help! droops and curl

hey guys this is my first time using this site and my fourth indoor grow.

My berry ryder auto in soil has recently started to droop with the leaves curling down and have also gotten slightly pail. (slightly yellower but no spots or anything just lesser green then they were) I've heard adding epsom salt may help that?

I am currently at the end of week 3 in 2 gal pots under a 600w hps @ 75% for 18/6 hrs

I am using advanced nutrients products ph perfect sensi a/b and bud candy @ 350 ppm on my hanna meter

I recently swapped from tap water to distilled and am wondering if that may be my problem.
heat levels seem fine averaging 75-83 day 65 night with humidity average 35%

I am also using c02 pads and plenty of fresh air circulation.

This is my first time using auto's but i feel that they are also growing a bit slow.

Looking forward to feed back. Thanks!

Trying to upload some pics but no success yet but ill have them up as soon as i figure it out
 
yah maybe I should have gone with 3 gals. the lighting is 16/8 cuz there auto flowers and they were watered 15 hrs before the pics were taken. Im thinking maybe my ppms are to low? or its not adusting well from the tap to distilled water?

thanks for the input
 

Indoor Sun King

Well-Known Member
it seems that drooping is either too much water or not enough...and I have been fooled as to which is which....but I believe it's easier to recover from under watered than over watered
 
true I've actually come to the conclusion that It is being underwatered, I water every 3rd day. But most recently I watered 10 hrs later than normal. Im also thinking maybe the ph perfect advanced nutrients may not be ideal for soil since soil should be 6.3 where as hydro should be 5.7 which A.N.'s ph perfect line locks the ph @ 5.7
But this is my first time using any of the A.N. products so I could easily be wrong.
 

AimAim

Well-Known Member
it seems that drooping is either too much water or not enough...and I have been fooled as to which is which....but I believe it's easier to recover from under watered than over watered
Agreed. If underwatered you will see positive results within 2 hours and full recovery within 6 hours.
 

Adjorr

Well-Known Member
im using sensi grow and bloom in my grow to and they dont change the ph of my water at all, i have to ph it down to 6.5 myself.
your autos look about the same as my autos were at the same age.
If your underwatering the leaves will get crispier, if ur overwatering the leaves will feel limp and weak.
You should start your autos in the final pot they will be in as autos dont respond well to transplanting
 
yah if you are using the regular sensi bloom a&b it will not correct the ph, but the ph perfect line will lock it typically around 5.7 (if you have r/o or distilled water) but honestly im considering the regular non ph perfect line and just use up/ down to hit 6.3, but agreed on the watering opinions
 

Csufan97

Active Member
Yeah you really need to watch your ppm on an I use the 3 part base and it really jacks up my ppm I can't even get close to their recommended levels In flower my ppm is too high. Changing after this round to 2part gh.
 

Sand4x105

Well-Known Member
I borrowed this thread starter for more on the RH in soil question, here is UB answer:
I see it all the time, the first thing out of an in-experienced's grower's mouth is "have you checked the pH?" when it comes to a plant problem. If you don't know what the member's problem is, the forum favorite remedy - pH, is not going to help, nor make you look any smarter to the masses. pH adjusted water, especially using organic acids such as citric, will not have any long term corrective affect on most soils - soil is a powerful buffer.

Then it's the old "add epsom salts"....another forum paradigm that won't go away. Most folks only want to help and that's OK, but you can actually do more harm than good if the grower takes advice that is not correct.

pH - Cannabis is quite pH tolerant, it's a nutrient elemental uptake issue (not leaf cupping, wilt, lack of buds, etc.) and as long as the pH of the soil is not totally wacked out i.e. 5.0 or 8.6, you're OK. Hydro is different, a lower pH is usually recommended depending on foods used, type of medium, etc.

Get rid of the cheap moisture and pH meters - they do more harm than good.

Epsom Salts additions - Sorry folks, it's not a magic cure-all as you would like to believe. Since folks provide Mg in some form or fashion to their faves, Mg deficiencies are actually quite rare. An Mg deficiency will show up in the lower to mid level leaves as a chlorosis, a pale yellow or whitish-yellow background in the leaf with green veins. DO NOT OVER CORRECT with 2 tblsp./gallon if you are sure there is indeed a Mg deficiency. By over-correcting, you're gonna be doing another "aw shit" by inducing a deficiency of another element, say..... calcium. The concept is called nutrient antagonism. http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

Good luck,
UB
 
im using sensi grow and bloom in my grow to and they dont change the ph of my water at all, i have to ph it down to 6.5 myself.
your autos look about the same as my autos were at the same age.
If your underwatering the leaves will get crispier, if ur overwatering the leaves will feel limp and weak.
You should start your autos in the final pot they will be in as autos dont respond well to transplanting
hey adjorr I know you said your autos looked similiar size as mine at that age. Is your cycle complete? and if so how did your yields turn out per plant? I've been reading alot of very different results from people. anywhere from 10gs a plant to 75gs per plant. I'm sure it just varies upon conditions but if yours looked similiar at that im thinking mine may have similiar results.
 
thanx sand that thread was very helpful, I too have heard a lot about the epsom salt but I won't do that. The girls actually look alot happier today and i have not even feed them since the original pic? knida odd. but originaly I was keeping my ph @ 6.2 with the tap (the ph perfect doesnt work as well in tap. it wont lock at 5.7, at least in my case) how ever my guy at the grow shop said to use distilled until I can afford an r/o system and when I did I think it was the 6.2 to 5.7 jump that shoked them a bit. I am going to try 50/50 tap to distilled with nutes tomorrow morning and try to get the ph closer to 6 or 6.2. my tap has a higher ph than my distilled so i will toy with that and tell you all my results.

Thanks
 
Yeah you really need to watch your ppm on an I use the 3 part base and it really jacks up my ppm I can't even get close to their recommended levels In flower my ppm is too high. Changing after this round to 2part gh.
yah I was using a 2 part gh product that got the job done but from everything I hear if you can master the AN products you will be happier with your results. honestly I think everyone has some crazy method that just somehow works for them. where you in soil? I feel like hydro has much more set numbers to shoot for with the AN products than in soil, unless you just cut the hydro numbers in half like a lot of people say.
 

Adjorr

Well-Known Member
ive got a couple weeks to go still, heres some pics from a week ago and a cola close up from yesterday. im hoping for a good yield. most stories of low yielding auto plants are from 60day varieties and earlier generations of autos. we have whats sometimes refured to as "super autos" and should yield well. The important thing is not to top them or anything as they dont have veg time to recover in. (roughly 66 days old in first 2 pics, 73 days old in 3rd pic)
IMG_2090.jpgIMG_2091.jpgView attachment 2615411
 
Top