Hi. Question about spectrum.

Hi all, thanks for looking.
I am using one of these 125 watters ( along with other lights etc) and am getting pretty nice results to be honest, however, I can't help but notice a few things about the spectrum and am hoping for some insight.

200 - 280 nm UVC ultraviolet range which is extremely harmful to plants because it is highly toxic.
280 - 315 nm Includes harmful UVB ultraviolet light which causes plants colors to fade.
315 - 380 nm Range of UVA ultraviolet light which is neither harmful nor beneficial to plant growth.
380 - 400 nm Start of visible light spectrum. Process of chlorophyll absorption begins. UV protected plastics ideally block out any light below this range.
400 - 520 nm This range includes violet, blue, and green bands. Peak absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and a strong influence on photosynthesis. (promotes vegetative growth)
520 - 610 nm This range includes the green, yellow, and orange bands and has less absorption by pigments.
610 - 720 nm This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding)
720 - 1000 nm There is little absorption by chlorophyll here. Flowering and germination is influenced. At the high end of the band is infrared, which is heat.
1000+ nm Totally infrared range. All energy absorbed at this point is converted to heat.
http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/guide3.shtml/accessory/lights.shtml (Source for above)

The attachments are of the spectrum chart on the side of the box that my lights came in. It seems to me that it actually is NOT optimal, and judging just from the colors alone seems to be high in green, though I may be totally wrong and would like a second opinion.

They go in order starting at 3 days from germ, 6 days then today at 10 days from germ ( last two are today).

Yes they aren't very efficient. Green is the most visible light to us but its not very good for growing plants. Even HIDs aren't very efficient. They get the job done tho. If you looking for light in the right spectrum there 2 routes I know of. One is leds which you can basically mix and match very narrow wavelengths of light until you get the right balance for growing. For florescent lights there are t5s made for coral lighting that emit more specific bandwidths of light. See actinic or red sun t5s. If you look up a graph for PAR absorption by plants and overlay the emited graph for light you want to use you can do a pretty good job of aligning the two so your setup is emitting the maximum PAR light while using the least amount of watts.

Take that light back and get something better

Why would someone market a bulb for growing plants and display on the box how ineffective it is? Either way, thanks for the tip bostoner.

Have you looked into a 150w HPS? If you're looking at a 125w, why not just the extra 25w and get almost double the lumen output? I just went through the same dilema; but after buying the 125w CFL.... trust me the HPS has been working better. (if you got the room; just go for the 250 though... just MHO on that)

I agree with the poster above, about same wattage but you'll yield a lot more with HPS.
If wattage (cost) is not important to you, use your current CFL as a supplement to get more blue photons. I'm a believer in full spectrum, even if the blue is a lot weaker (lumens) - the photons are constantly hitting your plants anyway and I belive they sense it.

I am already running a 400 watt hps in another area of the house. I am using a small closet in my room and don't want to vent into the wall. Using cfl's I can just vent into the room, and while it may raise the temps a bit, it never gets uncomfortable in this room nor is the temp in my box ever more then 85. Atm I'm using 295 watts @15k lumen, and am getting pretty ok results. With some training etc I can prolly keep this exact setup for the entire grow. Anyways, you should not expect HID bulbs to emit anywhere near the QUALITY of light that fluorescents do, and you should not expect fluorescents to emit anywhere near the INTENSITY of light HID's do.