Help have can’t figure out what’s wrong

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
5756DDA7-D053-464E-B4F1-EB6B776BCD82.jpeg DA0A53BF-B45A-4FEE-A326-114E02EC92CC.jpeg 718E3281-D19B-4CB1-99A3-F28788A6C458.jpeg CB289899-7CC4-4AC6-BB7D-D90248E818FC.jpeg Hey guys I need some help can’t figure out what’s going on with my plants I’m guessing it’s a nitrogen deficiency

So I’m growing indoors in a 10x12x7 feet high

Im using fox farm ocean forest soil

With 1000w lights with a digital ballast set at 75% about 2 feet away from plants

My king Louie strain is affected a lot more than my sfv

I’m in week 6 day 5 in the flowering stage
Last photo is the sfv strain
 

n0thing

Well-Known Member
Looks more like pH issues but I can't really tell with your pics. Get some pics with the HPS turned off.

Also give more info please, nutes/pH/temps/RH?
 

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
Looks more like pH issues but I can't really tell with your pics. Get some pics with the HPS turned off.

Also give more info please, nutes/pH/temps/RH?
Lights off low 68-70 lights on 80-82 usuall around 78 tho
Humidity low 40 high 60-65
I use about 15 nutes can’t remember off the top of my head when I take pics tomorrow with lights off I will pm you my list
 

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
Lights off low 68-70 lights on 80-82 usuall around 78 tho
Humidity low 40 high 60-65
I use about 15 nutes can’t remember off the top of my head when I take pics tomorrow with lights off I will pm you my list
Water ph is 5.8 -6
Soil ph last measured few days ago 6.1 for sfv and 6 for king Louie
 

kingtitan

Well-Known Member
ph should be a bit higher for soil 6.3 to 6.8, 6 will get lockouts. Lights for 1000w should be a bit closer and bulb at 100% so the spectrum is not shifted.
 

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
ph should be a bit higher for soil 6.3 to 6.8, 6 will get lockouts. Lights for 1000w should be a bit closer and bulb at 100% so the spectrum is not shifted.
If I put them closer at a 100% instead of 75% it burns the buds that’s what happened last run I’ll get the exact measurements of the distance between light and buds
I’m using iPower 1000 Watt wing reflector lights
 

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
Another thing I wanna add is there inside 1 gallon pots I mad a mistake not transplanting them into bigger 3-5gallon pots
Maybe that’s the cause of yellowing as well?
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
What are you feeding them and how much? Did you recently put some extra bloom nutes on them?

Oh I see now. 15 nutes? Well there's you're problem.
Bummer
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Classic nute burn. You fried those plants. Less is better.
You don't need all that stuff.
Use the KISS method
Keep it simple stupid.
Done...
Good luck
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
This is my 3rd run now and I’ve never came across this problem
Way too much pk and additives. Especially for little pots. Did you use the larger pots during the other runs. Did you get premature yellowing?

I would suggest fresh unadjusted water to runoff until its clearish. I expect it's pretty yellow or brown at first.

Then add way less ppm's of a complete Grow formula only back and wait for improvement.

I would also trim off the yellow crispy leaves they can attract bugs and mold.

Good luck.
 

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
Way too much pk and additives. Especially for little pots. Did you use the larger pots during the other runs. Did you get premature yellowing?

I would suggest fresh unadjusted water to runoff until its clearish. I expect it's pretty yellow or brown at first.

Then add way less ppm's of a complete Grow formula only back and wait for improvement.

I would also trim off the yellow crispy leaves they can attract bugs and mold.

Good luck.
Straight RO water for the flush? And since I also use hydroponic nutes for my grow how should I go for the ph level I usually start at 5.7 for veg and in flower I start raising it slowly
 

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
I’m also going into week 7 so my ppm will drop since I will be using less nutes And my other 2 grows where fine and I used 1 gallon pots aswell
it did look like I had a root problem but no yellowing until about last week of flower which is normal right?
 

n0thing

Well-Known Member
Straight RO water for the flush? And since I also use hydroponic nutes for my grow how should I go for the ph level I usually start at 5.7 for veg and in flower I start raising it slowly
You adjust the pH based off of your medium. Soil needs to be 6.2-6.8. flush with 6.5 pH. Your soil was buffering your pH for you during the grow but now it's dropping to 6.1 and now you're showing problems. Stop adding so many useless additives, you're only adding more salts to your soil causing problems to your roots. There's a difference between finishing fade yellowing and deficiencies/burn yellowing.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Straight RO water for the flush? And since I also use hydroponic nutes for my grow how should I go for the ph level I usually start at 5.7 for veg and in flower I start raising it slowly
I don't like ro water for potting mix much. No alkalinity in it. It actually would be better for leaching with a low dose of nutes in it.

Professionals in food production test their source water and if too hard mix down to 150-200ppm by combining with ro.

Or they add acid like ph down but to nuetralize too much calcium carbonate. No need with ro water.

I would use tap water if I knew what was in it. If I had to use ro I would mix it with tap or add maybe 15% nutes. Salts are attracted to salts.

For your yellowing question below I like to keep them green to the end by tapering my nute concentration down as they ripen. And never overfed during the cycle for best results.

I add fertilizer at a low dose every watering once needed when the soil depletes of nutrients.

Plants also don't need any of the bottles you are using except a complete veg nute. The bloom nutes are not needed. It's a myth to sell more bottles.

Better to learn on a 1 part balanced Grow nute. 1 bottle simplifies things. Additives are only needed to cure specific deficiencies. And even then a base fertilizer usually takes care of it.

Hope this helped.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
This is my 3rd run now and I’ve never came across this problem
For the record. I wasn't calling you stupid when I wrote "Keep It Simple Stupid" I was just writing out what "KISS" stands for in case someone didn't know what the KISS method was.
Good luck with your plants.
 

Jacke30

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the help guys I will look more into the KISS method and go with that on my next run much appreciated for all the info
 

*BUDS

Well-Known Member
It is nute burn and the reason for early leaf yellowing/necrosis is nute/salt burn not N def.
Still , this is a very good grow you have here and the weight should be nice.
 
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