Help me identify this please, babies are suffering :'(

K

kushdoctorWolf

Member
Wastei said:
Well for starters you constantly use technical terms in the wrong context. You write that drybacks which only causes heavy EC rise and pH swings somehow is a positive marker since it "stresses the hell out of the plant"? The only result is stunted growth because optimal requirements for growth are not being met.

The plant doesn't in any way become lazy when optimal requirements are being met. Something you stated in earlier post, total nonsense. The roots die off with drybacks it doesn't cause "explosive root growth", again total nonsense.
Click to expand...
We want to stack the EC throughout the grow and you want the roots to be in optimal state to take up nutrients again.
The root network expands because it is trying to get to the little water left in the coco and therefore the plant grows rapidly.
Dryback in coco is max to 25% vwc
And saturation is at 50-55% vwc
So I think I got my terms right...
Don't dry out the coco, dry backs are the way to go.
Accompanied with proper flushes during the right stages of growth there won't be much of an EC rising.

Really look into p1 p2 p3 when growing hydroponics.

Basically like I tried to explain before
Your lights go on and the moisture content has gradually been going down in the coco
(So from lights-on until your first fertigation is phase 0.)
U can steer your dryback to the desired level by postponing your first fertigation.
Now starts phase 1,
You add shots of 1% of your VWC to your coco or rockwool.
In between each shot of water u wait about 30-45 seconds to prevent undesired run off.
This all allows the coco to slowly resaturate as this takes more than 30 mins.
Now you've reached your field capacity ( wastei that means the maximum amount if water your coco can hold )
So phase 2 begins
Phase 2 u have small drybacks throughout the day and maintenance shots to stay at field capacity...
Key is knowing when to stop the last fertigation to reach the proper level of dryback next morning.. this is called phase 3.

I hope you understand better now
 
K

kushdoctorWolf

Member
Wastei said:
Well for starters you constantly use technical terms in the wrong context. You write that drybacks which only causes heavy EC rise and pH swings somehow is a positive marker since it "stresses the hell out of the plant"? The only result is stunted growth because optimal requirements for growth are not being met.

The plant doesn't in any way become lazy when optimal requirements are being met. Something you stated in earlier post, total nonsense. The roots die off with drybacks it doesn't cause "explosive root growth", again total nonsense.
Click to expand...
Sorry mate Screenshot_20230412_002424_Samsung Notes.jpgScreenshot_20230412_002412_Chrome.jpg[/QUOTE]
 
K

kushdoctorWolf

Member
Toka416 said:
Looks good. Doing drybacks in coco is correct in mid to late flower. In veg u can run more wet. Just what ive l been doing works for me. For indoor in thailand id say good work. Cant see that being easy to pull off, broadleaf too. If your humidity is an issue maybe quick narrow leaf types will work better. But your looking good to me.
Click to expand...
Humidity hasn't been an issue yet only heat.. rainy season starts soon let's see how sealed the room is, might take up on your advice with the genetics switch by then.
Some of then are def a pain in the ass trying to shape them but most really have been way stronger than I had expected for a first run.
Now let's see what kind of bud I can produce
Thanks for the love I'll let the girls know and keep the work up
 
Wastei

Wastei

Well-Known Member
kushdoctorWolf said:
We want to stack the EC throughout the grow and you want the roots to be in optimal state to take up nutrients again.
The root network expands because it is trying to get to the little water left in the coco and therefore the plant grows rapidly.
Dryback in coco is max to 25% vwc
And saturation is at 50-55% vwc
So I think I got my terms right...
Don't dry out the coco, dry backs are the way to go.
Accompanied with proper flushes during the right stages of growth there won't be much of an EC rising.

Really look into p1 p2 p3 when growing hydroponics.

Basically like I tried to explain before
Your lights go on and the moisture content has gradually been going down in the coco
(So from lights-on until your first fertigation is phase 0.)
U can steer your dryback to the desired level by postponing your first fertigation.
Now starts phase 1,
You add shots of 1% of your VWC to your coco or rockwool.
In between each shot of water u wait about 30-45 seconds to prevent undesired run off.
This all allows the coco to slowly resaturate as this takes more than 30 mins.
Now you've reached your field capacity ( wastei that means the maximum amount if water your coco can hold )
So phase 2 begins
Phase 2 u have small drybacks throughout the day and maintenance shots to stay at field capacity...
Key is knowing when to stop the last fertigation to reach the proper level of dryback next morning.. this is called phase 3.

I hope you understand better now
Click to expand...
Coir is hydro and you're still talking nonsense! You follow manufacturers recommendations, instructions and numbers now for peat and soilless mediums? I thought you got it from growing on a commercial scale learning from the big boys?

Drybacks has no place in coir or any other kind of hydro. You're mixing data and instructions for a different medium than what you're currently using. "Resaturate coir" is what you do when you prepare coir bricks! "Stacking EC" is not even a thing, EC should be more or less constant in a optimal environment. Raising EC and fluctuate pH is not a good practice but you're free to keep doing what you're doing. But please don't give out bad advices and false information out of your own ass.

People need proper medicine and proper instructions from experienced growers. Please speak the truth and be respectful.
 
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A

ALPHA.GanjaGuy

Well-Known Member
Wastei said:
Coir is hydro and you're still talking nonsense! You follow manufacturers recommendations, instructions and numbers now for peat and soilless mediums? I thought you got it from growing on a commercial scale learning from the big boys?

I think you're lying and making things up as you go along to be honest. Drybacks has no place in coir or any other kind of hydro. You're mixing data and instructions for a different medium than what you're currently using. "Resaturate coir" is what you do when you prepare coir bricks! "Stacking EC" is not even a thing, EC should be more or less constant in a optimal environment. Raising EC and fluctuate pH is not a good practice but you're free to keep doing what you're doing. But please don't give out bad advices and false information out of your own ass.

People need proper medicine and proper instructions from experienced growers. You're a fool who just want a pat on the back since you already got everything figured out!
Click to expand...
I think they are just misunderstanding what they are reading, maybe you can take a look at it and explain to them what it means in a better way? The OP appears to be following the Athena DANKEMSHUNTER PROGRAM

 
Wastei

Wastei

Well-Known Member
ALPHA.GanjaGuy said:
I think they are just misunderstanding what they are reading, maybe you can take a look at it and explain to them what it means in a better way? The OP appears to be following the Athena DANKEMSHUNTER PROGRAM

Click to expand...
I think they instruct novice growers in this way to cause salt buildup in their mediums leading to regular flushes to reset the mediums leading them using more nutrients in their growing regime.

Advertisment, schedules and instructions from manufacturers are mostly there to generate maximum profit, not much else.
 
Wastei

Wastei

Well-Known Member
ALPHA.GanjaGuy said:
I don't run coco or athena but I understand what athena is saying on the chart/instructions a bit different than the op.. maybe I'm wrong but they are not talking about any crazy drybacks, overnight is the longest mentioned except one they do in veg.
Click to expand...
I think they're trying to make people think they're "reinventing the wheel". Feeding cycles is crucial for optimal growth but their numbers and instructions are all wrong IMO.

Way to high numbers and they're trying to fool you that the plant goes through distinctive growth phases. The only thing that should that stands out is in the early seedling stages and they don't even account for that.

Other than that it's all about starting low and increase EC throughout the grow. The plants tells you what they need and that's usually lower EC in the end stages of growth.
 
K

kushdoctorWolf

Member
Toka416 said:
Looks good. Doing drybacks in coco is correct in mid to late flower. In veg u can run more wet. Just what ive l been doing works for me. For indoor in thailand id say good work. Cant see that being easy to pull off, broadleaf too. If your humidity is an issue maybe quick narrow leaf types will work better. But your looking good to me.
Click to expand...
Definitely a challenge with heat, humidity and potential life trying to take over or consume the plant lol.
But so far so good.
Thanks for the love I'll let the ladies know and keep putting in work

Toka416 said:
Looks a bit yellow, unless thats the lights and camera.
Click to expand...
Probably the lights/camera , they have quite a vibrant green color now.
only 3 plants which show a slight yellowing and have some purple streaks down the stem. The rest is oke
 
K

kushdoctorWolf

Member
Wastei said:
I think they're trying to make people think they're "reinventing the wheel". Feeding cycles is crucial for optimal growth but their numbers and instructions are all wrong IMO.

Way to high numbers and they're trying to fool you that the plant goes through distinctive growth phases. The only thing that should that stands out is in the early seedling stages and they don't even account for that.

Other than that it's all about starting low and increase EC throughout the grow. The plants tells you what they need and that's usually lower EC in the end stages of growth.
Click to expand...
I agree with the latter, increase throughout the grow up until like 4/5 weeks into flowering in my case, and slowly start lowering it.
With maybe 1 EC at maturation...

So exactly as I stated, stack the EC.
And the plant does go through distinctive growth phases all because of hormones in the plant..

Nothing wrong with progress.
Maybe this is new to you but certain techniques come from big greenhouses with vegetables or whatever they might decide to grow.
Therefore a whole different type of money has been behind those studies and researches and they're proven and known to be effective for long time now.
 
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