i guess you will have problems to proof that vero 29c is producing significantto minimize the amount of heat
Oh I like your idea and am in full support of it. Innovative and creative plus it makes sense.i guess you will have problems to proof that vero 29c is producing significant
less heat than cree2530. - just take a "ballon" and measure your vero 29c @ even lower current
as 163mA - you always will produce a lot (70% ~) of heat - even with led light.
I see it like this: incandecent lamp produce ~90% heat
HPS ~80%
LED ~70% .
So only ~30% of your electricity power is converted to light.
You have 1 million different led chips that can deliver more or less light under more or less optimised conditions inside this ~30% area.
Like some cars can do 1000 KM with 30L of fuel and others only 100 KM.
But the good news is: With coolmac watercooled led system it`s so easy and cheap
to use this heat power and integrate it to life.
Coolmac watercooled is able to store 60% of the electrical power(80-85% of the generated heat power) as hot water.
Your previous 30% efficiency can triple up to 90% .
Coolmac is also a patented revolution in led light tecnic, because heat management reach a new dimension.
Thermal grease becomes history and heat transfer a new definition with 10% light efficiency gains only by lower Tj. .
In my case with only 300W lamp i can produce enough hot water for 2 persons.
!!! The savings in hot water compensate the electricity bill of my led lamp. !!!
Energy-efficient electronical products can play an important role against climate change.
Do you need more arguments ?
Hi man - just get the courage to wrap it in a waterfilled condom - not inside !!! - in between.To be more accurate
Hi man - just get the courage to wrap it in a waterfilled condom - not inside !!! - in between.
I wonder that worlds great led companies are not able to seal a chip IP68 and hang it into water.
it`s not plane - and a chip have 2 sides, where heat is emitted -aluminum can
6031 is not a common grade, are you sure it's not 6061 ? 6000 series aluminum is expensive, look for 1100 series aluminum as it will have better thermal conductivity. It's way cheaper also, you should be able to buy 1/4" plate for what you're spending in 1/8" sheet in 6000 series. 3003 would be my second choice.....they sure are keeping you busy on the canuck forum ! lolOh I like your idea and am in full support of it. Innovative and creative plus it makes sense.
I am just not seeing the same with my setups using the Veros. 6 mounted to a 8x16" 1/8th 6031 al plate is measuring 37-39c at Tj in a 23c ambient environment when run between 30-46w each. If I turn off the fans, Tj reaches 74c which is still well within acceptable operating conditions.
If I use Fourier's law to calculate the conductive heat transfer, here is what I get using my numbers. Reference link:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/conductive-heat-transfer-d_428.html
q = k A dT /s
q = power (W, or J/s)
k = thermal conductivity of material (167W/m-k for Al 6031)
A= 8x16" x 2 (2 sides) 0.1651m2
dT = 16c (delta between ambient and Tj temps)
s = 1/8th" 0.003175m
q works out to 138944J which is 138944W/s.
Next, I have to figure out how long it takes to reach equilibrium going from ambient to 39c to get an understanding of how many watts per second are generating heat from the cob to the plate. Like you, I have found that it takes about 20 minutes to reach equilibrium pushing 46w to each cob. That is approximately 115.8w of heat transfer per second from all 6 cobs onto the plate.
115.8w/264w is 44% of input power being used as heat, or another way, the Light is 56%. According to the bridgelux spreadsheet, a 20C 3000k 80cri is 192lm/w at 46w, with a LER of 322, that's 59.6% efficiency.
My real world number is only 3% off the simulator which is probably within margin of error or can be influenced by other factors such as thermal resistance of material, etc.
So that is what I found. To be more accurate I can probably do a better job with the timing but I just took this first crack to make sure I wouldn't blow these things up. Disclaimer, I am not 100% on the math, method used, just the measurements taken being within the acceptable margins of error for the measuring device.
Feel free to critique, just like everyone else, I want to improve if possible.
6031 is not a common grade, are you sure it's not 6061 ? 6000 series aluminum is expensive, look for 1100 series aluminum as it will have better thermal conductivity. It's way cheaper also, you should be able to buy 1/4" plate for what you're spending in 1/8" sheet in 6000 series. 3003 would be my second choice.....they sure are keeping you busy on the canuck forum ! lol
I can tell you are having fun with them, the others not so much....haha. I am not entering that shit storm brother. They think you work for a LP, I have read a few of your posts in LED, it's real obvious you are a grower.Thanks for that advice! Definitely will have to look into it.
The metal shop guy said 6031 was pretty common but yeah, if the 3003 is better I will get it next time.
Yeah those ignorant fools in the Canadian Patients forum are an embarrassment to all Canadians. Just trying to do my part and raise the intelligence average over there up to something respectable.
Plus its fun. Join in if you want. Being in the LED section, its fairly obvious I support growing but they have labelled me an LP schill whatever that means.
A lot more efficientSo only ~30% of your electricity power is converted to light.
I can tell you are having fun with them, the others not so much....haha. I am not entering that shit storm brother. They think you work for a LP, I have read a few of your posts in LED, it's real obvious you are a grower.
The fundamental point here seems to be whether the heat emitted from light generated is the same as heat generated from loss, IMO it wouldn't be, but thats me(maybe raging stalk too) vs everybody else.
If the two are not the same, then it can't be true that 10 leds at 10% = the same heat as 1 LED at 100%... because more energy spent on light than on loss...
Where am I going wrong here?
it was a 1000W DE HPS, and closer to 830W but that was me letting the room get to a temp that it wouldnt increase. Ill retest when I get my 1000W COB setup or 900 whatever I decide on.@MeGaKiLlErMaN You said that your 800W Cob produced less heat than a 800W DE HPS, this is pretty much my entire point from the start...
Ok, from my experience over the years diff sources at similar wattage have produced diff room tempts too.it was a 1000W DE HPS, and closer to 830W but that was me letting the room get to a temp that it wouldnt increase. Ill retest when I get my 1000W COB setup or 900 whatever I decide on.
Where am I going wrong here?
just measured the heat of XTE royal blue - and i have bad news for you.An XTE Royal Blue is up to 57% efficient at 0.35A for example.
Oh, ok. Why in the world would I work for them? Work is for the foolish! Once you retire you live life.
But yeah, it is fun, that is why I offered up to share in the joy. I took a nap today for a few hours and now there is over 100 alerts! Talk about crazy people.