Help diagnose leave plant problems

Hello,

Had another thread but wanted to post a new one with the most recent dead or dying leaves in hope it sparks something. I figure before I try to explain again what’s been going on a blank canvas for ideas might be helpful. Thank you for any help

Looks like they need nutrients. Also over or under watering could be contributing.

The Gram Reaper said:

Looks like they need nutrients. Also over or under watering could be contributing.

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Thanks. I was thinking that too but I have top dressed quite a bit. But being new I really don’t know. 2 are great and 2 are line that. Possible slightly over water but would be as often not too much cause I have fabric pots. I just gave them a flower top dress the other day as well

Anendola2001 said:

Thanks. I was thinking that too but I have top dressed quite a bit. But being new I really don’t know. 2 are great and 2 are line that. Possible slightly over water but would be as often not too much cause I have fabric pots. I just gave them a flower top dress the other day as well

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I am not much help on top feeding but you might be able to make a tea so the plant absorbs it easier without having to give them so much water.

The Gram Reaper said:

Looks like they need nutrients. Also over or under watering could be contributing.

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Agreed looks like Calmag deficiency and nitrogen/phosphorus deficiency. There are also signs of nutrient burn (burnt leaf tips upper end of plant) there could be some ph lockout going on.. It's really hard to say. I would try to just feed them per w/e bottle you have @ 100% and add in some CalMag if you haven't already.

its an organic grow. But the base soil was not amended heavily.
They look worse today and are moving downhill way faster then they were before. It’s water day today worse case tomorrow. I thought I had lots in the pots for food.
I tried giving the worst one a balanced bottle feed to see if it helped at all 5-11-11. Well I feel like it looks like it’s trying to get green it is really hard to tell if it’s that or getting yellower throughout. I don’t use liquid ferts except fish emulsion. I had the morbloom from some of my garden plants.
In side of caution of nute burn and through suggestions my thoughts are give them a full watering which is anywhere from 8-14 up to 18 ish gals give or take to get these 35 fabrics full and just run, 1/8 tea silica, 1 table molasses, & 1/4-1 teaspoon epsom. That would feed them cal, mag, and should help if that what they need. I just don’t know is that aS quick As a organic or hybrid type cal/mag. At least this solution wouldn’t put stress on a out of balance or burned situation would it ? Foliar spray are out as I’m beginning 4th week of flower so it’s in the water now or it waits till next watering or an addition top dress but I’m kinda out of room in the pots.

I have lots and lots and lots of oyster shell in my mix and use with most dressings so I would think I have enough calcium. My humates acid also have both but used less. Well I think lots. Being a mix of living soil, promix organics and HP, and composts along with other stuff I would think it would buffer that.
Man it’s so easy when it’s going good and tricky when they start messing up.

Here are morning pics. Ugh. So much time and money invested I just want them to make it through. Maybe bottles are easier lol. Naw I know it just having to learn.

Also another plant that had healed but still had wonky leaves starting progressing again as well but never seen a leave like this before last 2 pics

If it’s not nute burn then suggestions have been all over and hard to read between the lines.

Also. How the hell do you fix a lock out if it is in a organic grow and it’s amendments breaking down at different times lol ugh

I have killed every plant I have grown and I have never fixed problems like yellowing leaves in flower
Your organic wasn't done right and so you have deficiencies
You are supposed to kill them in the end
Good luck

Well that was nice and blunt,,, i like blunt lol. I know they are suppose to die just not yet. I also know i messed up the organic grow as i started late and did not have a solid plan, started with 1/2 the wrong soil that had food and did not get the hang of it til mid way and have a solid plan so been playing catch up since. think its a mix of too little/too much ? but who knows,,, guess we all have to learn.
do you mean you dont worry about fixing it in flower or its fucked so you dont ? ha ha thanks either way

never Ph anything untill mid grow. tap with filter on hose runs 7-8. I started phing with apple cider vinegar but read it is not good so now not sure what to do in that regard. 6-6.4 in and i only checked run off this last time and it was 7-7.2 ish. soil usually between 6.5-7.2 as it changes. blue labs soil ph pen so should be accurate. recently got ppm pen to check teas and waterings now as well but with organics not really suppose to matter but good to have on hand just to be sure

Anendola2001 said:

its an organic grow. But the base soil was not amended heavily.
They look worse today and are moving downhill way faster then they were before. It’s water day today worse case tomorrow. I thought I had lots in the pots for food.
I tried giving the worst one a balanced bottle feed to see if it helped at all 5-11-11. Well I feel like it looks like it’s trying to get green it is really hard to tell if it’s that or getting yellower throughout. I don’t use liquid ferts except fish emulsion. I had the morbloom from some of my garden plants.
In side of caution of nute burn and through suggestions my thoughts are give them a full watering which is anywhere from 8-14 up to 18 ish gals give or take to get these 35 fabrics full and just run, 1/8 tea silica, 1 table molasses, & 1/4-1 teaspoon epsom. That would feed them cal, mag, and should help if that what they need. I just don’t know is that aS quick As a organic or hybrid type cal/mag. At least this solution wouldn’t put stress on a out of balance or burned situation would it ? Foliar spray are out as I’m beginning 4th week of flower so it’s in the water now or it waits till next watering or an addition top dress but I’m kinda out of room in the pots.

I have lots and lots and lots of oyster shell in my mix and use with most dressings so I would think I have enough calcium. My humates acid also have both but used less. Well I think lots. Being a mix of living soil, promix organics and HP, and composts along with other stuff I would think it would buffer that.
Man it’s so easy when it’s going good and tricky when they start messing up.

Here are morning pics. Ugh. So much time and money invested I just want them to make it through. Maybe bottles are easier lol. Naw I know it just having to learn.

Also another plant that had healed but still had wonky leaves starting progressing again as well but never seen a leave like this before last 2 pics

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Is the 5-11-11 the morbloom fish fert?

How many times have you fed it with this?
Have you kept records of when and how much you used of the bloom nutes?
Do you know the e/c or ppms of the fish fert when added to water?

Kushash said:

Is the 5-11-11 the morbloom fish fert?

How many times have you fed it with this?
Have you kept records of when and how much you used of the bloom nutes?
Do you know the e/c or ppms of the fish fert when added to water?

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Hi, yes both alaskan products fish and morbloom. I only have used fish emulsion partly throughout the grow and yes I have daily notes in my phone of what and when i did for the most part anyways. I only tried morbloom once and not alot and feel it may have caused me problems but i do see alot of people use it. I heard it has metals and not really organic so was not sure and left it out and used other organic amendments to get my p and k. I could check what they are,,, I was not keeping track of any of that in the beginning but now have a blue labs soil pen and ppm reader however when i gave the bad plant that 2 gal mix the other day i forgot to check,,, i know its acidic just forget how acidic.

Throughout the beginning they got mostly molasses, kelp, bat guano, de, Epsom salt and organic granular all purpose food that was slow releases. As I learned more and plants grew I got into afalfa meals and insect frass along with mycos for veg and bloom, as time went one I got more amendments like the Gaia green all purpose and power bloom. I also got into using a little bokashi, langbeinite and when I ran out of my bat guano I got happy frog organic culture bat/seabird guano with microbes. I wonder if I over did the myco I added lots over time. I added lots of everything over time so it’s really hard to tell what is used up. I also started using Teas later on. Both regular teas and nute teas. Next time I will be on a much more strict schedule and not be learning as much or changing my plans part way. Always top dressed in a mix of soil hp, compost, and worm castings or at least 1 of. Last couple top dressings were my biggest “getting ready” for and “Into flower” dressings.

Anendola2001 said:

Hi, yes both alaskan products fish and morbloom. I only have used fish emulsion partly throughout the grow and yes I have daily notes in my phone of what and when i did for the most part anyways. I only tried morbloom once and not alot and feel it may have caused me problems but i do see alot of people use it. I heard it has metals and not really organic so was not sure and left it out and used other organic amendments to get my p and k. I could check what they are,,, I was not keeping track of any of that in the beginning but now have a blue labs soil pen and ppm reader however when i gave the bad plant that 2 gal mix the other day i forgot to check,,, i know its acidic just forget how acidic.

Click to expand...

Anendola2001 said:

Throughout the beginning they got mostly molasses, kelp, bat guano, de, Epsom salt and organic granular all purpose food that was slow releases. As I learned more and plants grew I got into afalfa meals and insect frass along with mycos for veg and bloom, as time went one I got more amendments like the Gaia green all purpose and power bloom. I also got into using a little bokashi, langbeinite and when I ran out of my bat guano I got happy frog organic culture bat/seabird guano with microbes. I wonder if I over did the myco I added lots over time. I added lots of everything over time so it’s really hard to tell what is used up. I also started using Teas later on. Both regular teas and nute teas. Next time I will be on a much more strict schedule and not be learning as much or changing my plans part way. Always top dressed in a mix of soil hp, compost, and worm castings or at least 1 of. Last couple top dressings were my biggest “getting ready” for and “Into flower” dressings.

Click to expand...

It might be to much phosphorus.
With a good organic soil the plants are treated more like they are still in veg at 2 weeks of flowering. Pics look about 2 weeks into flower. Bloom foods are generally added very slowly in the early stages of flower and then increased after the stretch is over at about 4 or 5 weeks into flower.

Just calibrated blue labs soil pen. Depending on top bottom or mid way they range from 6.5-7.4 in ph. Funny the best girl is in the higher ph range but they all are all over. 6.8-7.2 would be the tighter average range. I imagine from all the oyster shell flour and promix hp having lime that it would tend to be higher and I thought microbes like it at 6.8 range but still learning.
Still deciding how to water/feed or just waster and microbes molasses silica Epsom or plain Jane lol

Kushash said:

It might be to much phosphorus.
With a good organic soil the plants are treated more like they are still in veg at 2 weeks of flowering. Pics look about 2 weeks into flower. Bloom foods are generally added very slowly in the early stages of flower and then increased after the stretch is over at about 4 or 5 weeks into flower.

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Oh. So I had thought I was early. I thought being organic I wanted to get into bloom just before preflower or there a pita with lighter additions of bloom nutes then during preflower I thought another and then flower more of a 50/50 then the rest full bloom. I may have messed that up and did too early adding the power bloom and larger sizes of guanos in feed and teas.

I thought I was beginning week 4 yesterday but it’s just a guess from when preflower started and the day I saw buds with white tops I counted as 1st day of flower. But again could be off. If they are 2 weeks I really fucked up the timing lol but have had buds longer then 2 weeks

HI their
Pls help i dont know what is wrong with my plant the new leaf started to change its apperance during flowering in the 1st week what can i do????

Im no help but you can try different feeds on ea plant to speed up the curve,ewc tea on one epsom on another etc,good luck.