HELP - ARRRRGGHHHH - Pythium Again !!!!!! Want try CHLORINE Tried H202 !!!

Hi All

Been battling this last 3 grows BUT still comes back. Got chiller/lightproof/spotless grow/huge air pump/stones and been adding H202.

It has improved some what but new growth just starts rotting/going brown. I have RDWC with 100l system in total.

I want to try Chlorine after reading her -

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/286022-killing-root-rot.html

I have purchased some 4.8% Chlorine but not sure on dosages to cure then preventative measure.

Can someone help please on dilution.

Cheers

When I first bought my place I was the only person on the street. Now many people have moved on my street and all are pot growers. I am the only one with a flood and drain table. I pull off crop after crop and my neighbours always seem to have something bad happen to their crop before it is finished. I have never had any type of rot in my system. My system can also handle heavy sediment deposits without getting plugged up. My suggestion is that you switch to a system that is more reliable and closer to the way mother nature grows pot in the south Pacific. I have never had to use bleach or h2o2.

H202 10ML per gal every 3 days, Ive got the same shit and I found the reason I got it was superthrive witch I no longer use. the H202 just keeps it at bay doesnt solve
the problem.

This worked pretty well for me before I switched to coco.http://https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-how-breed-your-own-beneficial.html

Good Luck

I have had mant successfull grows but since had Pythium once it has never gone away. The system when growing without probs blows NFT away.

Hell - I do not want to use h202.

ympb - link does now work but think i can see beneficials, i want a total sterile system.


Need a schedule for 4.8% Chlorine to kill/prevent Pythium in 100L RDWC system.

Cheers

i used clorox which is 5.7% and there is a thread on here somewhere that says use 8 drops per gallon.... did it and changed the water every four days and its gone.

dart420 said:

i used clorox which is 5.7% and there is a thread on here somewhere that says use 8 drops per gallon.... did it and changed the water every four days and its gone.

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What is a 'drop' mate ? How much ?? I am in UK.

So i would use approx 9/10 drops per US gallon (is a US gallon = 3.78 uk litres)

Cheers

takeiteazy said:

What is a 'drop' mate ? How much ?? I am in UK.

So i would use approx 9/10 drops per US gallon (is a US gallon = 3.78 uk litres)

Cheers

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Look for the thread. I believe fatman started it. I don't think it is that many drops per gallon but I may be wrong. I thought it was more like 3.

DWC is a pain in the ass and you will continue to struggle with root rot issues. It's just the nature of the system. I shit canned my dwc setup and bought some flood and drain tables. Way less maintenance and my roots looks amazing.

Is there a reason you are so dead set on running a sterile reservoir? Just wondering because using beneficials in DWC seems to be much more effective than the sterilization products. I've tried them both in DWC and had much better success by far running the benes.

try hygrozyme

गांजा gañjā;5221161 said:

try hygrozyme

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hygrozyme doesn't kill pythium. It is an enzyme. It breaks down dead root mass and organic compounds. Best it will do is chew off his dead roots and leave healthy root tissue exposed. So things might look a little better, but he will still have pythium attacking his roots.

Tried Hygrozyme, waste time. I have had new roots come through with daily dose of H202 but then they eventually turn brown/mushy.

Is Pythium Systemic ? Is there not a fungacide i could use as they are in early veg ??

My system has it all now with perfect conditions for Pythium not to form, why does it keep reoccurring ??

Just do not know what to do tbh !!!!!!

The link was to the "how to breed beneficial microbes" thread on this site.

I wanted a sterile system too. I spent hundreds trying to keep it that way. I failed and kept failing. My entire efforts became cleaning. Then I broke down and tried the beneficials. Fixed. Good luck.

BTW I would not ad hygrozyme, thats when my problems kicked into high gear. Hygrozyme (in my experience) only works on a clean/healthy system, it will feed the bad stuff....

I also recomended this to a friend the other day, cleaned his op up in less than a week.

takeiteazy said:

Tried Hygrozyme, waste time. I have had new roots come through with daily dose of H202 but then they eventually turn brown/mushy.

Is Pythium Systemic ? Is there not a fungacide i could use as they are in early veg ??

My system has it all now with perfect conditions for Pythium not to form, why does it keep reoccurring ??

Just do not know what to do tbh !!!!!!

Click to expand...

What I learned was this....

You already have a non sterile enviroment whether you want it or not. Things are living and will continue to live in there. You need something living, and in greater numbers to kick the bad microbes out of your system.

I wish you the best of luck with your H2O2 and bleach...

Physan 20 is a good killer too....

At one time Pythium was considered a fungus but scientists have studied the various strains and reclassified it now as a pathogen. Growers know Pythium as a terribly invasive pest that rots root systems and is very tricky to eradicate.
What it does
Pythium attacks the roots of plants, turning healthy white roots to brown or grey. Root rot is often referred to as a problem of "damping off." Normally rigid root zones begin to slime as they are destroyed and clog the system with dead organic matter. An infected root mass is of course the perfect environment for pathogens to flourish and can quickly circulate to contaminate other plants, particularly in hydroponic growing systems.
While Pythium can and does cause damage in soil it is by its nature better adapted to live in water; certain varieties in fact produce small spores that move through the water, infecting plants throughout a hydroponic gardening system. Even problematic for growers is the fact that these spores are able to remain viable for a significant period of time so they must be especially vigilant when ensuring that their growth medium and tools are completely sterilized and the problem of Pythium truly conquered.
Prevention tips

• Start with a sterile hydroponic system. Prevention is the best offensive move. Hygrozyme, when used from the start, will help ensure that the environment is not conducive to pathogens such as Pythium.
• Ensure your water source is clean. Tap water is often treated in Canada and the United States, but growers using rainwater or well water or other sources must be conscious that the source may be contaminated. Again, treating the reservoir of a hydroponic system with Hygrozyme will work to break down dead organic matter and naturally sterilize the environment. It is beneficial for soil growers as well by ensuring that dead organic matter is broken down, faciliating absorption by healthy root systems.
• Keep the water and environment clean. Continue to use Hygrozyme at maintenance doeses to ensure dead organic matter does not build up and supply pathogens with a rich food source.
• Proper oxygenation is crucial. An oversaturated medium often leads to problems with Pythium because a lack of oxygen results in an anaerobic environment, perfect for encouraging rot and the ideal conditions for pests and pathogens. For soil growers, perlite will loosen the soil and promote drainage to help prevent problems in the root zone.
• The best temperature in a hydroponic environment is around 68 degrees. Lower and the plant roots don't absorb nutrients as well; higher and pathogens will flourish. Note that salt or heavy metals in the water will decrease saturation levels and result in a more welcoming environment for pathogens.

How to get rid of Pythium

• Think clean. Rid the area of all organic debris such as leaves or stems, paying attention to the plants, your floors, the sides of the reservoirs - every place you can see. It must be removed from the area to ensure recontamination does not inadvertantly occur.
• Be sure to sterilize absolutely everything that could come in contact with your plants, from pots or gardening tools to your clothing or buckets for water. Often people forget about items such as cleaning rags, hoses or PH testers.
• Add Hygrozyme to your water so that any lingering dead matter is broken down and the area becomes inhospitable for problematic diseases or organisms.
• Quarantine new plants to ensure they aren't bringing pests or pathogens with them to the now clean and sterile grow area.
• Set up a schedule for cleaning everything so that you don't fall behind or forget. Vigilance is essential or you could quickly be overrun.
• Just as we're told to wash our hands to avoid human diseases, be sure to wash your hands frequently to minimize the risk of spreading contagions around your plants and equipment.

Stubborn case strategy

Rather than using chemicals that could be harmful to people and the earth and leave behind residues that can further damage plants, we recommend using Hygrozyme in maintenance doses. Other enzyme concentrates contain bacteria to break-down organic matter but Hygrozyme does not. Why introduce potentially harmful bacteria if you can use Hygrozyme's non-toxic formula that is safe for any plant and is OMRI certified?
Most importantly, know when to start fresh. Pythium can be extremely difficult for the most experienced of growers to battle. For this reason prevention is the best strategy; if you don't get every bit of the Pythium pathogen out of your grow area it could come back with a vengeance. If you need to, cut your losses and start with a thoroughly clean and sterile grow environment and fresh plants. Plan to use Hygrozyme from the very start to keep everything clean from dead organic matter and the roots healthy, sterilize everything properly regularly and always be careful to keep absolutely everything clean.

I'm going to give you some advice it's two products SM-90 and Dutch Master Zone...if that doesn't stop it dead then bleach isn't going to do anything. They will help the plants take up more nutrients and fight the pythium. But you will need to clean everything off and the roots of the affected plants to give these products a chance to work. And I tried everything before I found these products. Even tea tree oil...I hope this helps...oh and this stuff last along time like 4 full grows in my 26 gallon res. good growing

Icannabis said:

I'm going to give you some advice it's two products SM-90 and Dutch Master Zone...if that doesn't stop it dead then bleach isn't going to do anything. They will help the plants take up more nutrients and fight the pythium. But you will need to clean everything off and the roots of the affected plants to give these products a chance to work. And I tried everything before I found these products. Even tea tree oil...I hope this helps...oh and this stuff last along time like 4 full grows in my 26 gallon res. good growing

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what did the tea tree oil do?

I have this same problem at the min
Although mine is affecting the stem
I 2 have been using h202
But I've just started using thornit canker powder
It's actualy 4 animals but it works
Because it's a type of the same bacteria
That affects the plants and animals the same
I have mix the powder in2 a paste and painted it on the stems
And everything seems 2 going well I've seen a difference in the plants in 2 days
Stems have started 2 gro and the rot is shrinking back
Also try this http://www.microbial.com.au/application.html
I've not used it myself but it's getting good reviews

if your having issue and H202 isnt solving it up the dose ive gone as high as 10ML per gal with no IL affect

i recently applied 2ml of a 6% bleach product (wasnt clorox) to my roughly 15 gallons of nutrient water. so far all the slime is gone and ive even begun to notice new root growth. After 4 days i redosed the plants with 1.5ml of bleach to be sure everything is dead (happened today). next im going to replace the nutrient water and build a beneficial bacteria tea.
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-how-breed-your-own-beneficial-48.html

I also corrected the room temperatures to below the 74 degree mark(where bacteria grows). so im assuming my water levels should stay nice and cold

Im also keeping in mind the beneficial bacteria will not like below 70degrees

takeiteazy said:

Hi All

Been battling this last 3 grows BUT still comes back. Got chiller/lightproof/spotless grow/huge air pump/stones and been adding H202.

It has improved some what but new growth just starts rotting/going brown. I have RDWC with 100l system in total.

I want to try Chlorine after reading her -

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/286022-killing-root-rot.html

I have purchased some 4.8% Chlorine but not sure on dosages to cure then preventative measure.

Can someone help please on dilution.

Cheers

Click to expand...

try this and stop using chemicals

[thread=361430]how-breed-your-own-beneficial[/thread]