Guide to Hydrogen Peroxide in hydroponics systems.

fatman7574

New Member
U.S. water treatment plants are reuired to injected enough chlorine into their water just before disr tribation to assure that after the part of the chlorine used to oxidized pathogen or that form organic componds is subtrated that there is still at least 2.0 ppm for 20 minutes. The water must then at at laest 0.5 ppm residual chlorine at its furthest delivery point. As chlorine and some organic carbons can combine to form some bad *ss Trihalomethanes and Haloacetic Acids now controlled by the EPA, the water treatment plants try to use only as much chlorine as needed so usually the only add about 4 ppm and this usually means about 2 ppm at your water tap. The acids and Trihalomethanes are not detrimental to plants nor are the taken up by plants. The problem is that ingestion, contact or breathing the fumes of the chemicals can cause bladder cancer and reproductive problems. As organic nutrients contain many, many carbon chain compoundsthey readily form large concentrations of the Trihalomethanes and Haloacetic Acids. concentration much higher than allowed for bathing, cooking and drinking. Needless to say aeration of such nutrient water would mean high concentrations of these chemicals in grow rooms when using chlorine with organic nutrients.

Nuff about that.

H2O2 just destroys through oxidation many orgai nic componds when used with organic nutrients. b Plus as mentioned before it offers no residual effect to keep your system pathogen free between doses as does chlorine.

If your water has been treated at a water treatment palnt just use it as it comes from the tap as far as the chlorine is concerned. You will still have to deal with the issues of water quality however. The problem is that most people use a RO filter to remove all the carbon and other minerals. With a RO filter you must firts use carbon to remove r the chlorine as it causes rapid deteriation of the thin Film Membarnes use in the RO membarne. This means you need to at least restore the residual level of chlorine to h keep your already pathogen free system free of pathogens. If you system is not free of pathogens y you need to use at least some 2 ppm or higher water run through the system without plants to kill off all pathogens. Then dump that water and mix up nutrients and add enough chlorine to obtain a 0.5 ppm level of chlorine. This should keep your system pathogen free as long as you maintain a level of at least 0.5 ppm of chlorine. Some people talk crap about all the chlorine but they do not consider the fact that typical tap water left to aerate for 24 hours usually still contains at least 0.5 ppm of chlorine and thousands of growers use such water daily for their plants. Were talking a few drops per gallon, or about 1/9 th the chlorine concentration that commercial hot house use to grow tomatos, cucumbers, peppers and lettuce etc.

So is the level of tap water chlorine safe for mixing chemical nutrients for mj. Yes. But its residual disinfection abilities will only last a few days at best. Chloramine lasts about two to three times as long.
 

Shanus

Active Member
Holy crap. So, dont breathe the aerated organic nute water! I know the water here is very clean aside from excess chlorine. Since it doesnt seem to be a detriment, perhaps i'll just ignorethe chlorine, and it'll be a non-issue. I aint getting filtered water for a damn WEED! Hell, i drink the shit outta the tap. Thanks for the science of water tho. Little too deep for me just yet.

Still just curious as to the validity of using peroxide for a flush. Or perhaps you would suggest a chloramine flush in the hydor tank?
 

fatman7574

New Member
I would simply suggest if you use organic nutrients that everytime you change out your reservoir that you drain irt pour in enough pH balanced water to be able to curculate it and then add enough chlorine to it to obtain a level of between about 2 and 2.5 ppm, or use H2O2 at recommend dosage. Run it through your system for an hour or so. Dump it and then use your new nutrients as usual. The small amount of chlorine used in tap water is not going to cause a hugh amount of triahlomethanes or halacetic caids if you are not also adding additional chlorine regularly. Your mj plants will loose a few stored unmetabolized fertilizers to the water through osmossis due to the low water EC but very little in just an hour or two. Yet unmetabolized nutrient ions can travel either directions through the roots. The plant fluids having a higher EC will give up mineral ions to the low EC water. Osmosis.
 

fandango

Well-Known Member
I just started using 3% about a month ago in my DWC set-up. Noticed a huge difference in root development. They stayed nice and white and always smelled really fresh. With all the talk about nutes and lights, H2O2 definitely deserves more consideration from people. My only recommendation for Hydro is to not mix organic with it. I'm not a chemist or botanist either, but the 3% works just fine for my 6 gallon res. I add 10 ml per gallon when I mix my nutes, and whenever I top off. A liter of the stuff at Wal-mart is only $1, well worth the investment.
If it worked for you...I am going to give it a go too!
Bye the way...where did all these members go off to?
 

Vasdef

Member
Alright folks, I just got my 35% H2O2 and did about 2-3 ml per gallon of water like recommended by the guide I found (and it seems to be the only 35% guide around).... The plants started wilting within an hour, so I flushed them with lots of fresh water... I am starting to think he meant DILUTE the H2O2 to 3% then use 2-3ml per gallon. I hope you guys don't have the same results I did. If I just killed my babies I will be very sad =(
I believe its 11 to one, water & 35% ht02
 

plumsmooth

Well-Known Member
I occasionally switch from bennies to h202 if I plant appears to be having root trouble at my slightly elevated reservoir temperatures. I use 1 TBL per gallon of the approx 30% h202. This might be a little higher than the general recommended amount? I then continue to top off the reservoir always adding this tbl per about 1-1.5 gallons. The plant finished incredible it is about 4-5 days from haverst I believe. I have been running this for over 2 weeks. I just realized I am going to order 100PPM h202 Test Strips as I believe the important question is is any h202 building up in the system or is it holding fairly steady around 100PPM? BTW 15 Mil (tbl) per Gallon 3785 ML is 252 division so 30% h202 is 30,000 PPM divided by 252 = 119 PPM
Maybe i could order the next level up but I was going to get the 100 PPM h202 test strips? BEtween degradation of the opened bottle and the evaporation/breakdown etc. I would be very surprised if my solution is going above or staying above 100PPM. Thanks for listening
 
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