How important is....?

killer43

Active Member
hey everyone. Im wondering how important is PH in outdoor container growing? I have 24 outdoor girls some in 10 gallon containers and some in much larger containers (up tp 30 gallon).I have been filling up gallon milk jugs with water, PHing them then feeding several jugs to each plant. well as you can imagine this takes forever! Is it as important to water with proper PHed water when there outdoors rather than indoors? Im wondering if I can just turn the hose on them 2 times a week? My city water comes out at 7.7PH. Thx for your thoughts, killer.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
How many serious outdoor horticulturalists pH their water and don't just put a shower attachment onto a hose? (I've not met a one.) You'll be fine just ... watering. Outdoor soil has much much more clay than indoor, and clay acts as a buffer. cn
 

killer43

Active Member
How many serious outdoor horticulturalists pH their water and don't just put a shower attachment onto a hose? (I've not met a one.) You'll be fine just ... watering. Outdoor soil has much much more clay than indoor, and clay acts as a buffer. cn
Just to clarify Im growing in soil, IN CONTAINERS ( 10 gallon up to 30+ gallon sizes) not in the ground. If that makes any difference.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
What soil do you plan to use? If you admix powdered dolomite lime, you'll never have a pH or magnesium worry. In any case, your water sounds very very slightly alkaline, which is good. cn
 

killer43

Active Member
What soil do you plan to use? If you admix powdered dolomite lime, you'll never have a pH or magnesium worry. In any case, your water sounds very very slightly alkaline, which is good. cn
I have them planted in a mix of promix#4 and potting soil. No lime added other than what was in the potting soil. im just wondering cause to do a flush with gallon milk jugs on a 30+ gallon pot is hell and time consuming. When I feed ferts I ph and mix ferts in gallon jugs and water that way. but on non food days or flush days I need the use of the hose,lol. Just dont want to take chance of fudging up all my hard work by making girls unhappy with ph7.7 water. thx, killer.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
You can lightly topdress with the lime, or with bone meal which adds phosphorus. But my instinct says you'll be fine without any special effort.
How big are they? Any particular strain? Are they showing anything other than splendid health? I'd be jivin' if i said i needed pix to help .... so i'll just say post some and bring the bud pr0n! ;) cn
 

seed to flower

Well-Known Member
If the trees look healthy with your routine...right on. If and
when concerns arise, test the run-off see where you stand
on PH & TDS. Every Book I've read thorough the years state
to stay within the best feeding range (6.5 PH for soil, 1400
ppm & can go above that [1800 ppm] but not for a long
period, bring down with plain water or RO water.
I do ok staying within the recommended numbers. let us know
how it goes.
 

killer43

Active Member
Ive got a bunch of lemon kush, Bubba kush, kushberry/K2 and a few mystery strains. All but the Kushberry /K2 were bag seeds the KB/K2 were from clones. My tallest is a lemon kush and its standing about 7.5 feet tall right now and filling in nicely. They all seem to have slowed down on there vertical growth and now are filling in and getting very big around. There health in general seems great. ive got some yellowing of the fan leaves on 2 plants but they had a huge growth spurt so I added more nutes and one has greened up waiting on other.here are a couple pics of them this morning.
DSC_0303.jpgDSC_0304.jpgDSC_0305.jpgDSC_0306.jpg
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Those look wonderful. You're obviously doing it right. Optional but I'd recommend:
pot up one size before they commit to flower.
But otherwise, a sterling grow imo.
cn
 

killer43

Active Member
If the trees look healthy with your routine...right on. If and
when concerns arise, test the run-off see where you stand
on PH & TDS. Every Book I've read thorough the years state
to stay within the best feeding range (6.5 PH for soil, 1400
ppm & can go above that [1800 ppm] but not for a long
period, bring down with plain water or RO water.
I do ok staying within the recommended numbers. let us know
how it goes.
sounds good to me. The one piece of equipment I have yet to purchase is a TDS meter. I just cant afford one. So I follow my nute companies feeding chart and hope for the best. If I get alot of yellowing nute burn type leaves on bottom of plant I know to cut back a bit on nutes. Ive been lucky so far and have not had any major burn issues. I switched nute brands last week and burnt a couple girls with first feeding of new nutes. but nothing major and the girls seem fine. thx for suggestions, killer.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
sounds good to me. The one piece of equipment I have yet to purchase is a TDS meter. I just cant afford one. So I follow my nute companies feeding chart and hope for the best. If I get alot of yellowing nute burn type leaves on bottom of plant I know to cut back a bit on nutes. Ive been lucky so far and have not had any major burn issues. I switched nute brands last week and burnt a couple girls with first feeding of new nutes. but nothing major and the girls seem fine. thx for suggestions, killer.
Imo you won't need one. If you can read nute burn and the major deficiencies, the plants will be your guides. i have a TDS meter, but it's really a hydro tool. cn
 

killer43

Active Member
Those look wonderful. You're obviously doing it right. Optional but I'd recommend:
pot up one size before they commit to flower.
But otherwise, a sterling grow imo.
cn
yes I agree about pot size. I have been upping the pot size to big plastic totes with a 25+ gallon rating. I have 6 or so left to transplant into there final homes. Thx for advice,. here is a pic of there final size pots ill be . having them all in by flowering. killer
DSC_0307.jpg
 

killer43

Active Member
Imo you won't need one. If you can read nute burn and the major deficiencies, the plants will be your guides. i have a TDS meter, but it's really a hydro tool. cn
thx for info. I am going to start a bubble bucket type hydro set up with one plant. I have a feeling Ill need the meter for that run. But Ive done ok with soil without one. If I did have one though with proper control over nutes could I not have better luck with my girls? Killer.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Curiosity: how do you neatly hole the bottoms of those bins?

When you pot up into them, admix a smidge of bone meal into the soil. pH no worries, and that phosphorus boost for epic weight. Jmo. cn
 

killer43

Active Member
Curiosity: how do you neatly hole the bottoms of those bins?

When you pot up into them, admix a smidge of bone meal into the soil. pH no worries, and that phosphorus boost for epic weight. Jmo. cn
I use a drill and a 1/2" or 3/8th Inch drill bit and drill many hols on bottom of tub as well as around the bottom on sides of tub for extra drainage. Seems to work very well and I get the tubs at a local recycling depot for 50 cents a piece. Cant loose! Ill add some when I pot up the remaining girls and let you all know results. thx so much, killer.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
thx for info. I am going to start a bubble bucket type hydro set up with one plant. I have a feeling Ill need the meter for that run. But Ive done ok with soil without one. If I did have one though with proper control over nutes could I not have better luck with my girls? Killer.
For hydro, i consider TDS and pH meters (good ones, like Oakton) to be indispensable. It really is a different game than soil.
Soil has not only pH buffer capacity, but ionic adsorption/release as well. it's like having a capacitor in the circuit. You can overfeed one day, underfeed the next, and remain on the optimal trajectory. That margin goes completely away in hydro. cn

<add> Also, hydro requires soluble, complete specialty nutrient, like GH Flora 3-part (my preferred blend ... cheap, complete, easy, but a bit light in Mg for Mj). Soil can turn even indifferent, imbalanced fertilizer into a benefit. Granted, there are folks who do vegan-organic hydro using various teas, but I see that as a niche/hobby activity.
 

killer43

Active Member
For hydro, i consider TDS and pH meters (good ones, like Oakton) to be indispensable. It really is a different game than soil.
Soil has not only pH buffer capacity, but ionic adsorption/release as well. it's like having a capacitor in the circuit. You can overfeed one day, underfeed the next, and remain on the optimal trajectory. That margin goes completely away in hydro. cn
IC I understand. Thx for info I wasnt aware of the buffering aspect of the soil.
 
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