Hand feed vs hydro

DarkWeb

DarkWeb

Well-Known Member
That doesn't look that bad. I would increase veg and flower time. Let them branch out more and dense up more. What strain was it again?
 
S

Sirkush420

Member
DarkWeb said:
That doesn't look that bad. I would increase veg and flower time. Let them branch out more and dense up more. What strain was it again?
Click to expand...
Thanks, I’ll give it a go on the next one I was thinking of a 5 week veg and top at week 3?
Ita critical kush by original seeds grown from seed
 
Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Sirkush420 said:
Do we think hydro 24/7 feed would be better than one feed a day?
Click to expand...
Your plants look really nice from what I can see btw. Decent structure and cola size it looks like.

I've done a few soil grows, but most of my last 14 years of growing was in a flood and drain perpetual SOG with hydroton in pots. If I was running coco, it would be with some sort of feed system, either top feed or flood and drain personally.

How long was the bud you posted on the last page drying for? It honestly looks to me like it had more swelling to do, buts its hard to judge from a dry cola. Were those stigma white still when you harvested, the long bright orange ones look that way.

As a general rule I'm a huge advocate for letting plants ripen longer then most people have the patients for. I've grown 1k+ plants of a nice variety of strains and watched how they all grow and mature. As a standard rule, the plants usually reach a point where the stigma have all shrunk, and the buds don't look like they are growing. People see this and think the plant is done, but that is the point it at which it still needs 2-3 weeks. Those last weeks are tough especially for newer growers because without really being able to understand and read the plant yet, it looked done weeks ago to them. But the reward is always worth it.
 
S

Sirkush420

Member
Thundercat said:
Your plants look really nice from what I can see btw. Decent structure and cola size it looks like.

I've done a few soil grows, but most of my last 14 years of growing was in a flood and drain perpetual SOG with hydroton in pots. If I was running coco, it would be with some sort of feed system, either top feed or flood and drain personally.

How long was the bud you posted on the last page drying for? It honestly looks to me like it had more swelling to do, buts its hard to judge from a dry cola. Were those stigma white still when you harvested, the long bright orange ones look that way.

As a general rule I'm a huge advocate for letting plants ripen longer then most people have the patients for. I've grown 1k+ plants of a nice variety of strains and watched how they all grow and mature. As a standard rule, the plants usually reach a point where the stigma have all shrunk, and the buds don't look like they are growing. People see this and think the plant is done, but that is the point it at which it still needs 2-3 weeks. Those last weeks are tough especially for newer growers because without really being able to understand and read the plant yet, it looked done weeks ago to them. But the reward is always worth it.
Click to expand...
Thanks :) it’s my third grow now but the first time I’ve grown in coco soil and already prefer it

the bud was chopped out last night and has had about 12 hours drying at 20degrees and 50%rh
Unfortunately the plant started to get a little bud rot due to humidity levels recently (it’s been horrible and wet and my intake takes fresh air in)
It was still around 20% amber trichomes though
I’ve got a few more still going so will give them some extra time and see how it goes

I was told that letting them flower too long can make the high more of a knockout than energetic? I’m an artist by trade so smoke to get inspiration so don’t want anything that’s gonna out me to sleep too easily lol
 
DarkWeb

DarkWeb

Well-Known Member
Sirkush420 said:
That looks stunning and more like what I’m after, how long did you veg with this? Also did you keep the skewers in to keep them apart?
thanks for the help btw
Click to expand...
I'd like to give you an accurate answer but I don't keep notes anymore and hardly take pics but if I had to guess 5 months from 1st set of true leaves to cut and drying.......but I'm not to sure. Could be a little less or more. The skewers stayed in till they bent like a happy face smile. Then the branches stayed far enough apart. Lots of LST
 
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S

Sirkush420

Member
Thundercat said:
Your plants look really nice from what I can see btw. Decent structure and cola size it looks like.

I've done a few soil grows, but most of my last 14 years of growing was in a flood and drain perpetual SOG with hydroton in pots. If I was running coco, it would be with some sort of feed system, either top feed or flood and drain personally.

How long was the bud you posted on the last page drying for? It honestly looks to me like it had more swelling to do, buts its hard to judge from a dry cola. Were those stigma white still when you harvested, the long bright orange ones look that way.

As a general rule I'm a huge advocate for letting plants ripen longer then most people have the patients for. I've grown 1k+ plants of a nice variety of strains and watched how they all grow and mature. As a standard rule, the plants usually reach a point where the stigma have all shrunk, and the buds don't look like they are growing. People see this and think the plant is done, but that is the point it at which it still needs 2-3 weeks. Those last weeks are tough especially for newer growers because without really being able to understand and read the plant yet, it looked done weeks ago to them. But the reward is always worth it.
Click to expand...
P.s in your 14 years what’s the best yield per plant?
 
S

Sirkush420

Member
DarkWeb said:
I'd like to give you an accurate answer but I don't keep notes anymore and hardly take pics but if I had to guess 5 months from 1st set of true leaves to cut and drying.......but I'm not to sure. Could be a little less or more. The skewers stayed in till they bent like a happy face smile. Then the branches stayied far enough apart. Lots of LST
Click to expand...
Aye it’s always hard to remember each plant personally, how did you find your seedling in the 12/12 lighting? Saw them in your last pic
And also what did the plant yield? If you remember?
I have a friend who says he gets 6oz per plant on the same time scale as me but can’t figure out how, or maybe he’s just telling lies?
 
DarkWeb

DarkWeb

Well-Known Member
Sirkush420 said:
Thanks :) it’s my third grow now but the first time I’ve grown in coco soil and already prefer it

the bud was chopped out last night and has had about 12 hours drying at 20degrees and 50%rh
Unfortunately the plant started to get a little bud rot due to humidity levels recently (it’s been horrible and wet and my intake takes fresh air in)
It was still around 20% amber trichomes though
I’ve got a few more still going so will give them some extra time and see how it goes

I was told that letting them flower too long can make the high more of a knockout than energetic? I’m an artist by trade so smoke to get inspiration so don’t want anything that’s gonna out me to sleep too easily lol
Click to expand...
Yeah let the rest go you'll be happy. That plant I posted was raspberry cough from nirvana you might like it for inspiration. I like similar stuff. What kind of art do you do?
 
S

Sirkush420

Member
DarkWeb said:
Yeah let the rest go you'll be happy. That plant I posted was raspberry cough from nirvana you might like it for inspiration. I like similar stuff. What kind of art do you do?
Click to expand...
Did you grow from seed? I’ll have to check it out
I’m always looking for something for personal
I started critical kush to try out but always grow a little Casey Jones for myself
 
DarkWeb

DarkWeb

Well-Known Member
Sirkush420 said:
Aye it’s always hard to remember each plant personally, how did you find your seedling in the 12/12 lighting? Saw them in your last pic
And also what did the plant yield? If you remember?
I have a friend who says he gets 6oz per plant on the same time scale as me but can’t figure out how, or maybe he’s just telling lies?
Click to expand...
Little plants like the shade.....I think that little one was a auto that went outside for a mid summer harvest.
I don't even weigh anymore......but more than 6oz that pic was way before chop.
 
DarkWeb

DarkWeb

Well-Known Member
Sirkush420 said:
Did you grow from seed? I’ll have to check it out
I’m always looking for something for personal
I started critical kush to try out but always grow a little Casey Jones for myself
Click to expand...
Yes reg seed. I had some males also........im growing some of the seed I made from them now.
IMG_20190416_191140.jpg
 
dwood8165

dwood8165

Well-Known Member
WHen starting from seed I let the plant grow until the branches shift on the stem. During the adolescent stage and younger the branches are perpendicular to each other, as the plant matures the branches will shift on its own. Then I know for sure the plant is mature enough for flower. in most cases this will help prevent hermies. you are not rushing the natural process.
During this time you can prune side branches, I just do not like cutting the top. because I think and believe it makes the branches shift early. Usually the plant does get pretty big at times, depending on the strain. Any cutting at this time I throw away. because they are not mature.
After the shift I take my clones and put the plant into flower. most of the time boys will be boys and girls will be girls.
For finish, i still look at the tri's at about 50 days then again at 60 days or so, give or take some days.
If it is a new strain to me, I will leave a plant in flower to see if she still has something to give.
This is a longer process. But I like doing seeds in this way. Because with all of the new strains and different breeders coming out. The seeds or what ever my not be fully developed. and then you can get hermies or make a good plant into a hermie (rushing the plant process)
In the end I know my girls are girls and my boys are boys. they ready for me to stress and test their boundaries
When watering I like to keep the soil moist. So ever it takes. right now I am automating the watering. Once I have a handle on the time of long it takes before my pots start to dry. I will set it into motion. Right now if I water today until runoff. I will not have to water again for two or three days.
I do the same for fem seeds.
some say if you control how the water flows its hydro
 
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curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Sirkush420 said:
I do 4 weeks veg from a seedling so having a few leaves before putting under the HID lights so they’re already around 2 weeks old before vegging

they start to show flowers within the first week and I use switch spray to stop any Hermies which helps kick flowers in (or so I’ve found)
I’ve order some more of the same strain so will try a little longer
I only chop when I see around 30% amber trichomes I still have other to harvest so I’ll send take some pictures shortly
Click to expand...
You aren't counting your 2 weeks as a seedling. Veg starts when the seedlings begin to grow vigorously, around 2 weeks post germination.

Next only 8 weeks of flower when your plants are barely mature is probably not long enough.

Finally I'd stop using Switch because Ethylene signals early senescence in cannabis! I would speculate that could be a cause of your decreased harvest.

Optic Foliar SWITCH is a highly specialize product to prevent the onset of seeds and hermaphrodites in flowering crops and will also stop and reverse the production of seeds and hermaphrodites in late bloom. Many additional benefits of SWITCH have also been recognized by growers over the years from initiating bloom to maintaining a longer vegetative state for outdoor crops. As the features & benefits of Optic Foliar Switch are unique, so are the application and usage instructions.

For the best results, as well as to help minimize leaf damage and leaf drop, growers need to pay attention to the following, prior to using Optic Foliar SWITCH:

  • Do not use on plants that are under any form of STRESS, including the following:
  • When the temperature is below 65°F/18°C or higher than 90°F/32°C.
  • Do not foliar spray any other products onto the plant 24 hours prior to applying SWITCH or 24 hours after applying SWITCH.
  • Do not apply to over-fertilized or under-watered plants.
  • Do not apply to plants infested with bugs or infected with fungi or disease of any kind, including the root zone.
  • Do not add any other products to the combination of SWTICH & TRANSPORT.
Many forms of plant stress can lead to the production of ethylene gas by the plant. This is further compounded when SWITCH is applied to the leaves as it produces ethylene gas as a by-product, further amplifying the side-effects caused by stress.

When applied to plants, Optic Foliar SWITCH readily enters the plant and breaks down to ethylene, a naturally occurring plant hormone. Ethylene production within the plant is stimulated by stress. For this reason it is important that plants being treated are not under stress from drought, high or low temperatures, disease or other environmental stress conditions. Treating stressed plants may cause severe injury to the plant such as defoliation or leaf scorching. Injury from Optic Foliar SWITCH does not kill the plant, but may render the leaves unpleasant to look at.

SWITCH does not lower yields, quality or essential oil production and will not leave any residue or toxicity within the plant. Plants will recover from the temporary leaf damage and will continue to produce blooms with no adverse affect to weight, quality or essential oil production.
 
S

Sirkush420

Member
DarkWeb said:
Yes reg seed. I had some males also........im growing some of the seed I made from them now.
View attachment 4492339
Click to expand...
I ain’t got the testacles be growing any males near my ladies lol
I buy feminised seeds to be as sure as possible and then use switch just to be safe. Had a previous grow pollinate and ruin the whole crop
I’ve researched the difference and what to be looking for but since then I’m a little scared so try everything possible to stop Hermie a/males
 
DarkWeb

DarkWeb

Well-Known Member
dwood8165 said:
WHen starting from seed I let the plant grow until the branches shift on the stem. During the adolescent stage and younger the branches are perpendicular to each other, as the plant matures the branches will shift on its own. Then I know for sure the plant is mature enough for flower. in most cases this will help prevent hermies. you are not rushing the natural process.
During this time you can prune side branches, I just do not like cutting the top. because I think and believe it makes the branches shift early. Usually the plant does get pretty big at times, depending on the strain. Any cutting at this time I throw away. because they are not mature.
After the shift I take my clones and put the plant into flower. most of the time boys will be boys and girls will be girls.
For finish, i still look at the tri's at about 50 days then again at 60 days or so, give or take some days.
If it is a new strain to me, I will leave a plant in flower to see if she still has something to give.
This is a longer process. But I like doing seeds in this way. Because with all of the new strains and different breeders coming out. The seeds or what ever my not be fully developed. and then you can get hermies or make a good plant into a hermie (rushing the plant process)
In the end I know my girls are girls and my boys are boys. they ready for me to stress and test their boundaries
Click to expand...
I have never had a hermie. But now this is the 2nd time I've heard someone say about alternating branches......and maturity. I was always under the impression that they stagger on branches and main stems stay perpendicular. At least that's from my experence and books I read a long time ago. Do you have any info on that?
 
S

Sirkush420

Member
curious2garden said:
You aren't counting your 2 weeks as a seedling. Veg starts when the seedlings begin to grow vigorously, around 2 weeks post germination.

Next only 8 weeks of flower when your plants are barely mature is probably not long enough.

Finally I'd stop using Switch because Ethylene signals early senescence in cannabis! I would speculate that could be a cause of your decreased harvest.

Optic Foliar SWITCH is a highly specialize product to prevent the onset of seeds and hermaphrodites in flowering crops and will also stop and reverse the production of seeds and hermaphrodites in late bloom. Many additional benefits of SWITCH have also been recognized by growers over the years from initiating bloom to maintaining a longer vegetative state for outdoor crops. As the features & benefits of Optic Foliar Switch are unique, so are the application and usage instructions.

For the best results, as well as to help minimize leaf damage and leaf drop, growers need to pay attention to the following, prior to using Optic Foliar SWITCH:

  • Do not use on plants that are under any form of STRESS, including the following:
  • When the temperature is below 65°F/18°C or higher than 90°F/32°C.
  • Do not foliar spray any other products onto the plant 24 hours prior to applying SWITCH or 24 hours after applying SWITCH.
  • Do not apply to over-fertilized or under-watered plants.
  • Do not apply to plants infested with bugs or infected with fungi or disease of any kind, including the root zone.
  • Do not add any other products to the combination of SWTICH & TRANSPORT.
Many forms of plant stress can lead to the production of ethylene gas by the plant. This is further compounded when SWITCH is applied to the leaves as it produces ethylene gas as a by-product, further amplifying the side-effects caused by stress.

When applied to plants, Optic Foliar SWITCH readily enters the plant and breaks down to ethylene, a naturally occurring plant hormone. Ethylene production within the plant is stimulated by stress. For this reason it is important that plants being treated are not under stress from drought, high or low temperatures, disease or other environmental stress conditions. Treating stressed plants may cause severe injury to the plant such as defoliation or leaf scorching. Injury from Optic Foliar SWITCH does not kill the plant, but may render the leaves unpleasant to look at.

SWITCH does not lower yields, quality or essential oil production and will not leave any residue or toxicity within the plant. Plants will recover from the temporary leaf damage and will continue to produce blooms with no adverse affect to weight, quality or essential oil production.
Click to expand...
I don’t count my first 2 weeks as a seedling as veg time I do the 2 weeks and then 4 weeks of veg

I did everything mentioned above when using switch but I’ll maybe give it a miss next time and only use it if I see any bananas
I still have some going as I’ve only taken down 2 so far so I’ll have them go an extra week or 2 then chop and do a weight comparison,
I’ve not done a flush as I’ve seen recent experiments claiming that flushing does nothing for the buds or plant but can harm a yield so I’ll just carry on hand feeding
 
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