Help needed! 60x60x150cm growtent

Hello,

I am a girl from the Netherlands and i am new here and want to build my own DIY led fixture.

I have:
1 : 60x60x150cm growtent
4 : CXB3590 (2700K 27G CB 80Ra 36V)
1 : CXB3590 (6500K 65E CD 80Ra 36V)
5 : Ideal holder 50-2303CR
4 : led glass lens KB-HB100-60 (60 degree)
1 : led glass lens KB-HB100-80 (80 degree)

I heard that the maximum ppfd per square feet is 1500.

My first question is; "How hard do i have to run the 4 CXB3590 2700K to achieve 1500 ppfd per square feet and How to space the leds with the 60 degree lenses?"

My second question is; "How hard do i have run the 1 CXB3590 6500K to achieve 1500 ppfd per square feet if the led is in the middle of the growtent with the 80 degree lens or without lens?

In general my question is how to use my leds and lenses optimal in a 60x60x150cm growtent.

you only need to run your 4-cxb's at 1050ma. I would go with a C1050B model meanwell driver, so you can dim it down to 550ma 50% as needed. I have found for veg I run the CXB3590 on a C1050B driver at 50% with an additional Royal Blue of 12-3W cree leds with an lpc-1000 meanwell driver for some nice vegetative growth with close nodal development and more bushy growth. In Bloom I shut down th Royal Blue and turn on the Deep Red for the home stretch. I also use InfaRed with the Deep Red for THC development, and Far Red for night time lights out 15 minutes. Hope that helps. I believe the ppfd is about 750-900/sf 1200/sf max is too much as a range. It is early so I cannot think metric yet this morning. Hope this all helps. Similar setup as a 3x3 tent. So it is a little high. I would use the 4-cxb's at the 1050ma and below. Higher than that jay cause bleacing of the plants.

Do you really need 1500 PPFD? To make use of that you would need to be an expert grower. After ~800 PPFD you gain less and less growth and more and more heat for more light. It becomes a bad trade off very quickly if you dont know what you're doing.

I don't know what is the best ppfd for growing weed. I have 4 CXB3590 2700K and 1 CXB 6500K (bins are listed in the OP) and a 60x60x150cm grow tent. If i run the 2700K leds at 1050ma each what will be the ppfd? If i run the 3500K led at 2100ma what will be the ppfd?

This image is from tastyled.com ( lots of good info on there)

You only really "need" 800 PPFD to grow amazing weed, everything after that is diminishing returns.

Your 5 cobs will be perfect for your area. Why not get a dimmable driver, you can have as much light as you want at every stage of growth?

I would like a dimmable ip67 driver for the 4 CXB3590 2700K and a dimmable ip67 driver for the CXB3590 6500K. I want to use the raspberry pi single board computer for adjusting the power via PWM and calculating the efficiency, ppfd, lumen/watt and other parameters. Are there spreadsheets available for the bins mentioned in the OP?

Damn, that sounds awesome. Are you going to monitor anything else, nutes or co2 maybe?

The cree site has datasheets and theres a spreadsheet/calculator somewhere on the site that will estimate ppfd and other metrics for a given setup.

Thanks to all for the help. I will look out for the spreadsheets and all the data i need to match good drivers and write some nice software.

This may help...
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-cob-led-calculator.890214/

I have the calculator up and running. That calculator is great work.

Okay. This is what i want to order after thinking a lot. Can anyone tell me if i did the calculatons right?

1 HLG-185H-C1050B. 95V to 190V, 1050mA, 199.5W, constant current. This driver can run 5 CXB3590 at 1050mA. At 1050mA the CXB3590DD36V5000K has a Voltage forward of 34.89V and the CXB3590CD36V3500K has a Voltage forward of 33.85V. I don't know the Vf at 1050mA for my bins and color temperatures but i believe that the driver is a good match.

I have 1 6500K and 4 2700K CXB3590. They probably have a different Vf at 1050Ma. Is it a problem to connect leds with different Vf on a constant current driver?

For cooling i want to use 5 Kingbrite 120mm pin fin heat sink for cob led CXB3590 40-50W, https://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/product/60494578075-803540819/120mm_pin_fin_heatsink_for_cob_led_cxb3590_40_50W.html . The are predrilled for the Ideal 50-2303CR led holder and the KB-HB100-serie 100mm lenses. At 1050mA the CXB3590 disipates about 35.6W and about 13.8 heatwatts so this heatsink must be enough

This is the rough calculation. If there are supra's spreadsheets for my bins and color temperatures i would like to hear where i can find them. If there aren't i would like to know if there is a forum about how to do the pixelcounting and extrapolating on the Cree datasheets.

Gromax 3590B said:

Okay. This is what i want to order after thinking a lot. Can anyone tell me if i did the calculatons right?

1 HLG-185H-C1050B. 95V to 190V, 1050mA, 199.5W, constant current. This driver can run 5 CXB3590 at 1050mA. At 1050mA the CXB3590DD36V5000K has a Voltage forward of 34.89V and the CXB3590CD36V3500K has a Voltage forward of 33.85V. I don't know the Vf at 1050mA for my bins and color temperatures but i believe that the driver is a good match.

I have 1 6500K and 4 2700K CXB3590. They probably have a different Vf at 1050Ma. Is it a problem to connect leds with different Vf on a constant current driver?

Click to expand...

I don't think there will be such a difference between various CCTs.
Anyway, it doesn't matter at all when you connect them in series with this driver. It will work fine. Make sure all the components you'll be using are rated at proper voltage (250V+).

The heatsinks and led driver are delivered at my neighbours. I hope i can get my package tommorow and i bought some TIM today. I think the thermal properties of the TIM are good enough. It contains no graphite that corodes the aluminium heatsink.

In a 2'x2'x5' tent you might find running them with no lenses or reflectors is better. Normally you'd be keeping the light with lenses close to 18" away from the canopy. With only 5 feet to work with (depending on how you grow) you could be better off taking the lenses off so your canopy can get closer.

I do a LST with scrog so my plants stay very low (max 90cm or 3 foot). The lenses are for protection of the led and maybe i want a higher tent or wardrobecloset to grow. The lenses where only $4.00 at kingbrite so i bought 5 of them with the driver and heatsinks to to experiment and justify the 40$ shipping cost. Are the lenses very bad for the efficiency? How much percent of the light gets lost by that lenses? I really do not know much of leds and light but i really believe that the light i am building will perform much better than the blue and red 160 watt spectrabox. The spectrabox burned all the lenses at all the blue leds. That lenses are black now. The spectrabox costed me about $260.00 two years ago. The best harvest i got from that light was 90grams. I try this new cob light without the lenses too.

The spectrabox used plastic lenses very close, almost on top of the 3watt leds.

The leds and the lenses are on the heatsinks. Everything is connected with 300-500V 0.5mm massieve copper wire.

The iDEAL holders are rated for 250V max and the solid copper wire for 300-500V. 5 CXB at 1050mA will draw about 175V so the components will work fine and safe.

What will happen if a DC wire gets lose and touches the heatsink? Is it enough to ground all the heatsinks to the ground of the wall outlet? Will the circuit breaker shut down the power if DC current touches ground?

Okay i did some research. If a DC wire from the driver touches the armature the armature gets energised. If you ground your energised armature to the ground of the wall outlet the circuit breaker will not trip because the circuit breaker only measures the differential of the A-C circuit (at least this is How it works in the Netherlands). The energie from the armature will flow to ground and hopefully the driver detects a short circuit so it goes in hick up mode. That seems a shitty solution to me.

Now i have to invent my own little circuit breaker on the DC Side of the driver to prevent the power to flow to ground in case of failure. The circuit breaker that is installed in my home will not trip so if i don't use a circuit breaker on the DC Side to stop the A-C Side, the current flows to the ground forever and that is not very efficiënt and safe.