How much power can you pull from a closet ceiling socket?

setting up a closet grow for my buddy and he doesn't want wires running under the door we need to use the ceiling socket, what would be the max output possible, what parts if any would be needed, think a 400w hps setup would over do it?

cruzer101 said:

I think its the amps more then the wattage. That would depend on the size of the breaker but my guess would be 10 to 15 amps. Thing is there is no ground. I am sure you could buy one of those polarized plugs that screw into the socket. That would certainly power fluorescents and fans. HID lighting is supposed to be grounded I am sure an electrician wouldn't like it but I have done it without grounding before. You do risk the shock factor if the internal ground fails.
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Watts = Volts x Amps

so if its 10 amps x 115 volts = 1150 watts?

the fuse box says 100 amps and 115/230 volts and has 8 fuses if that helps.

so i assume 100 amps / 8 fuses = 12.5 amps?

You are not going to get what you need from a ceiling socket. Those fixtures aren't designed to take more than 200 watts or so. You'll have to remove the socket itself and properly attach an outlet. Make sure you turn the breaker completely off before you do that. Make sure you understand electrical wiring before you even attempt it, or you will kill yourself.

KaliKitsune said:

You are not going to get what you need from a ceiling socket. Those fixtures aren't designed to take more than 200 watts or so. You'll have to remove the socket itself and properly attach an outlet. Make sure you turn the breaker completely off before you do that. Make sure you understand electrical wiring before you even attempt it, or you will kill yourself.

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^^^ He is right ^^^

maybe just put a green bulb in the socket and use it if you have to go in during dark period for some reason.

Its just too easy to just keep adding elec. loads to that socket in the future.

Run a separate circuit for what you need.

Good luck.

KaliKitsune said:

You are not going to get what you need from a ceiling socket. Those fixtures aren't designed to take more than 200 watts or so. You'll have to remove the socket itself and properly attach an outlet. Make sure you turn the breaker completely off before you do that. Make sure you understand electrical wiring before you even attempt it, or you will kill yourself.

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I was planning to become an electrician so i know enough, but i have been shocked like 3 times and its not that bad, i think some people might enjoy it.

So what i do is cut the power, disconnect the socket, connect the outlet and im done? also i assume i should wire the socket in parallel which will divide my amps and not my volts, yes?

Correct. Run parallel.

hey is the light socket controlled by a switch or a pull chain? and does the electrical panel really have fuses or breakers there is a difference. if it has fuses find the manufacturers name and the rating on the in amps and go by a couple so you have some on hand

Bean 420 said:

hey is the light socket controlled by a switch or a pull chain? and does the electrical panel really have fuses or breakers there is a difference. if it has fuses find the manufacturers name and the rating on the in amps and go by a couple so you have some on hand

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controlled by a switch (didnt even think about mentioning that) and its fuses, but above the 8 fuses theres a metal lever which doesnt look like a breaker but i dont know what it is, i think it might be to cut the power to all the fuses,, so if i wanted to cut the power would i pull this or unscrew the fuse?

::removed manufacturer and model

is the amp rating 60 or 100?

edit: pretty sure its 60, there is a note that says 300 sum to box, single branch cant exceed 60 amps

The busses are rated for 100 amps.

dirtyoz said:

The busses are rated for 100 amps.

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so all i need is an outlet socket (should i get a high end one with a reset button?) and a few 100 amp fuses just incase?

thanks a lot for the help guys

orange frog sound like the panels pretty old but should be ok. first thing you probably want to due is find out with fuse powers that light socket you want to use then remove it. By doing this you will see what else in the house is on the same circuit as far as other lights and outlets. try to minimize the amount things powered by the circuit by not using the outlets or other lights on it. in old houses they usually load the amount of devices lights / outlets on a single circuit. with all that said if you still plan to use it it shouldn't be too hard first safety turn the switch of take down the light socket you should have a black(hot) wire and a white (neutral) wire which is all you need for an outlet. now I have a few questions before i can continue is the box in the ceiling round or square? metal or plastic? either way you can most likely find a cover that has a built in outlet to replace the light socket at a hardware store

Bean 420 said:

I have a few questions before i can continue is the box in the ceiling round or square? metal or plastic?

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round metal

i assume since its metal i shouldn't move it around much to avoid connecting wires.

the 100 amp rating is for the panel not the individual circuits. the panels 100 amp fuse won't be affected only the smaller screw in type they are usually 10 or 15 amps at the most 20. take one out and bring to the store to make a correct match

metal isn't bad either you might be able to get a connection to ground by putting a screw(ground screw) into it(back of the box) and connecting a wire to it, then to the new outlets ground screw. this will only work though if the metal box is connected to a ground further down the line which can't be guaranteed due to possible renovations or lack of ground wires in old wiring, but it doesn't hurt to try. I also recommend taping over the screws on the outlet with electrical tape like 3 times around is what i like to due keep from accidentally touching the metal box

orangefrog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyoz
The busses are rated for 100 amps.
so all i need is an outlet socket (should i get a high end one with a reset button?) and a few 100 amp fuses just incase?

thanks a lot for the help guys
the outlets with the reset button or GFIC( ground fault protected) aren't a bad idea especially around water but isn't necessary. you get get a power strip with a reset button to plug into the outlet

orangefrog
Able To Roll A Joint
Able to roll a joint

Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 56



permalink
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyoz
The busses are rated for 100 amps.
so all i need is an outlet socket (should i get a high end one with a reset button?) and a few 100 amp fuses just incase?

thanks a lot for the help guys
the outlets with the reset button or GFIC( ground fault protected) aren't a bad idea especially around water but isn't necessary. you get get a power strip with a reset button to plug into the outlet. now remember black wire to the gold screw on the outlet and white wire to the silver screw

my bad for the double post good luck

It means the assemebly is rated for 100 amps.
The ampacity if the fuse you screw into each socket dictates the size of wire you connect to that particular space in your panel.
Never raise the size of fuse if its been burning out or tripping. the fuse is there to protect the wire attached to it.
typically, 12 guage wire = 20 amp fuse
14 guage wire = 15 amp fuse
Remember, the higher the guage, the smaller the wire. Its kind of reverse proportional.

I dont think I would draw more than 3 or 400watts from one of those sockets.