Have we looked at clever ways to hang yet? (and/or side lighting)

I can't seem to find much about searching.

How is everyone hanging their various DIY efforts? Any particularly clever ways to make them adjustable. Individually adjustable with regard to the classic 3070/Apline cooler combo? Or for the most part do we not need to worry about how close things get?

For instance I have a cabinet around 5' (with 4' worth of sensible growing height). Plants for in vegged to around half of that. Should I worry about moving the lights around to suit much?

On a side note whilst I think about it, have we discussed the pro's and cons of lot of little soft powered vero10 (or smaller) side lights?

Things like these for ultimate flexibility?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00H8L4SCA
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EI4SLCS

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00L31PV2W



Off my own topic already but part back story: I'm in the process of radically upgrading my cabinet (well cupboard), and I'm looking at options. Its very hard to ignore the 3070/3950/meanwell/alpine options and drive them super soft. I'm past battling heat issues in stealth cabs and wasting time. Supra has really inspired me to look much more sensibly at efficiency. I'm even debating as to whether I might go all out a bit mental and run the 3070s at 200mah or less in an effort to keep my heat down as much as possible, but i'm not so sure how much money I have to burn yet

Hey RG, you pose a great question. Certain aspects of DIY are still in beta mode, mounting, reflectors, how muc heatsink to use and hanging are really not nailed down for all of use. When it comes to hanging I am getting along with a sloppy method of hanging a dozen heatsinks and adjusting them individually to the canopy as best I can. They ones I use are heavy (~90 LBS in each tent) so I use a 2X3 frame above and around the canopy to support the weight. I would love to find a better method. I have been considering attaching steel remesh to the frame for better adjustability

I documented some sources of flexible "stay put" gooseneck stuff here. It's in the latter half of that article, section 4.6.

I've been thinking about those adjustable scaffolding things. I made an adjustable fixture from 3/4" square wood which might give you some ideas. Your post just caused me to think about how the pivot joints could have been slotted for additional length adjustment. Using plastic hand knobs to tighten the adjustable joints would be an improvement too. I found the 3/16" wing nuts wouldn't tighten enough. I moved up to 1/4" wing nuts. They work ok, but a threaded plastic hand knob would be better. I never thought about that until right now. I've seen them at Ace Hardware. Just need more leverage to tighten.

You can find sellers of stayput goosnecks on AliExpress, etc. These were three companies I found:

http://www.hagitec.com/products/flexible-metal-conduits/product-list/gooseneck-tubes/
http://tubing.flexible-gooseneck.com/viewitems/all-categories/flexible-metal-tubing-2?
http://www.flexible-arm.com/product_Flexible_gooseneck_tube_20.html

They're not geared toward individual purchasers. But, gives you an idea of what's available (dimensions, holding strength, etc.).

SupraSPL said:

I have been considering attaching steel remesh to the frame for better adjustability

Click to expand...

I've been thinking of running chain across the top of my tent. Like "tracks". That would give me an almost infinite number of places to hook an S-hook into the top of the tent. I'm thinking 4 chains running left/right, 4 running front/back. Hooked to each other where they cross each other (for stability).

Thanks for the quick reply gusy

That's fine, I was worried my search-fu was weak! What you guys are doing for the community in terms of research is unsurpassed if i'm honest. Don't put yourselves down! You've shaped pretty much how I look at everything LED!

Maybe long lengths of extruded aluminium is the way to go, and a chain-like or mesh firmly fixed to the ceiling as you say would give you an infinite amount of adjustability.

I'm still using soil or the like right now, and I keep telling myself I could just raise the plants. But I want it to be future proofed because I feel i will end up moving to something a little more automated/set and forget ie hydro which won't give me so much opportunity to pot height. I know you're all organic Supra, this isn't me raising a discussion with you I promise

There are SO many different options and variables it's so freaking hard to settle down on what i'll finally do with what i've got. I just don't want to have to faff around again in the future. I'm done with faffing. I don't mind the effort now, but i want to build something reliable that I can set and forget. I know who am i kidding this is DIY, but i really hope I can just give it up and get on with growing and other things!

I have been thinking about something like you guys are discussing here for a long time. The biggest issue I run into when thinking about it is the most effective way to deal with the wires involved.

I have been thinking the best method is likely to mount the individual power supplies in an enclosure, or one a board and then run wires threw some goose neck electrical conduit that has the right tension to support the heat sink. Like GGs drone, but with 2 foot goose necks supporting each LED, a light squid of shorts.

And Yes... Raising and lowering the plants has been a better option for me so far because of the increased costs and complexity of making something as described above... Raising the plants is a very low tech and effective solution.

I like to zip-tie the wires to the ropes holding up the lights to reduce clutter and make sure it's all going up so it's easier to route and so it's out of the way.

As for the hangers themselves, me and a few others here are using heavy duty picture frame hangers on each corner.\.

I use M4 6mm screws to hold the picture hangers onto to the corners of the sink. Then you can get creative on how you tie it up. I use rope or cable to join 2 sides, then use 2 ropes/chains to the ceiling. (like two upside-down Y shapes).

You can add M4 jam nuts on the other side of the M4 screws if you don't trust the aluminum threads.