How much is too much PPM

Exodus79

Exodus79

Member
Hey now.
I`m concerned with PPM levels. I follow the recommended dosage on the advance nutrient site. I wonder if I should dilute or risk running into problems.

Light Mars Hydro TS 1000
3X3 tent
6'' exhaust inline fan with carbon filter
DWC system water temp varies between 17-22 celcius I try to keep around 18 C
AN micro grow and bloom with Vodoo Juice, Big Bud, Xfactor, Rhino. calmag & 2tea spoons of molasses in 15 L water = 1400ppm
PH 6.5
Plant looks good just the tips are a bit burned. Also I feel that this Grand Daddy Purple looks pretty light green, So I`ve added a mixture of 2 Cups of corn sugar & a pack of yeast. It`s hanging in my tent 7'' hanging above the top of the plants. I`m hoping the CO2 mixture gets to the plant and not sucked out.
It`s day 2 of flowering, still no signs of sex yet. It`s been 6 weeks from seed.
 

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Exodus79

Exodus79

Member
rkymtnman said:
don't do that.

should be all you need other than cal/mg and root rot preventative

way too high. 2.8EC is insane
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How would you guy`s proceed till it`s time to flush? And being in the range of 6.5 for pH should is try to keep it down with ph down ? I`ve read that i`ll be chasing the ph forever since it`s tap water and nothing I can do about it.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
with hydro, the first day you see tipburn you need to take action. either by dropping ppms or doing a flush for 24 hours or both.

if you don't fix it, it generally leads to nute lockout which gives you deficiencies. who know what: N, Ca, Mg, etc.

try running the AN schedule at 1/2, the cal/mg at 1/2 and see what your final EC/ppm is. i'd shoot for 500 to 700 max ppm

then let us know how that's working
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
rkymtnman said:
with hydro, the first day you see tipburn you need to take action. either by dropping ppms or doing a flush for 24 hours or both.

if you don't fix it, it generally leads to nute lockout which gives you deficiencies. who know what: N, Ca, Mg, etc.

try running the AN schedule at 1/2, the cal/mg at 1/2 and see what your final EC/ppm is. i'd shoot for 500 to 700 max ppm

then let us know how that's working
Click to expand...
Agree. Realize that in DWC, your roots are constantly submerged and uptaking food. Not like on soil or coco or any media really that has a chance to dry out, thus haulting the possibility of the roots being able to feed.
In Veg, ppm really doesn't need to ever exceed 400ppm. Honestly, closer to 300 is much safer. In flower it's the same scenario for the roots being submerged. Although, they will uptake much MUCH more and faster than in veg ESPECIALLY from weeks 2-6, the ppm has no need to ever be above 7-800. Calmag is vital in RDwC IF you're doing it right using 0ppm reverse osmosis water to start with
 
R

refresh420

Member
Usually it’s a good idea to start at 1/4 strength of the recommended dose and adjust from there. My RDWC starts at 500 once I see good roots and as the grow goes on I increase it as the plants see fit. If the PPM drops then increase.

At 4 weeks in flower, Im at 700 ppm for my Ak47 and Sour Diesel. Getting a trimeter you can keep in your rez is necessary imo and takes away the guess work
 
Logan Burke

Logan Burke

Well-Known Member
In combination with Rky's advice, I would also consider lowering your PH a tad bit. While 6.5 does fall within the 5.5-6.5 ph range for hydro, you're not allowing nutrients on the lower end of the spectrum an adequate chance to be absorbed or at least not in significant quantities. This isn't to say that you will have problems with a PH of 6.5, but I do think that you will achieve better results with a ph that stays within the 5.8-6.2 range. In fact, some people intentionally allow their PH to drift so that all of the nutrients within the spectrum of PH are allowed a better oppurtunity to be absorbed.
Refresh's mention of a continuous PH/PPM/Temp monitor is a good idea. A regular meter works just fine as well. But personally, I love not having to empty, clean and refill a storage cap with storage solution each and every time I want to check my res's statistics. I just use a BlueLab combo meter, drill a notch in the lip of the bucket for the cords to slide into, and leave it there. The only downside I find with this is that due to constant exposure to nutrient water, more frequent cleaning and calibrating may be neccessary. Even at that, I clean/cal once a month and my meter is rarely inaccurate beyond 0.1 as far as ph goes.
EDIT: Oh and I would also ditch the mollasses...even with the use of beneficial microbes, the cost/benefit ratio of incorporating organic matter into your res isn't worth it in my opinion. Using PH down should also be perfectly acceptable...unless your PH is dropping a full 1 or 2 points (from 6.5 to 5.5 or 4.5), the amount of PH down used should be negligible to your plants and the PH down is easily absorbed in the form of a nutrient, but still so little of that nutrient that it isn't impacting your EC in a way your plant should even notice.
 
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icetech

icetech

Well-Known Member
2.8EC that's insane to me.. i run 1.2-1.4 tops in bloom..

BTW.. why so many expensive nutes? it's a weed it doesn't need designer feed :)
 
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