That may be so but over time your soil will compress with watering,, you can get away with it in Coco, but not straight soil,,I use as little as possible myself. I want those roots to come in contact with nutrients, not inert white pebbles the roots have to spend energy and time to go around to find nutrients. The biggest crime i see growers do is compressing the soil in the pot with their hands. If you drizzle the stuff in and dont compress it, you dont need any aeration components. No nursery worth its name compresses soil.
No it wont and i have plenty of video evidence to back me up if you would like.That may be so but over time your soil will compress with watering,, you can get away with it in Coco, but not straight soil,,
I tend to use more than most. Too many times i see people mix their soil too rich and they end up with root rot or other problems that result from dense muddy aoilFor every 1 gallon of soil, I mix in 1 quart of Perlite which seems to offer good drainage. Some say you should use as much as 50% to get better results.
To put this question to rest, how much Perlite or other Aeration amendment should be added to your substrate?
Cervantes states 30% max, to keep your soil consistent. 25% for me does the job, same as you.For every 1 gallon of soil, I mix in 1 quart of Perlite which seems to offer good drainage. Some say you should use as much as 50% to get better results.
To put this question to rest, how much Perlite or other Aeration amendment should be added to your substrate?
It's the only way I'll water my plants.30% is good, 40 better for me. To prevent soil compaction as much as possible, water with a sprayer. Takes longer but its worthy.
Pumice is the new perlite i hearCervantes states 30% max, to keep your soil consistent. 25% for me does the job, same as you.
I'm looking for substitutes for perlite. Coco fibers are great. Understanding the roles of rice hulls, vermiculite and sphagnum to increase my options.