HLG vs HGL Side By Side

Who do you think will win?

  • HLG

    Votes: 68 90.7%

  • HydroGrow

    Votes: 7 9.3%
  • Total voters
    75
  • Poll closed .
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Kushash said:
lol!
That is cool!
I avoid making decisions on plant diagnosis in the problem section when I see purple stems because so many people feel it is strain dependent when again it could be a deficiency.
I was wondering if anyone can tell the difference between a deficient plant and a plant that naturally develops purple stems.
I figure there should be a way of telling them apart and would be curious to learn the difference.

Would you say the answer is no they can not be differentiated?

What are your thoughts @lukio?
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The purp or red will be where the light jits the stems, green on the other side, at least till it gets bad & consumes.
Think sunburn.
 
if the penetrator does half decent...

and why shouldn't it..most cheap china burples will do ok if you throw wattage at the plants

.it just means that the 150$ Galaxy will SO kick its ass
 
hybridway2 said:
The purp or red will be where the light jits the stems, green on the other side, at least till it gets bad & consumes.
Think sunburn.
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Important tip for the sticky traps is knowing when they become less affective.
The cheap two sided ones I get and line the inside of the pot with get sprayed from misting fan leaves and tend to be good for about 3 weeks till I replace them. I have never had this level of control over gnats till I started changing them on time.

Been a while since I made any sprays for gnats.
When I had a problem I'd mist the top soil with capt jacks Spinosad.
Few days later I'd mist the top soil with pyrethrin.
Few days later I'd mist with an essential oil. The one I have now Bee safe 3 in one and uses sesame oil.

Sprays made from concentrate of pyrethrin or spinosad should be made in small batches that are used the same day. Can't make a big bottle and use it for a few weeks, it's best mixed the day it is used.

This trap was put in 2 days ago, I might just beat them this time and I think the sticky traps are playing the key roll in doing it.


@Randomblame - 6 weeks 12/12. Still think she's going to discard these fan leaves?
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The 2 sided sticky yellow cards i order off amazon in sheets cut into some squares and stick them onto popsicle sticks and stick it in the coco below the canopy so it's above where watering will cause issues.

I use a 1 gallon sprayer i mix up n 1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide 3 parts phed water and mist the top of my coco enough to drench the top inch or so. The peroxide kills the larva on contact and after about 30 seconds turns into oxygenated water.

After about 4 daily treatments along with the yellow cards i rarely see them and just repeat the spraying if they ever come back.
 
OneHitDone said:
So, I lay down the challenge to you bro - Join in on my Lettuce Challenge thread and show us all just how bad ass of a grower you are with your led's and grow a head of lettuce half as good as what I am producing in my spectrum trials :sleep:
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Thats right, what he said!
 
ChiefRunningPhist said:
I'm not sure that it can change to green once its been purpled. So correct me if I'm wrong here guys, but if your purpling is only up 1/4 of the way, then it's already been corrected and been growing green for the last 3/4.
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MH Hortri Daylight blue cures it over time. Not to long. 1 wk new green will grow & withinnthe next 2 all will be green . Providing you're doing everything else right
 
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