How long does it take the everclear to evaporate?

2Kushed

Active Member
After vac and you have shatter put shatter in pyrex. Warm to 100F. Spread shatter in the pyrex. Heat until hash, when looking from bottom of pyrex, appears dry. You will see it as it changes from the outside to the middle.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Also, is it possible to over-winterize?? I've had mine in the freezer for going on 3 days now. Anyone please advise. Thanks and best regards.
No, longer in the freezer isn't a problem. Longer is actually better, but there are diminishing returns.
 

Guzias1

Well-Known Member
Anything above about 85F darkens the oil, so if you want blond material, may I suggest cold boiling in a vacuum?



We like to remove alcohol for dabbables by cold boiling it away under -29.5" Hg vacuum. At that vacuum level, the ethanol boils at -8C/17.6F and leaves a light colored extract.View attachment 2771670
That's such a crazy cold vacuum environment. At 29.5 hg. Does the liquid splash all over the place in the chamber?

I've done 60F vacuum boils. And tend to get lots of splashing..

P.s. I was so fortunate enough today to meet a fellow oil maker that has really studied the skunk farm recovery systems. I really do fancy the closed system!
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
That's such a crazy cold vacuum environment. At 29.5 hg. Does the liquid splash all over the place in the chamber?

I've done 60F vacuum boils. And tend to get lots of splashing..

P.s. I was so fortunate enough today to meet a fellow oil maker that has really studied the skunk farm recovery systems. I really do fancy the closed system!
Interestingly, under vacuum alcohol doesn't rapidly boil, but mostly just evaporates as a gas from the surface, as the gas is not produced from sub surface heating.

If you degas the alcohol solution carefully first, by just holding at vacuum until the violent bubbling stops, 115F and -29.5 leaves only the occasional bumping from the alcohol, when a point of nucleation sudden release a large bubble.

We mostly cold boil in a Pyrex casserole dish with a sheet of DS tempered glass sitting on top. The bumping bubbles will deposit on the glass and not the chamber walls. It drys there and is easy to remove.

A closed system is definitely the way to go from a safety and cost per gram to process standpoint. It is refreshing to see the idea catching on like wild fire, with Mk IIIA's going out to the four corners and a lineup behind the Mk V prototype. Best yet, there is a plethora of bright minds taking the idea and working hard to develop it to the next level. Both from an equipment design standpoint, but the process as well.
 

miloin303

Member
Would this technique also work with dry material pulled out of the extraction contraption?

My thought would be to mix x amount of product with x amount of alcohol to get a product that I could then winterize per the specs you've listed?

I would likely strain the mixed solution thru a coffee filter as well?



Anything above about 85F darkens the oil, so if you want blond material, may I suggest cold boiling in a vacuum?

All other things being equal, darker material still smells, taste, and effect the same as lighter colored material, so how much effort you are willing to put into it for appearance is a personal call.

As far as ruining it, define ruin? The standards are different depending on end use.

I infer that you are looking for dabbing oil, not an oral, so you will want to remove the alcohol with the least amount of heat possible, and the suggestion of a fan is a good one, with the caveat that in humid climates, if you blow directly across the pool of alcohol, the hygroscopic alcohol will pick up additional water and you will end up with tan colored water after reaching the azeotropic balance point between the water and alcohol.

We like to remove alcohol for dabbables by cold boiling it away under -29.5" Hg vacuum. At that vacuum level, the ethanol boils at -8C/17.6F and leaves a light colored extract.View attachment 2771670
 

getsoutalive

Well-Known Member
Cold boiling the alcohol without heat is more likely to produce shatter. We use 115F at -29.5" Hg.
Fadedawg, would you please elaborate on your setup for cold boiling? Are you capturing the alcohol as it evaporates and condensing it? Does it pass through the pump, would a special pump be necessary because of that?

Thanks
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
We have a Welch 2054 chemical duty diaphram pump on a Cascade TEK TV02 oven. It passes through the pump uncontaminated and can more easily be captured after the pump, than before it.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Did I understand correctly that, following the boiling points,
the vacuum shifts the graphics of decarboxylation?
A good question, which I deferred to biotech Pharmer Joe, who says atmospheric pressure would affect decarboxylation rates, but couldn't offer any empirical numbers.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Also, is it possible to over-winterize?? I've had mine in the freezer for going on 3 days now. Anyone please advise. Thanks and best regards.
We found around 48 hours about the point of diminishing returns, but it doesn't damage the product to do it ten times that long. I've forgotten jars of solution in the freezer for months, and still produced pristine material when I finished it off. In those cases, the wax was already coating the bottom of the jar, as opposed to hanging in suspension.
 

Flagg420

Well-Known Member
Also, is it possible to over-winterize?? I've had mine in the freezer for going on 3 days now. Anyone please advise. Thanks and best regards.
Not as long as the alcohol isnt too low, it is still evaporating in there.... very slowly... so... yea id draw the line @ 3 days depending on batch size
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Not as long as the alcohol isnt too low, it is still evaporating in there.... very slowly... so... yea id draw the line @ 3 days depending on batch size
I put a lid on the jar of alcohol and oil in the freezer, so evaporation is nil.
 

Mr.CrumWell

Member
air flow helps. you can hook a vacuum pump to a cold condenser to trap the alcohol before it gets to the pump and reclaim the alcohol. that speeds things up for sure.

hope this helps.
 

LiquidJunglist

Well-Known Member
I put a lid on the jar of alcohol and oil in the freezer, so evaporation is nil.
Ok so I have been getting all my Equipment together....

  • CLS
  • Vacuum Chamber w/ Vac and Cold Trap
  • Heating Mat for Chamber (low temp and NOT full vac i know sir :bigjoint:)
  • Büchner funnel & Flask
So i think I'm ready to try your method. Now I have a question about vacuuming of the 190 proof everclear?

Should i get a secondary cheaper pump to do the Everclear vac with or with the Cold Trap keep my Big Boy Pump ok? I don't mind getting a HFT cheap one just to do the Everclear vacuum with i just don't want my 7cfm Pump to get fucked up i got a good one so i could use it with a Oven when i upgrade. Also there should be no left over taste right?

Thank you GW you are a King Among Kings sir. I always share you site when people ask me about CLS or anything that has to do with Extraction at my Smokeshop.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Also, is it possible to over-winterize?? I've had mine in the freezer for going on 3 days now. Anyone please advise. Thanks and best regards.
No. At least 48 hours, but longer works. After a month in the freezer, most of the waxes will settle to the bottom of the container, instead of being suspended through out.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Ok so I have been getting all my Equipment together....

  • CLS
  • Vacuum Chamber w/ Vac and Cold Trap
  • Heating Mat for Chamber (low temp and NOT full vac i know sir :bigjoint:)
  • Büchner funnel & Flask
So i think I'm ready to try your method. Now I have a question about vacuuming of the 190 proof everclear?

Should i get a secondary cheaper pump to do the Everclear vac with or with the Cold Trap keep my Big Boy Pump ok? I don't mind getting a HFT cheap one just to do the Everclear vacuum with i just don't want my 7cfm Pump to get fucked up i got a good one so i could use it with a Oven when i upgrade. Also there should be no left over taste right?

Thank you GW you are a King Among Kings sir. I always share you site when people ask me about CLS or anything that has to do with Extraction at my Smokeshop.

A faucet aspirator will work for vacuum filtration. Unless you have a chemical duty pump, vacuum filtration dilutes your gear case and shortens pump life.
 
Anything above about 85F darkens the oil, so if you want blond material, may I suggest cold boiling in a vacuum?

All other things being equal, darker material still smells, taste, and effect the same as lighter colored material, so how much effort you are willing to put into it for appearance is a personal call.

As far as ruining it, define ruin? The standards are different depending on end use.

I infer that you are looking for dabbing oil, not an oral, so you will want to remove the alcohol with the least amount of heat possible, and the suggestion of a fan is a good one, with the caveat that in humid climates, if you blow directly across the pool of alcohol, the hygroscopic alcohol will pick up additional water and you will end up with tan colored water after reaching the azeotropic balance point between the water and alcohol.

We like to remove alcohol for dabbables by cold boiling it away under -29.5" Hg vacuum. At that vacuum level, the ethanol boils at -8C/17.6F and leaves a light colored extract.View attachment 2771670
Hi fadedawg, can you point out a place where i can find more info on this? Such as equipment . TIA
 
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