Growing Shrooms Around Marijiuana

T

timeismoney1

New Member
So the myth says

However ive let me jars colonize in direct light perfectly. Also you can dig up info stateing this myth is hookus pookus
 
sonar

sonar

Well-Known Member
Well I guess I stand corrected. I was always under the impression direct light wasn't healthy for mycelium and could trigger pinning before complete colonization.
 
ForrestGreen

ForrestGreen

Member
how do you think they do it in the wild? Without sunlight? No! I've been reading up as well, and have read.........
http://www.fungifun.org/English/Pftek#a1 <------Link! this part is about 3/4 the way down the page**


Depending on the temperature and the viability of the spore syringe it takes 14-28 days for the mycelium to colonize the whole jar. Once colonized store the jars at normal room temperature, about 21°C (70°F) to initiate pinning.
Don't expose the jars to direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight (= the natural light that lights up a room because at day time out) or a low wattage lamp (cool white fluorescent lamp is ideal, incandescent lamp is less suitable) for 4-12 hours a day is sufficient.

Within 5-10 days (with certain mushroom strains it can however take up to 30 days) pinhead-size accumulations of mycelium should form. These so called pins represent the beginning of mushroom growth. In the following days also small mushrooms with brown heads become visible. When this is the case it's time to birth the cake into the fruiting container where the mushrooms can develop to maturity.
Some strains don't easily develop pins. In this case put the colonized jar wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge over night and then proceed to fruiting next day, even if the cake doesn't show pins yet. This cold shocking usually helps trigger pinning somewhat.



Here's some more info, its based around the same info and may or may not explain it better....
http://www.shroomery.org/8410/Simple-Cubensis-Growing-Technique#TheDogg
 
DarthD3vl

DarthD3vl

Well-Known Member
Light is only one part of a triggering process, (and i dont think its all that important in triggering, more important on size of and abundance of pins after pinning has started) if your jars get ALOT of gas exchange and enough light, and your sub starts to dry out a little or possible temp fluxuation it COULD (doesn't mean it will) initiate pinning in the jar..
just one of those things with out the others probably wont set off pinning though.

I think it may also play inpart to the strains resillance and possibly some type of mutations may cause certain groups of mycelium to fruit prematurly, which could happen in light and confuse people I guess.

there are experiments that might lend to the theory that zero light allows colonizing faster.. but I dont think there is any thing deffinitive on it.

Often times Mushrooms will grow even with out perfect conditions so either way light or dark most of the time you probably wont have any problems with the mycelium..

Most natural mushrooms do grow in very little light, they colonize underground, then fruit up into the light. that still doesn't mean light will initiate pinning by itself.
 
DarthD3vl

DarthD3vl

Well-Known Member
Opps sorry forrest i accidently merged your posts.. not sure how i did that. not sure i can undo it either.. :\ sorry.


did any ones elses posts get merged with yours? again sorry I forgot to unclick some stuff while messing with mod shit.
 
canndo

canndo

Well-Known Member
The Rollin Arachnia said:
Like sonar, I heard that it would produce pinning before it was time... is this not true?
Click to expand...

If you are a perfectionist and you want to orchestrate a perfect pinset (like me), especially on substrates other than grain then yes, you should withold light from your grow until mycelium just crests the surface of your casing, otherwise, it really does not matter.
 
DarthD3vl

DarthD3vl

Well-Known Member
canndo said:
If you are a perfectionist and you want to orchestrate a perfect pinset (like me), especially on substrates other than grain then yes, you should withold light from your grow until mycelium just crests the surface of your casing, otherwise, it really does not matter.
Click to expand...
Might be worth something to mention I always keep mine in the dark also (its not like keepin them in the dark is hard. lol)... Just thought it might be worth mentioning many people who dont do that still manage get mushrooms... Nature is a wild thing.

Off topic,
Hey canndo curious what strains you normally work with? are they all cubes?
 
canndo

canndo

Well-Known Member
DarthD3vl said:
Might be worth something to mention I always keep mine in the dark also (its not like keepin them in the dark is hard. lol)... Just thought it might be worth mentioning many people who dont do that still manage get mushrooms... Nature is a wild thing.

Off topic,
Hey canndo curious what strains you normally work with? are they all cubes?
Click to expand...


I developed an albino variety that I use here and there from repeated experiments with Amazon and B+ but frankly I like B+ for lots of reasons, having tried about a dozen others.


Done some work with Mexicana.
 
DarthD3vl

DarthD3vl

Well-Known Member
canndo said:
I developed an albino variety that I use here and there from repeated experiments with Amazon and B+ but frankly I like B+ for lots of reasons, having tried about a dozen others.


Done some work with Mexicana.
Click to expand...
I'd have to say my favorite two strains are pf classic, and golden teacher, third would be pes hawaii. I've only had my hands on 7 strains though.. and my columbians syringe was contamed so really 6, B+ has always intrigued me. as well have albino strains, i really want to get my hands on a red spore mutation!!
 
canndo

canndo

Well-Known Member
DarthD3vl said:
I'd have to say my favorite two strains are pf classic, and golden teacher, third would be pes hawaii. I've only had my hands on 7 strains though.. and my columbians syringe was contamed so really 6, B+ has always intrigued me. as well have albino strains, i really want to get my hands on a red spore mutation!!
Click to expand...

I isolated a sporeless variety - it was the most valuable I ever had and I used it for years until it finally sencienced (sp) into a weak sort of rot. B+ blues strongly, commonly offers 4 good flushes, pins sets very nicely and the second flush yields some BIG guys.
 
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