How should I hook up my fans?

FrozenTouch

New Member
So I have 2 fans, one is 400+ cfm, and the other is 200+ cfm.

I have a Cool Tube 1000 watt light.

Previously I was just using the the 400+ cfm had it blowing out of the tent, and sucking in through the cool tube.


If I wanted to set it up so 1 fan pulled through the cool tube, but its intake was from outside the tent, and it exhausted out of the tent as well (so it wouldn't clear out heat/humitidy from inside the tent, only the cool tube).

And I would use the second fan to come on intermittently which pulls from inside the tent, and exhausts out.

Is there any precedent on which fan should be the cool tube fan and which fan should be the tent fan? (like i said i have a 400+cfm and a 200+ cfm. )
 

kermit2692

Well-Known Member
Why do you want to do that...your just using more electricity and complicating things only reason to do what your talking about is if you're adding co2..then your second fan only sits inside running through a filter with no intakes our you can set it up to exchange the air when you want being careful not to flush the air when your also pumping co2....lmk id i'm not thinking of something but I don't see a reason to change from what you're already doing
 

Dogenzengi

Well-Known Member
I have nearly the same power fans.
for a 400 watt HPS.
6" 400 CFM inline, air pulled a 6" my hood had 4" so I mounted a 6"-4" pce of tin then 4" duct to hood.
4" duct leaves hood and goes out of tent.

My 4" 160 CFM inline fan is setup to exhaust my tent, I have a passive air intake and maintain negative pressure.
filter to fan then out of tent. Air drawn in thru 4" tin elbow.
( always add a lady's stocking to any intake to protect your fan and keep from having a fire.)
I add a stocking to my passive intake to keep my pet hair from being drawn in by the 4" fan.
I still have not needed the filter as my smells are minimal so far.

lights on temp 79 when the house is 74, I run my A/C all year round.
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
hey man

i understand what he is saying he wants..............buddy understand this method will only work while the temp is cool once they warm up the ac cost will be higher and no benfit to that set up


ok look at your tent .........it should have vents ports on the side wall upper section and one in the roof of the tent
your exhust point will be the roof for the cooltube..........so u can set that up now .....u might want to get a vent that way instead of steady stream of hot air it is deflected in all directions to heat the room (very nice idea).........now what ever side is open that will get the other part of the ducting feed it tho to the outside (place it somewhere that has a cold draft once u reduce the house heat)...........use the 200CFM there at the starting point for the cooltube

use the 400cfm (assuming it is a inline fan not a booster u can get a varible speed controller for it and lower the over all CFMs to increase the temp in the tent or keep it fast and have a cooler running tent)

they sell Dust and carbon gaurds for the fans u should think about ordering one for the 200 cfm (guessing booster)
 

FrozenTouch

New Member
Hmm well I had to temporarily change the set up due to my cure for spider mites. I"m using a Hot Shot No Pest Strip, and it slowly emits a toxic chemical much like an air freshener. It lasts for 4 months, but that's assuming minimal ventilation. I've been shutting everything off during lights out, and only having the Tent Fan on for 15 minutes off for 30 during lights on. I'm giving it a few more days in there just to make sure there's no late hatchers. But I thought I might as well keep it set up like this, just in case I spot another spider mite, and need to throw the Hot Shot No Pest Strip back in.

Kermit you make a good point about the extra electricity, also during flowering which I'm just getting ready to start, I actually need a lower humidity, which having a fan on all or most of the time achieves, like my initial set up.

However, I do plan to Suck the Air from my window, and exhaust back out to the window for the cool tube fan. After having Spider Mites, I don't really want to suck outside air directly into my tent, so I would just use a passive intake with the intermittent fan, which would also exhaust out the window. So I think I would conserve energy as far as blowing out my air conditioning.
We have a warmer winter here, but its still chilly out, currently I've just been exhausting into my apartment and not using the heat.

But the warmer months are coming. I plan to compensate by switching the plants over to a Night Time Schedule for flowering.
I ordered a window vent panel thing that I'm going to be putting in, so I can Stealthfully have my exhausts/intakes running to the window.

Perhaps it might be best to switch back to the 1 fan system? Would be easier to just have 1 exhaust vent.
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
if u have sprider mites

use the pepper spray of death ............it kills them and repels nosiey ppl...........spray them like a cat and yell no not yours do not look in the tent bad who ever no no no ......then give them a gallon of milk to wash out the eyes

this shit is no joke so if u make it do it right and be very careful with it ........u are packing basically cop pepper spray

if u want it even hotter ...........Ghost Chilli's are the hottest on the planet ......India is now using those to make Tear Gas /pepperspray and several other peices of gear out of them since the pain is so strong
 
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