help with plant issue!

So I have 4 white widows which are about 2 months old from day 1 of clone including the 7 days they took to root. The are very healthy and green and bushy as they were monster cropped and I feed gh flora trio anywhere from 1/2 to full strength every other watering.They are in soil that i mixed myself of store bought leafgro soil conditioner which is leaf litter compost, spagnum peat moss, perlite and garden lime. (I have used this mix throughout the entire grow.) I have them under 1 450w vipar spectra PAR, 1 250W VIPAR SPECTRA REFLECTOR AND 1 250W GALAXY HYDRO Led. I transplanted from 12 inch plastic pots to 7 gallon smart/fabric pots about a week in a half ago and now just 1 out of the 4 plants is having a taco/canoe effect on the leaves on top of canopy plus yellowing. My temps are 75-80 degrees with humidity 50%-70% lights are about 28 inches from top of canopy. I am positive this is not from heat stress as my temps and light height is fine. My first guess is that I may have added too much garden lime to this pot and it is throwing off my soil PH as I mixed each pot one at a time just eyeing up sprinkling in lime. My first trouble shoot is I PHED a gallon of water to 5.7 and poured it into my pot. I did this yesterday. Anyone habe any advise? I don't want to take to long to diagnose this issue as yellowing increases

I also used great white shark and super thrive during both of my transplants and I use 1/4 tsp per gallon super thrive once every few weeks and I have also added 1 tsp per gallon blackstrap molasses about 2 times during entire grow

I was going to say you seem to have some issue with heat as the top leaves are canoeing...lights seem to be a good distance. Second thought was ph, as this seems to be an issue with an immobile nute, issues come up with them at higher ph. I use pro mix and ph should be 'near 6' ideally..and when i was adding extra lime (came amended with it) to it early on, i had same issues..ph kept staying too close to 7 and it always caused issues with the top deep into veg and transition to flower. What kind of water are you using?

yeah I have had my lights alot closer in previous grow without any heat issues. I am using tap water now with a ph of 7.4. After adding nutes it drops ph to about 6.7-6.8 and I have just been rolling with that but when I water without nutes I I would just use the 7.4 ph water. I know that's a high ph but everything has been fine for 2 months with any issues except after this transplant the issue popped up and it's only in the 1 plant. The other 3 do not display any of these symptoms. I did cut the roots when I pulled the plants from the old pots. I scored an x in the sides with a razor as they were slightly root bound. just a little extra info I had a small issue with two spotted spider mites during the first month of the grow as these are clones from an outside grow. I used neem oil and castile soap for about 5 weeks as well as ran the plants upside down under the tub faucet 3 separate times when they were very small. This was very thorough

fyi.... When I mixed the new potting soil for the transplants I thought I may have added a little too much garden lime in the first place and now this issue pops up. This is my best guess as it is pretty much the only variable I have changed. I'm thinking about keeping watering with a low 5.5-6 ph water to see if it helps counter the soil PH

piffyinajiffy said:

fyi.... When I mixed the new potting soil for the transplants I thought I may have added a little too much garden lime in the first place and now this issue pops up. This is my best guess as it is pretty much the only variable I have changed. I'm thinking about keeping watering with a low 5.5-6 ph water to see if it helps counter the soil PH

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Try to find the water report for your tap water. The alkalinity of it is very important..as if it's high..then even if you ph it down..it won't matter, it will constantly buffer the medium towards 7 and above.

The other plants are fine though. Neutral pH shouldn't really cause issues with plants in soil. I have always used regular tap water without adjusting the ph

Do you rotate the plants or are they always in same position. Is the one affected, under what appears to be the stronger light? Still odd as that one is showing heat stress..it appears a bit taller. As for the soil, i thought you were using a sphagnum peat moss based medium..my bad.

so the plants got moved from a smaller closet after I transplanted and today is exactly 2 weeks since transplant. after the first 7 days i rotated the inside right plant to outside left position and I rotated the inside left plant to the outside right position. Today is the day to rotate again. I will swap each inside plant with the outside plant next to it and now going into the 3rd week they will each will have been in all 4 spots under the lights. The plant showing symptoms is in fact directly under my strongest light. After rotating them today I will find out if that is indeed the cause as the new plant I put j to that spot would start showing the same symptoms. I will be shocked if that is the issue as I have had that light as close as 16 inches from top canopy with absolutely s
zero symptoms of light or heat stress although it was a different strain!!! This is my first time with white widows

Blitz35 said:

Do you rotate the plants or are they always in same position. Is the one affected, under what appears to be the stronger light? Still odd as that one is showing heat stress..it appears a bit taller. As for the soil, i thought you were using a sphagnum peat moss based medium..my bad.

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Oh yes my b... I am using sphagnum peat moss in my medium but it's only 30-40% sphagnum peat moss with about %50 leaf litter humus compost and 10-20% perlite. Also I have read that leaf litter compost is naturally buffered at an ideal PH for marijuana. Do you know anything about this? This was in no part a reason I chose to use this compost as I just came across that info a few days ago but thought it was really intetesting

piffyinajiffy said:

Oh yes my b... I am using sphagnum peat moss in my medium but it's only 30-40% sphagnum peat moss with about %50 leaf litter humus compost and 10-20% perlite. Also I have read that leaf litter compost is naturally buffered at an ideal PH for marijuana. Do you know anything about this? This was in no part a reason I chose to use this compost as I just came across that info a few days ago but thought it was really intetesting

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I have not used leaf litter, but being it's an organic way to 'liven' up your medium, and it happens in nature, im sure the ph is balanced. As for being an ideal ph for 'marijuana', there is nothing made that is 'strictly' for marijuana, or for that one plant. Plants, in general, behave the same with regards to feedings...the ph range for weed, is also the ph range for most every other plant that grows around us..of course a few exceptions, but they all want the ph in pretty much the same range.

could my night time temps dropping into the 50s because lights go out and I have windows open in mid October while daytime temps are 75-80 being doing this and only really affecting the plant under the most powerful light because this is getting the most heat? I read that cold drops in temps really bring out heat issues????

I wasn't saying it was made for marijuana but that the ph of that soil was Ideal for marijuana and sure there is... there are acid and alkaline loving plants

I have never heard of cold causing heat stress? 50's is a bit low, but i don't see how that would cause the top on one plant to look as if it were light burnt/heat affected? Colder temps can give a slight purple tinge to the leaves most affected as it affects phosphorus takeup, but i wouldn't think 50's temps would cause your top to like like it does. Hope you get it worked out..again..ph of 7.4 going in is not ideal either..but you said it always worked for you, so i don't know. If you say it's not ph, and not the light or temps, then all that's left is feed more..i guess it doesn't have enough micros..not much else left.

the weird this is.... This was my youngest/smallest plant as I cloned this one a week later than the other 3. then in the 1 week of having it in that spot it grew muchh faster and more vigorous than the other 3 but it's showing those deficiencies at the same time. I'm kind of lost

No, I think it is the soil PH and didn't think it was heat stress. It shouldn't be micro' s as I feed feed anywhere from 1/2 to full dose gh micro. I still don't have down the watering sched yet either in these fabric pots. This is my first time using them

Blitz35 said:

I have never heard of cold causing heat stress? 50's is a bit low, but i don't see how that would cause the top on one plant to look as if it were light burnt/heat affected? Colder temps can give a slight purple tinge to the leaves most affected as it affects phosphorus takeup, but i wouldn't think 50's temps would cause your top to like like it does. Hope you get it worked out..again..ph of 7.4 going in is not ideal either..but you said it always worked for you, so i don't know. If you say it's not ph, and not the light or temps, then all that's left is feed more..i guess it doesn't have enough micros..not much else left.

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Amplifies heat stress symptoms not causes them*

I did a flush of all 4 plants as another plant started showing early symptoms of the same things. I'm pretty sure I had nutrient lockout due to PH being off. Pulled each 1 at a time and stuck them in the tub. The runoff was brownish red and I flushed untill the runoff was clear

That brownish colorl is the color of peat moss breaking down..looks like an iced tea color. Be careful with flushing through peat moss..the more water you put through it, the faster it breaks down and can turn acidic quite fast, especially if not amended with lime.

good tip... this is the medium I have used in the past and flushed it just the same and I always use lime but the thing with me is I never know how much to use. I amended with lime when I mixed up these 7 gallon pots