Grow More Nutrients

Hermitian

Active Member
Does the Mendocino Avalanche contain any PGR's?
Avalanche contains extracts of seaweed, alfalfa, and barley -- all of which contain PGR's.

It is a common misnomer among cannabis growers to overgeneralize "nutrients" to include all fertilizers. The reality is that there are many categories of fertilizers: nutrients is one of them, PGR's is another, soil amendments (e.g., peat moss) is another, and so on.

As a specific example, Seaweed Extract is not a nutrient -- it is a PGR.

You will note on the Avalanche label the listing of a few nutrients (dissolved minerals) in the Guaranteed Analysis. These are naturally present in the plant extracts. They are present on the label due to labeling requirements for Fertilizer products in California and the U.S. Avalanche is a PGR -- not a nutrient.
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Thanks for clarifying that.
There sure is a lot of word play going on in the cannabis industry that you typically don't see in other nursery and greenhouse industries.
 

Hermitian

Active Member
My perception is that many young growers want "magic in a bottle" and don't want to think about details. They are of course a perfect target for marketers and certainly there is a tidal wave of folks ready to sell them fancy bottles with mysterious names and lots of buzz words included plus light fixtures with high ratings in areas that don't apply to their crop -- or industry for that matter.

However, there's a lot of science in horticulture -- especially indoor growing. The largest error I see new growers make is to select the wrong lighting. Not realizing their error, they then seek "potions" to enhance their crop. After spending hundreds and often thousands of dollars they sometimes start to get it right.

The trend I see in new growers is that after 3 years there is turn-over: 1/4 of them give up, 1/4 continue to spend money on mediocre results, 1/4 of them pay attention to the science of their business and essentially become professional, and the other 1/4 not only pay attention science but the bottom line as well and switch to growing commodity vegetables because there's more profit in it.
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
My perception is that many young growers want "magic in a bottle" and don't want to think about details. They are of course a perfect target for marketers and certainly there is a tidal wave of folks ready to sell them fancy bottles with mysterious names and lots of buzz words included plus light fixtures with high ratings in areas that don't apply to their crop -- or industry for that matter.

However, there's a lot of science in horticulture -- especially indoor growing. The largest error I see new growers make is to select the wrong lighting. Not realizing their error, they then seek "potions" to enhance their crop. After spending hundreds and often thousands of dollars they sometimes start to get it right.

The trend I see in new growers is that after 3 years there is turn-over: 1/4 of them give up, 1/4 continue to spend money on mediocre results, 1/4 of them pay attention to the science of their business and essentially become professional, and the other 1/4 not only pay attention science but the bottom line as well and switch to growing commodity vegetables because there's more profit in it.
Seeing that we are on a Cannabis forum and not in the "LED and Other Lighting" section where it's like a hornets nest - what are your thoughts on the most productive lighting for indoor cannabis cultivation?
 

Hermitian

Active Member
The best spectral density for your crop is 6400-6500 Kelvin color temperature, start to finish. Only fluorescents are capable of getting close to this measure. Further, spectral density is only half the story -- the other half is projected energy. For your crop you need 50 to 75 Watts per projected square foot area. To achieve this indoors you'll need side-by-side 8 bulb x 4' VHO daylight fixtures such as the SunBlaze, with deflectors around the perimeter to limit the projected area.

For persons who believe differently, please don't bother arguing unless you (personally, not someone you are quoting) have at least a college minor in physics or electro-optics.
 

Kygiacomo

Well-Known Member
Hello fellow growers, before I start this discussion I would just like to say that I am not affiliated with Grow More in any way shape or form and have no hidden agendas. The only agenda I have is to help fellow growers find products similar to ones the are using, that can perform the way they are supposed to, and save you money, and also to have intelligent discussion. If you are here to hate or troll, please go to a different thread. I am currently doing a side by side journal with Advanced Nutrients vs. Grow More ( I will start that thread and the posting of my pictures within the next couple days). I have used AN for over 4 years now, and as I've expanded my operation it has become quite costly. So while on my hunt for cheaper alternatives that can perform on the same level, I came across Grow More. I have been thoroughly impressed. And again these are my opinions don't hate. Grow mores 3 part is just as good as any 3 part out there, same numbers as GH an jungle juice, it does what it's supposed too. Their carb is Mendocino honey it's molasses based and doesn't have some gimmicky flavor, as far as I can tell works just as well as Bud Candy, $15-$20 a quart. The Hawaiian bud is a 5-50-17 and works well the first couple weeks of flower. Then the Hula Bloom is a 0-50-30(same as beastie blooms) for weeks 4-6. Both the Hawaiian bud and the hula bloom are solubles and cost $20 for a 1.5lb container. Next Biocozyme $20 a quart, good enzyme product, way cheaper than Sensizyme or hygrozyme. Jump Start root tonic, just as good as any other root tonic, might be a little cheaper than others. Now for the Mendocino Avalanche, my favorite product in the entire line up. It's the only bottle in the country that can make the claim Flower Hardener on the bottle and it's all organic, $20 a quart. So for all you Gravity haters, here you go. Or even the Gravity lovers, try this since Gravitys gone, I think it's better than Overdrive. Fuego is their amino product, $30 a quart, any one use Amino Treatment from HnG? Wow imagine what you could do with that $200 savings. Their lineup is organic based, the application are very reasonable, and I have just been thoroughly impressed with this company that I had never even heard of, go figure? Have you? Now you have. Start saving money and put it elsewhere. I typically spend upwards of $600 on my AN Nutes every cycle, with Grow More I get same results and would only spend like $260ish. I'm stoked to be saving money. If you have used Grow More Nutes before let's have a friendly discussion, if you haven't let's have a friendly discussion. Please no hating. It's a shame that you have to say that in community where we are supposed to all be helping each other. But if not there will be umpteen trolls in this thread in minutes, hating because I like a product and it's not the one they like. Peace, Love and Ganja.
hey bro u still using Grow more? im gonna be using the jump start,avalanche,mendinco honey and biocozyme next year for my outdoor grow with maxi series as my base from GH on half my plants and the other half im gonna be using the 4 grow more products with veg+bloom dirty as my base. just wondering if u still use this and what your nute schedule is..thanks bud
 

jjlowe

Active Member
His site is down. I've used this schedule with excellent results. I've tried both the advanced and regular schedule and honestly couldn't tell a difference. I only used the recharge at 1 tsp per gallon once a week till week 5. 50$ for 25 lbs... that's pennies compared to the fancy bottled ones.. just make sure you get the Mendocino line.
http://www.dudegrows.com/growmorepowders/
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
His site is down. I've used this schedule with excellent results. I've tried both the advanced and regular schedule and honestly couldn't tell a difference. I only used the recharge at 1 tsp per gallon once a week till week 5. 50$ for 25 lbs... that's pennies compared to the fancy bottled ones.. just make sure you get the Mendocino line.
http://www.dudegrows.com/growmorepowders/
Did you try the SeaGrow variation in hydro or was it a dirt formula?
 

jjlowe

Active Member
I used the Mendocino water souluable powder line. 20-20-20 veg, 6-30-30 in flower. Similar to jrpeters(jacks).
Coco DTW multi feeds
8x315lec
I've used maxibloom, jacks 2 part and dynagrows FP in the past. I've yet to run one of the high end/high price nutrient lines from start to finish. I plan on it soon just to see if it really makes a difference.



From Growmore..
Grow More's Mendocino Producer's Choice line of fertilizers are the most advanced powders we've ever created. They are 100% water soluble formulas containing a properly balanced mixture of all essential plant nutrients with quality-enhancing elements; calcium, magnesium, DTPA/EDDHA Iron, carbohydrates, amino acids and no artificial dyes or colorings. This Mendocino line provides highly efficient, performance nutrients as a standalone base nutrient or as a vegetative and bloom stimulant. For use in soilless, hydroponic, organic soils and coco coir systems. Mendocino Bloom Pro is complete with secondary and micro nutrients.
 

kristoffolese

Well-Known Member
The best spectral density for your crop is 6400-6500 Kelvin color temperature, start to finish. Only fluorescents are capable of getting close to this measure. Further, spectral density is only half the story -- the other half is projected energy. For your crop you need 50 to 75 Watts per projected square foot area. To achieve this indoors you'll need side-by-side 8 bulb x 4' VHO daylight fixtures such as the SunBlaze, with deflectors around the perimeter to limit the projected area.

For persons who believe differently, please don't bother arguing unless you (personally, not someone you are quoting) have at least a college minor in physics or electro-optics.
Yes... personal experience means nothing lol
 

kristoffolese

Well-Known Member
The best spectral density for your crop is 6400-6500 Kelvin color temperature, start to finish. Only fluorescents are capable of getting close to this measure. Further, spectral density is only half the story -- the other half is projected energy. For your crop you need 50 to 75 Watts per projected square foot area. To achieve this indoors you'll need side-by-side 8 bulb x 4' VHO daylight fixtures such as the SunBlaze, with deflectors around the perimeter to limit the projected area.

For persons who believe differently, please don't bother arguing unless you (personally, not someone you are quoting) have at least a college minor in physics or electro-optics.
I'm sorry, are you saying 6500K lighting produces better results start to finish, than,3000K, 4000K, or even 3500K? I didn't see that in my partner's grow. 3500K 80cri seems to be the sweet spot. Had improvement mixing the 80 and 90 cri 3500's, but using just the 90's was surprisingly (to me) about 5-10% lower on yield, and a few days longer on the finish. I'll admit neither of us have ever gone higher than 5000k, but that was because our returns diminished noticeably on the plants we did under the 5000k veg rack. Anyone running 6500K's through flower?
 

kristoffolese

Well-Known Member
The best spectral density for your crop is 6400-6500 Kelvin color temperature, start to finish. Only fluorescents are capable of getting close to this measure. Further, spectral density is only half the story -- the other half is projected energy. For your crop you need 50 to 75 Watts per projected square foot area. To achieve this indoors you'll need side-by-side 8 bulb x 4' VHO daylight fixtures such as the SunBlaze, with deflectors around the perimeter to limit the projected area.

For persons who believe differently, please don't bother arguing unless you (personally, not someone you are quoting) have at least a college minor in physics or electro-optics.
Sorry... can't help but bump this to give you a chance to reference any of your claims... u seem to be insinuating that fluoro's are the best lights. Also puzzled by the 75w/ft2... really? Unless you're absolutely drowning them in co2, I'm just not seeing it. That would fry the holy hell out of my plants if I threw 2 QB-288's into a 2x2 and ran em both at 150watts, 300watts/4ft2=75w/ft2.
 

kristoffolese

Well-Known Member
Great question. What king of bennies are you using? To feed the bacteria you want to feed them a molasses based carb like Mendocino Honey. If you want to feed the fungal colony you would want to use a humic acid. Both bactreris and fungi are very important, but I suggest to pick one of the two and focus on feeding that. Realistically most of these products like great white and myco madness ect. are kind of not the best recipe of bennies because the create a competition between the bacteria and fungi. Depending on which one you decide to feed or just which one grows stronger it will basically snuff out the other. I personally think a good fungal colony is paramount But it's your decision. If you want a good carb to feed the bacteria, any molasses based carb will do. Not regular molasses because like you said untreated/undigested molasses is such a big chain of sugar molecule that the bennies can't eat it and it will smother them. I like Mendocino Honey a lot for bacteria. If you want to feed the fungi get a good humic. I like Grow Mores Fulvic/Humic because you kind of get the best of both worlds. The humic feeds the fungus while the fulvic helps with nutrient uptake.
Interested in the comment about the competition between fungal and bacterial colonies, if both are inocculated into the soil... Iv been watching some KIS organics YouTube vids lately, and I'm seeing quite a lot of bacterial/fungal co-existence, on a seemingly regular basis in most of their compost/Organic feed micro studies
 
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