shit dude, I bet we even surfed Kaisers together and didn't even know it. I'm a "goofy Foot", I use use to surf Ala Moana bowls, but eventually I got tired of competing for a wave each set. Back then on any give day of a swell at Ala Mo, it wasn't uncommon to be out surfing with 'Team Lightning Bolt", Gerry Lopez, Rory Russell, Mike Armstrong to name a few. Then throw in the town hotties like Dane Kealoha, Larry Bertlemann, Mike Kealoha, Buttons, Mark Liddell,and a few bulls from town and you got yourself a crowded spot. Even when I was friends with these guys, you still had to "scratch", for your fair share of waves. lol Eventually I moved over to 'Rockpile', but really hated that place at low tide.....get plent Vana. So, I moved my daily operation to Kaisers. I surfed the left out there. Nice fast walls that dumped into the shallows of Rockpiles. I surfed there everyday that there was a swell....but I was always into "dawn patrols". Why? I wanted to be eating a nice breakfast by 9:00A.M., and be all "bobo", by 10:30A.M.! I was there pretty much everyday that there was a swell. That was until I became a "Waikiki Beachboy", then I never surfed Kaisers again. As a Waikiki Beachboy, I could have pretty much any wave I wanted. Plus I was now getting paid once again to surf! Now I thought, why would I return to the Ala Mo area? Only to visit with old friends in the Parking Lot.
Back in the day, I'd go to Waikiki with a brand new 'Country Surfboard almost every weekend. Surf with it, then sell it at the old Waikiki Pavilion at Queens beach to the higest bidder. My good friend shaped for 'Country Surfboards', so he had me sell them for him. Once he started shaping for Brewer,and now had Brewer stickers on all his boards instead of Country Surboard stickers. At that point I was selling them like "Hotcakes".
Moved here about 5 yrs ago to Puna. First to HPP, but climate wasn't good for growing where I was at. I was down near the ocean. So plants suffered a lot! Mealy Bug & Heat my main enemy. But since I move to Hawaiian Acres,..everything has been gravey!
I'm a 30 some odd year veteran of Green Harvest Wars too. But all that has done is make me more convicted to my cannabis Goals. Hopefully one day we can "chew da fat" together?
peace & a hui hou,
Puna Bud