HLG 650R tips??

Without knowing those environmental factors its impossible to tell with any accuracy IMHO.

The HLG 650 is a beast! Letting environmental factors go out of range like RH or PH of nutrients, and things can go downhill fast.

Raising PH levels to 6.5 to 6.8 to make sure calcium and magnesium are readily available will do more than increasing the actual nutrient concentration.

However, its best practice to increase base nutrients if a deficiency is noticed rather than say adding a cal/mag supplement that can throw off ratios and cause more problems/confusion in diagnosis, and toxicity in nutrient levels.

The 650 Rspec V2 is one of the top lights on the market IMHO.

Created so many post forgot to post some info. Using Advanced Nutrients PH Perfect system, (have used this before with excellent results, also use their cal mag, Big Bud, Overdrive and Bud Candy. PPm during flower kept around 800ppm. 100% water change weekly. Room kept at 65-70 during flower and 50-55% humidity.

I would never run that light at more than 320watts, as that is where it shines for me. But I really don't like that light because realistically it can only grow 4 plants. Sure you can put more under it, and run it at around 480watts to cover more plants, but I would rather run just 4 instead of say 6, because for me running just 4 while using just 320watts, gets me just as much as running 6 under 480 watts. Yeah, running samsung tech in the most effiant way, will always give you the better result. So, in other words, max power when using samsung tech, equals only wasted power! Anyhow, you didn't say exactly what went wrong, so could you explain what actually happened to your plants / grow.

Oldenred1 said:

Created so many post forgot to post some info. Using Advanced Nutrients PH Perfect system, (have used this before with excellent results, also use their cal mag, Big Bud, Overdrive and Bud Candy. PPm during flower kept around 800ppm. 100% water change weekly. Room kept at 65-70 during flower and 50-55% humidity.

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Did you start up a new grow yet?

Bullet2112 said:

Without knowing those environmental factors its impossible to tell with any accuracy IMHO.

The HLG 650 is a beast! Letting environmental factors go out of range like RH or PH of nutrients, and things can go downhill fast.

Raising PH levels to 6.5 to 6.8 to make sure calcium and magnesium are readily available will do more than increasing the actual nutrient concentration.

However, its best practice to increase base nutrients if a deficiency is noticed rather than say adding a cal/mag supplement that can throw off ratios and cause more problems/confusion in diagnosis, and toxicity in nutrient levels.

The 650 Rspec V2 is one of the top lights on the market IMHO.

Click to expand...

Yup, just finished a change over in a building to HLG 600 R. I could not see the value in spending more on the 650 Diablo just to gain about 240 more active ppf.... 1700 and change is over kill and the 600's are still putting out over 1500 and change.

Although, I have never had an issue with them or the 550 V2's with H chips....


I blew a driver by accident (MINE) and replaced with the Invotronics EUD600S280 that they use on the 600 boards.
This was a board with the same Samsung chips, and in the same increased # of them, as in the 600. Wowser, she's bright now!

Having high lite output.
Means that you must control all aspects of your environment tighter. That includes feeding.

This a very powerful light and increasing light needs to happen in very small increments, especially for seedlings. For me, a kilowatt meter is essential. On my 650R, what I thought was the 50% detent on the adjustment knob is actually over 500 watts from the wall while full power is 630 watts. I've found increases of about 10% (umols) works well. I often increase about 4-5 times a week.

I calculate umols using the ppfd charts at https://horticulturelightinggroup.ca/blogs/news/hlg-650r-ppfd-charts-at-different-heights?shpxid=4994af67-46d9-4b02-be1f-e1d905532a81.
I created a spreadsheet where I can input watts and get an estimate ppfd for any distance from plants on the chart. It's not 100% accurate but it's close enough. I use a phone app for backup but I trust my calculations more.

I can run the light much brighter than I expected (22" at full power during mid-flower no CO2) but you need to be gentle on the way there.

I do find that the internode length is very short when I apply high ppfd during veg with this light. I found this thread while investigating ways to get a little more stretch.

Edit:
I should mention that I just borrowed a CO2 meter from our library and the reading in the tent was 1000-1160 ppm so that will definitely help the plants use much higher levels of light.

Now I have to deal with the high levels in our living space. Starting to investigate whole home ventilation.