yeah one thing to keep in mind is to change too many variables in a too short of a time can also become a huge stress factor, for example removing a pot from its place, then putting it back (but at another angle towards the lamp) then the plant has to adjust again.
Another thing is, it's better to have small pots on young plants, then do multiple uppots. There've been scientifically studies and they proove, that this way an indoor rootsystem develops better.
Also, less-optimal circumstances can be overcome by a plant's internal control system quicker, plus mismatches can become apparent/visible quicker, and can be dealt with quicker (by transplanting sooner to another medium, or doing bottle-feeds....)
Here's an example of how a plant can influence the pH of the rootzone; in this case the form of nitrogen makes the difference:
View attachment 4703697
^^ left is ammonia, right nitrate ^^
(from "Plant Nutrition" by Prof. Dr. Schubert)
pH-stable forms of N-feeds usually contain both, or are based on Urea, which breaks down into both
2 years ago I did some grows based on BB Allmix (which is 30% perlite, 10% worm castings, 5% Pre-Mix and 55% peat) and mixed that with 30% of their pre-charged cocos (btw is the Coco you use pre-charged/pre-buffered or not?). It worked well, I treated it like soil, and watered every 3-4 days 4-5l per 14l pot, but in an organic grow the microbes do have a say plus I didn't pH down, as the BB ferts are acidic anyway.
Aynway, you have alot of pots over there
so you can try to treat them a bit differently (time of watering, strength of EC, or pH in) and then see, what works best. I guess once the plants get bigger and have an adequate root system established the problem
may sort itself out from alone...
