How do I ventilate 4000w of air cooled HPS? Or convince me to go LED

The new spaces are three separate 2.5mx2.5mx2m tents.

How do I fit in 4000w of light into each AND keep temps in the low 20's?

I know there will be people call me crazy..shame I didn't document the end of my recent grow (some early stuff on here somewhere) but I got 2.8kg dry from 6 plants, dwc and 3000w of hybrid LED and HPS in the the same space. Mad heat and humidities tho with poor extraction to 1000watters. I can't see a way of cooling 4 1000w HPS lights in that space...and no I can't get a bigger space. Gotta piss with the cock you got.

I will go LED all the way if someone can prove their worth at keeping up with 1000w HPS. That would be all the heat issues solved....

Ideas please people! lets try and keep it constructive- there's more than one way of doing things!

led man, I am a a pretty new grower, however the issues are all the same... I went diy cree led cxb3590 and ill never look at hps again.

Funny you say that... I had literally made up my mind a few hours ago that I was going G.O.D 16 and Alien RDWC pro
Small upgrade from my humble IWS DWC

pfchangs said:

led man, I am a a pretty new grower, however the issues are all the same... I went diy cree led cxb3590 and ill never look at hps again.

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Word.

LED isn't just one thing, it's a whole spectrum- of technology, spectrum and efficiency.

The new stuff is the good stuff. Run it softly and it will slaughter HPS both in yield and quality.

I just looked at the results of a side by side between 400W of HPS and 200W of T5 HO. HPS sucked. Bad.

There just isn't any place in the plant's life cycle where a fuller spectrum isn't better.

Newby here, I recently purchased a spider 600 LED with a 4x4 gorilla tent and now I have 4 autos at 5weeks & they are killing the 4 autos that I just grew in a 400w ceramic Hallide when they were at the same age, but since this is my first grow w the LED it's still to early to know for sure.... I'm loving what i'm seeing so far though & loving no heat issues & low electricity!

From the research that I have done, LED's can be useful but have not been the "Pro's" choice just yet. Many of the commercial operations I have been in have used a few, but they haven't switched over to all LED's. LED's cover cooler spectrums better than HPS, while HPS cover the warmer spectrums better. If you need to cool 4000k, you could consider buying 4 cool tube hoods of some sort and ducting them into a single exhaust. Works great for one of my 10x10 rooms.

xmatox said:

From the research that I have done, LED's can be useful but have not been the "Pro's" choice just yet. Many of the commercial operations I have been in have used a few, but they haven't switched over to all LED's. LED's cover cooler spectrums better than HPS, while HPS cover the warmer spectrums better. If you need to cool 4000k, you could consider buying 4 cool tube hoods of some sort and ducting them into a single exhaust. Works great for one of my 10x10 rooms.

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That's because the new COB LED hasn't had a chance to penetrate the market as yet. After the blurple false start, LED has a credibility hill to climb with the commercial industry.

I'll be building and running the sort of COB LED array a commercial facility sized operation would take seriously and we'll let the chips fall where they may... literally speaking!

ttystikk said:

That's because the new COB LED hasn't had a chance to penetrate the market as yet. After the blurple false start, LED has a credibility hill to climb with the commercial industry.

I'll be building and running the sort of COB LED array a commercial facility sized operation would take seriously and we'll let the chips fall where they may... literally speaking!

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So your going to be replacing 15k of hps to a cob array that can produce 30 pounds?

a mongo frog said:

So your going to be replacing 15k of hps to a cob array that can produce 30 pounds?

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Shhhhh... don't tell anybody. 5kW, and if it pulls over ten I'm guessing folks will take notice; if it pulls fifteen, I'll have everyone's attention.

ttystikk said:

That's because the new COB LED hasn't had a chance to penetrate the market as yet. After the blurple false start, LED has a credibility hill to climb with the commercial industry.

I'll be building and running the sort of COB LED array a commercial facility sized operation would take seriously and we'll let the chips fall where they may... literally speaking!

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What are some of these new LED's you're talking about? Every grower in the world would love to have cheaper electricity, more spectrums, and cooler temperatures. I would change me setups in a heartbeat if I knew it would give me the same yield as my HPS. As far as the current products on the market, the original author should do well with a combination of both HPS and LED. Again if you are looking to cool your hoods, you can get cool tubes or an AC and better circulation.

xmatox said:

What are some of these new LED's you're talking about? Every grower in the world would love to have cheaper electricity, more spectrums, and cooler temperatures. I would change me setups in a heartbeat if I knew it would give me the same yield as my HPS. As far as the current products on the market, the original author should do well with a combination of both HPS and LED. Again if you are looking to cool your hoods, you can get cool tubes or an AC and better circulation.

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You mean you haven't heard yet? There hps killing machines.

The measures needed to lower the temperature inside to the lower 20s will highly depend on your outdoor temperature. You could either get fresh cold air inside when you pull air from the top of the room outside or you could run the lights in air cooled reflectors with a vent and ducting that draws air from the outside and pull it to outside after cooling the lights, then you use air condition to cool the room to the temperatures you want and add CO2.
There are the most power conservative ways to get the job done.

xmatox said:

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Chill down there partner, he's not bullshitting you. Go look in the LED lighting section here on RIU and you'll see threads galore of guys doing DIY builds of fixtures with the new COB, or Chip On Board, type LED.

This is high wattage, broad spectrum light with nice peaks in both blue and red. The chips people are working with most pull about a hundred watts at full power- but contrary to all stripes of the old light bulb tech, these COB LED chips do not suffer spectrum degradation when operated at low power- 'under' or softly driven', as it's known- and in fact make big gains in PAR per watt efficiency.

Long story short; kick ass spectrum, high output, huge efficiency potential... and yes they're expensive, but I've saved the best part for last; especially when softly driven, the lights last for tens of thousand of hours without significant lumen degradation. Like way over 50k... You need never replace them again.

Yekke said:

The measures needed to lower the temperature inside to the lower 20s will highly depend on your outdoor temperature. You could either get fresh cold air inside when you pull air from the top of the room outside or you could run the lights in air cooled reflectors with a vent and ducting that draws air from the outside and pull it to outside after cooling the lights, then you use air condition to cool the room to the temperatures you want and add CO2.
There are the most power conservative ways to get the job done.

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If you're stuck with HPS, honestly I had the best results when running open hoods. The extra glass wasn't worth the savings in energy vs loss of yield. YMMV

in other words, take your cooling plant seriously. You're not growing anything well unless you can control your environment well. I learned this through hard experience.

The main area where LED grow lights generally fall short of their HPS equivalents is in the coverage area. They deliver high PAR in the center, but it tapers off quickly, which is why they're generally less effective during flowering. Since you're growing in a fairly confined space, coverage shouldn't be an issue. Another vote for LED.

ttystikk said:

If you're stuck with HPS, honestly I had the best results when running open hoods. The extra glass wasn't worth the savings in energy vs loss of yield. YMMV

in other words, take your cooling plant seriously. You're not growing anything well unless you can control your environment well. I learned this through hard experience.

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That would highly depend on your temps. The glass takes 10-20% of the light.

Yekke said:

That would highly depend on your temps. The glass takes 10-20% of the light.

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The trade wasn't worth it to me. Twenty percent more yield is well worth the additional cooling capacity.

ttystikk said:

The trade wasn't worth it to me. Twenty percent more yield is well worth the additional cooling capacity.

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Well, when you use an AC to cool your room you can either use the electricity to power the AC or power another light.
Closed circuit light cooling sure saves on the AC costs when it is 5-20°C outside

The main problem with coverage and leds is when you buy a pre made fixture no one is going to produce a 4x4 fixture with 16 cxb 3590 it's going to be at max 2x2 feet or 60x60 cm but when you go diy you get to choose how far apart your cobs will be ideal if one per square foot or per 30 square cm

That God led is still using old blurple light technology go diy the cobs 100 of them will cost about the same as one of those God lights and can be upgraded when cxc comes out

Check out some of supras threads he is an led God allot of people are getting 1 gpw plus