Grow Room Tempterature?
- Thread starter Fr0zen
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GoldenGanja13
Well-Known Member
Idea is 75 degree's. It can go has high as 83 with little problems 85 you run into problems.
I
Illegal Smile
Guest
In veg you can have temps well into the 80s with no problem. It is in flower you want to keep temps in the 70s, lower 70s are better.
LUDACRIS
New Member
mygirls
Medical Marijuana (MOD)
morrning chris hows things growing for you bro...
DJ herbaholic
Member
21-25 degrees
cant go wrong at those temps
cant go wrong at those temps
LUDACRIS
New Member
GoldenGanja13
Well-Known Member
Not so. The stomata will close at 85 degree's and the closer you get to 90 then the plant will stop growing altogther and start curling (Leafs) in and trying to protect itself.
mygirls
Medical Marijuana (MOD)
sorry bro i have to not agree with you on this to sum degree.. the video i just linked im sure you remember that grow.. grown in very high temps threw flower and got one massive yield off her.. it really comes down to FREASH AIR and AIR FLOW how much do you have with the higher heat. oh and don't for get the EXHAUST very important. but hell you already know all this.....
Not so. The stomata will close at 85 degree's and the closer you get to 90 then the plant will stop growing altogether and start curling (Leafs) in and trying to protect itself.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3mlgqky9fE
LUDACRIS
New Member
I
Illegal Smile
Guest
Also co2 level is a factor. In a higher co2 environment, temps can be higher.
mygirls
Medical Marijuana (MOD)
no its the constant fluxuation of the temps in flower. as long as they stay with in a 10 to 15 degrees difrence between lights on and lights off..
Bud Frosty
Well-Known Member
I agree with MG. Intake-airflow-exhaust is key.
It allows you to get away with more under not so ideal temp conditions.
It allows you to get away with more under not so ideal temp conditions.
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
The temperature is the hardest factor to take control of to me. When confined to a small space, ballasts and lights can push temperatures sky-high in no time flat. That is why I use CFLS, to avoid venting heat. This is especially true during hot summer months when outside temperature reaches its highest. Nighttime (LIGHTS OFF period) temperature can be just as difficult to regulate during cold winter month. Most gardeners are aware that temperature in the grow room plays a major role and can greatly affect the growth of plants and the quality of the finished crop. Most gardeners do not know how controlling the temperature of their garden in very specific ways they can achieve a superior crop. Drift to far from these ideal temperatures and watch your plants and crop suffer.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. (Digital $4.95 at Walmart)
This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. You want a 10 degree difference between LIGHTS ON and LIGHTS OFF temps. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift to far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be slowed and stunted. Plants do thrive in afganastan's 110 degrees, but they quit growing at that temp. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plants enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures above 92 - 94, high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
Ideal temperature varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15f from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple aquarium floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
$2 to $4 at Walmart, Target,
PetSmart Aquarium Dept
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room.
Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises.
These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. Spider Mite Eggs and webs can screw up the buds so bad, they can nto be smoked. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50% for Vegging. (you want high humidity for VEG, and low humidity for Flowering.) This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature for sprouting or cloning is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 65 to 75 degrees F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plants root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Amazingly, some growers grow successfully with no themometer for the air or water. But for maximum efficiency, you got to take control of temps.
HUMIDITY? that is more simple to me. Get the Humidity VERY high for VEGGING, and very low for FLOWERING.
in Vegging, I mist them daily. I do raise the lights up, to be careful with my bulbs getting wet and breaking. And when it rains outside, it also gets cloudy and the sun's rays are blocked. Plants in outdoors, in nature do get an ocasional rain shower or thunderstorm. Do you let it rain on yours? I do, but artificially by MISTING.
AND, I bought a cheap humidifier.
Cheap Cool Mist Humidifiers from Walmart:
$26.00
Ultrasonic Humidifier With Light
$28.97
Graco, Cool Mist Humidifier, 1.5 Gallon $29.96
During Flowering, we need a low humidity, especially to avoid Bud mold and bud rot.
Cheap De-Humidifier for closets and tents
$40 at amazon.com
__________________
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. (Digital $4.95 at Walmart)
This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. You want a 10 degree difference between LIGHTS ON and LIGHTS OFF temps. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift to far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be slowed and stunted. Plants do thrive in afganastan's 110 degrees, but they quit growing at that temp. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plants enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures above 92 - 94, high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
Ideal temperature varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15f from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple aquarium floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
$2 to $4 at Walmart, Target,
PetSmart Aquarium Dept
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room.
Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises.
These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. Spider Mite Eggs and webs can screw up the buds so bad, they can nto be smoked. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50% for Vegging. (you want high humidity for VEG, and low humidity for Flowering.) This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature for sprouting or cloning is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 65 to 75 degrees F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plants root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Amazingly, some growers grow successfully with no themometer for the air or water. But for maximum efficiency, you got to take control of temps.
HUMIDITY? that is more simple to me. Get the Humidity VERY high for VEGGING, and very low for FLOWERING.
in Vegging, I mist them daily. I do raise the lights up, to be careful with my bulbs getting wet and breaking. And when it rains outside, it also gets cloudy and the sun's rays are blocked. Plants in outdoors, in nature do get an ocasional rain shower or thunderstorm. Do you let it rain on yours? I do, but artificially by MISTING.
AND, I bought a cheap humidifier.
Cheap Cool Mist Humidifiers from Walmart:
;)
$26.00 ;)
Ultrasonic Humidifier With Light
$28.97
;)
Graco, Cool Mist Humidifier, 1.5 Gallon $29.96 During Flowering, we need a low humidity, especially to avoid Bud mold and bud rot.
Cheap De-Humidifier for closets and tents
$40 at amazon.com
__________________
Green Cross
Well-Known Member
75 is ideal
86F is pushing it
90's is a popcorn factory
86F is pushing it
90's is a popcorn factory
GoldenGanja13
Well-Known Member
I will have to check out link.
My flower room stays about 75-82 and they all flowered (4 strains) in 5 days. I know that the higher heats step up the metabalism, but also closes the stomatas, and unless you have co2 to push xxtra in to those that are not closed, I would say slow growth will occur. Now outside air has way amounts of co2. I am getting fresh air into my flower room and pushing out exhaust and a nice pace. Could be why I flowered so fast.
The pic on my Signature is only 7 days of 12/12 and avatar is her at 11 days 12/12.
Here is Northern Lights 7 days 12/12
Fresh Air..
"SmokinForever"
Active Member
With enough air movement you can actually have pretty high temps and be successful! You will just be more successful with temps in the 70's during flower
Not so. The stomata will close at 85 degree's and the closer you get to 90 then the plant will stop growing altogther and start curling (Leafs) in and trying to protect itself.