In the bottom of each pot as in soil?Canna Coco a/b
Big Bud Advanced -week 2/4
Pk 13/14 ,canna.Week 5.
I make sure that i have good air in the res, with a air stone from Compressor.And also Air rings in the bottom of each pot going to fish tank pump.I think its key to stopping Salt Build ups .
I've only heard of them but I should give them a tryI have tried most Nutrient lines but all ways come back to Canna ,for ease and the results of the final crop.
Air rings in the bottom of the pot just cut the holes bigger in them,Put a layer of clay pebbles over them then soil or coco,You be surprised just how big a difference that makes,the roots love it healthy roots healthy plants.Make them out of Spaghetti tubing,i don't use a compressor,with the rings just fish tank pump.In the bottom of each pot as in soil?
Airstone in soil? I've only tried this when I first started to combat my over watering tendencies.
Or do you mean like 5gal hydro pot?
What do you meam when you say caused more damage than good? My growing went from lanky and disappointment to monster sized plants when I found out ph out of the tap was 7.8 and 7.4 after nutrients. Runoff came out to 7.6.I no longer use a ph pen ,aint done that for years,I found i caused more damage than good.So about 6/7 year ago i decided to ditch it that crop i got just over 2 lb from the two Blues Livers i had in there,dry weight.I don't weigh my plants wet ,i know a few that do so they can say they got a gram per watt.Plus i dry my plants by just cutting from the bottom and hanging upside down.Too much resin is lost by wet pruning i think,So never get the chance to get a wet weight .
I am definitely guilty of that, now I just abide by the idea that close is good enough! It can certainly get complicated...Messing about checking the ph getting it right then it changed so i was getting it back to the right ph ,i think it just causes ph flux,So i just no longer use one since then its very rare i have issues.I think far too many growers fuss too much over them get the temps right and if the water is good enough for you to drink then i see no need to mess with it,but i do have good water.The plants do far better with out all the fuss ,Just let them do what they want to do just grow.A little bit of Neglect you will find they kinda like has long has your Nutrients are at right levels.and the room temps are right.I do not use a temp gage either i go one feel If its too hot for me,too hot for them.It may just be how long i have been doing it.I can just tell if my rooms running hotter than normal,The plants will tell you if there not happy,Not a gage.I have known growers i know,with perfect plants,but has soon has you leave the house they start messing around with stuff .Just because the gage says its a little hotter or colder than it should be,They cause the problems.The plants was happy.I think from seed you can get a plant used to growing in a bit of heat also,But you have to start them in that heat.
I have! But in the reverse!Honest dude try it ,you may be surprised honest.In the veg area don't mess about with ph ,on one plant just to see what happens.Just make your nutes up test the ec then feed it,then ph has normal with the others ,see what happens
Yeah, mine is soft water too at 20-25ppm (tested it myself years ago) I like the canna Flores as it has pH neutral silica with Fluvic and Humic acids added to it.I do like that simplicity especially for someone who is growing for fun!
But when you find out that some people have tap water that comes out 350ppm as opposed to say my 40ppm, you understand that using 1/2 strength is irrelevant when talking about tip burn because the RO water user could go as high as 3/4 with the same strain and environment x.x
I often used to do Gorilla style growing at the side of The local River,Kinda Natural Hydroponics.When the plants got to a certain size there roots feed from the silt in the river,When we had rain it naturally flooded the plants.I built them on slightly higher ground so they would only be a few inch under water.Did it for years.Next time i go i get a reading with my ph pen just to let ya know ph of the river.
I completely agree, I prefer to use EC, but ppm is commonly used and when asked no one seems to know what you mean by "conversion factor" so they are using a system that "appears" easier but actually can cause a lot of issues for others trying to replicate.Nope you can’t and shouldn’t, but it helps to have a common formula that helps others understand what’s actually happening. It’s of little use to say how much of X I use if there is no baseline. Especially so if you are seeking help.
As for the EC argument, it’s not important except ppm can be confusing and has had unfortunate consequences for some as it does matter which conversion is used and that does need to be made clear or toxicity can occur. Whereas EC is the same the world over. Use what you want just keep it in the back of your mind especially for new folks that may not fully understand that.
Sorry just need to ask this, you ditched your ph pen because? Are you blaming the pen for crappy yield? Seems to me if I had a great crop I would want to know the reasons why, the Ph pen is a tool used to gather information, what you choose to do with that is up to you. You could use the information to help reproduce your outstanding results!I no longer use a ph pen ,aint done that for years,I found i caused more damage than good.So about 6/7 year ago i decided to ditch it that crop i got just over 2 lb from the two Blues Livers i had in there,dry weight.I don't weigh my plants wet ,i know a few that do so they can say they got a gram per watt.Plus i dry my plants by just cutting from the bottom and hanging upside down.Too much resin is lost by wet pruning i think,So never get the chance to get a wet weight .
That is bad advice! Some folks have PH as high as 8.5, without correction you will most certainly get nutrient lockout. My standing PH is 7 which is livable but I still adjust it depending on the media I am using. I could, for instance, leave it well enough alone in soil but it needs help for DWC. I set a target, hit it, let it stand for a few minutes, check it again, if it's all good- feed. It's really pretty simple. Plants will only grow as fast as genetics, food and light allow.Honest dude try it ,you may be surprised honest.In the veg area don't mess about with ph ,on one plant just to see what happens.Just make your nutes up test the ec then feed it,then ph has normal with the others ,see what happens
No you aren't being a snob, I only mentioned it because when using PPMs there are 3 conversion factors, as far as I know? and without the extra step of revealing which one a measurement is being taken with there is a pretty wide window of guessing. EC is EC and is very simple. Admittedly, not everyone has an EC pen. So it just means they need to provide two sets of numbers to get the correct outcome. No big deal.I completely agree, I prefer to use EC, but ppm is commonly used and when asked no one seems to know what you mean by "conversion factor" so they are using a system that "appears" easier but actually can cause a lot of issues for others trying to replicate.
I use the NaCl conversion factor (@0.50*EC) when converting my EC.
I think it's funny that so many people prefer PPM's when typically a TDS/EC meters default setting is EC...
Maybe I am just being a snob...