fault. I had piss poor air circulation, my circulation fan broke towards the beginning of floweringAnyone run. Night rider, Evergreen, Blizzard bush , or Copper chem outdoors ? If so how did they do ? Specifically pest and or mold resistance.
Both were tied off to a bamboo stake towards the end of flowering. They were very top heavy and responded well to topping.Thanks for the info sir. Did they need any staking.or anything ? Good size plants?
I've been trying to decide what GPS gear I want to run outside this coming season. I'm thinking Nightrider might be it. Your results look fantastic.I grew out night rider. It’s excellent, both phenotypes I had were vigorous growing. They probably stretched 2 times in flower and went for 70 days. Both phenotypes were super lemon cleaner, chemy fuely goodness. They yielded above average and its potent sativa dominant high. I had bud rot in one main, but it was my fault. I had piss poor air circulation, my circulation fan broke towards the beginning of flowering View attachment 4080276View attachment 4080277
* oops missed the outdoor part, mine were grown indoors.
So I've got the sex results on my current grow.
Tomahawk, 4 out 11 are females. 2 plants were absolute stunted runts so I didn't wait for sex.
Hicock Haze, 7 out of 11 are females. No high male count here.
Dream Weaver, 6 out of 11 are females.
Guard Dawg x Stardawg 7 out of 11 females.
Snake Oil 5 out 11 females.
Most of the Jelly Pies have stretched to about 3 feet and are absolutely vigorous. Coming in on week 3.5 since flip @ seedling.They are wooping ass on the Lucky 7's @ 2.5 feet and 3.5 weeks.
The Jelly Pies have strong natural branching, while the Lucky 7's have exhibited a columnar form.
I went throu a male bomb last late winter across several breeders and some of my own. I have also had 8/9 females on one strain.that's what I like to see for female ratios! 2017 was thee worst year thus far for me when it comes to the amount of males I got in every pack I popped
My current grow is 8/10.I went throu a male bomb last late winter across several breeders and some of my own. I have also had 8/9 females on one strain.
So I've got the sex results on my current grow.
Tomahawk, 4 out 11 are females. 2 plants were absolute stunted runts so I didn't wait for sex.
Hicock Haze, 7 out of 11 are females. No high male count here.
Dream Weaver, 6 out of 11 are females.
Guard Dawg x Stardawg 7 out of 11 females.
Snake Oil 5 out 11 females.
Most of the Jelly Pies have stretched to about 3 feet and are absolutely vigorous. Coming in on week 3.5 since flip @ seedling.They are wooping ass on the Lucky 7's @ 2.5 feet and 3.5 weeks.
The Jelly Pies have strong natural branching, while the Lucky 7's have exhibited a columnar form.
I would like to throw a little tip out there for you guy's, that are having a dominant male issue.
On your next pack you pop, try this and just trust me on it... Yeah, I know, trust is a gamble but I promise you my advice will make you a happier individual if you are indeed looking for more females.
A long time ago, before I started heeding to my own personal experiences, depending on my personal experience, I read lots of books on growing.
I forget which books, but have read in multiple books and even from online experimentations, that ---> seedlings exposed to higher levels or nitrogen from the day it pops to around the end of its first 2 weeks of life, have a better chance of becoming females during sexual exposure <---....
Yeah I know, sounds like an old wives tell, but ladies and gentlemen I decided to heed to that advice one day and experiment for myself. Since the first time I have tried it, I have never looked back.
Now in my experience this is what I do, personally...
I used to soak the seeds in bottled water mixed with a drop of superthrive, since they have changed their formula a few years ago I stopped doing that and "don't really know why", but now I just soak them in distilled water. I knew that superthrive contained trace amounts of nitrogen and growth hormones "auxins" so I thought to myself, this way the seed will even soak and pop its little tail into a nice, weak, but appropriate diluted low dose amount of N.
Anyway... After soaking my seeds in the distilled water I plant directly into promix, into nursery flats. My solution that I soak the medium in consists of a half serving of "Real Growers Recharge" which contains a nice mix of mycorrhiza, kelp, carbohydrates, aminos and filmic/humic acid and it comes with a guarantee to NOT burn or harm plants period, no matter what dose you give them in ANY stage of growth. I can't recommend this product enough, please look it up on Google and reviews as well. Its a miracle creation...
So I mix the recharge with a VERY light dose of whatever base nutrient for veg I am using (currently AN Sensi Grow a&b) at about 2 to 3 ml each per gallon of water. This way they will receive traces of nitrogen early on and also there is no risk of burn. From that point forward I always just add the same amount of products to the water, every time the youngins are needing a drink in the first week. Then up the dose (N) again by a ml after the first week.
Now where I really focus on giving the maximum amount of nitrogen that they can consume without problems is with foiliar feeds. Every other day I mix a small amount of fertilizer in a spray bottle, just a pinch that contains a fast acting easily absorbed nitrogen such as fish emulsion, liquid sea weed juice (kelp extract), or hell even miracle grow will work for this. Just go low on your dose and play it smart. Do this for the first 2 and a half or three weeks of veg. Also I read that along with seedlings exposed to higher levels of nitrogen, that higher humidity plays a role in this method as well.
I have pretty much increased my M to F ratio from around 40% male - 60% female to more like 60-70% female to 40-30% male. Even though the difference is not huge "well it kinda is", it is a huge help for us seeking females vs males and this does work for me...
Try it yourselves and see.
Or if you would rather wait or you are suspicious of my recommendation then just give it a bit and wait until my seedlings show sex and see that more than likely I will have better results getting gals than most people popping them straight into the medium with no added nitrogen, whatsoever. I have 20 seedlings that I can document and I will throw up the results when pre flowers come around. Well two of those are fem beans, so lets see how many fems I get out of 18... Ha, unless I jinx myself with this post... Unfortunately, that happens too....
You cant change a seeds xy chromosome by any environmental variable.if this was true we would get males from feminized seeds which is impossible because they lack the male chromosone.female seeds are xx and thats it.the end.
You cant change a seeds xy chromosome by any environmental variable
I promise you my advice will make you a happier individual ................I personally guarantee it...
It' is impossible man.im sure you may have had a good run but male cannibas pollen contains either x or y chromosone.all females are xx.And I said... I "personally" guarantee it.
If the discussion is going to elevate into an argument, then I would rather just drop it and stop back by with my results when the time comes... Just trying to help people that are wanting a better M to F ratio with something that works for me and their is absolutely nothing wrong with that. It safe and I like my results very much.
It' is impossible man.im sure you may have had a good run but male cannibas pollen contains either x or y chromosone.all females are xx.
When y chromosome pollen hits a female calyx it will make a male seed.when x chromosome hits a calyx it will be a female seed.
This is why female hermied plants make feminized seeds cause they have no Y chromosome so all there seeds will be female.
This is 3rd grade science bro.