How to adjust PH for organic grow

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waynekerr

Active Member
Started my first fully organic grow outside this year and all was going well until I noticed the PH level of my water (well water) had climbed 5.8 to 7.5.
I have been told not to use PH down as it will kill my soil and I could try lemon juice but it won't work in the soil for long.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
South Texas

South Texas

Well-Known Member
If you use a good organic program, a soil that's alive with microbes, the soil will balance out the PH. But you can use some hydrogen proxcide to lower the PH. Let the water sit for a couple days & breath, see if that will help. There is good info at the dirtdoctor.com web site. Check out his on-line Library.
 
ClosetSafe

ClosetSafe

Active Member
so you want to lower the PH of the solution before you water with it. lemon juice will work. I think the rule of thumb is "squeezing half a lemon into a gallon of water" will bring it down to about 5.5. Assuming it was regular tap at 7. Are you feeding with a nutrient solution or is all your food in the soil already?

Dolomite lime is usually great for raising the ph, but it appears to regulate it more than just drive it higher. Also slow acting.

I just don't feel comfortable telling you to water with lemonade (half lemon per gallon of water + tablespoon of molasses)

Oh thats it. Molasses usually brings the ph down. You can water with a molasses solution.

Edit: what's important is the ph of the water coming out. Can you measure the ph of the run off?
 
woodsmaneh!

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
Just water, the soil will adjust and to make sure you can buy a soil test kit for a few $ at any big box store. The best thing to do is add worm castings to your soil. The added benefits from WC is always welcome in the garden.
 
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wiseguy316

Well-Known Member
South Texas said:
If you use a good organic program, a soil that's alive with microbes, the soil will balance out the PH. But you can use some hydrogen proxcide to lower the PH. Let the water sit for a couple days & breath, see if that will help. There is good info at the dirtdoctor.com web site. Check out his on-line Library.
Click to expand...
peroxide in organics? hello. big no no. it will kill all the microbs. good and bad. only use peroxide in organics if you have a serious roots problem.
 
M

Mr.Grønn

New Member
Here is some PH info: https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/453105-ph-info.html

Just wanted to say adjusting water PH is not very effective for changing medium PH (over time).

Better to use correct nutrients as the PH of the medium depend a lot on nutrient-ratios (likes types N), and I'm not even talking about the PH-value of the nutrient-bottles/mixes going in.

When the plant eats, the medium changes PH - depending on what's in it. This affect the PH a LOT more than the PH of water/nutes going in. So research this, and you'll not have to worry anymore.

Happy growing.
 
South Texas

South Texas

Well-Known Member
That is correct, it will kill Microbes. The Dirt Doctor said that if you MUST, just a little, and don't use it unless it's really needed.
 
elduece

elduece

Active Member
For years, I've mixed 1/4 cup of 3% H2O2 per 5 gallons which I think is the sweet spot for the plants and micro herd. Killing micros is a non issue if you use compost tea often.
 
Jack Harer

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
pH is really not as critical in organics as it is with chemical ferts or hydro. The micro herd with make the ion exchange easier for the plants. However, organics usually are self-regulating as far as pH goes.
 
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KingofHearts2die4

Active Member
im having issues with this as well. im halfway threw flowering and my hairs are turning rapidly and im not sure what it is..im have slow yellowing fromi the bottom up and am almost out of fan leaves..ph comes out in the 5s but there are tons of microbes due to mycro,great white, fox farms,budswell and mother earths bacteria/fungi blend...i was wondering if a flush would work or if it would wipe out my highly populated soil
 
Jack Harer

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
If you are using chemical nutes, then yes, a flush would help (if you NEED help). Trying to flush out slow release organic nutrients is a waste of time. The "Hairs" will start turning at different rates for different strains, it's the trichs you need to be looking at as an indicator. Sounds like you have Monsanto laboratories in your soil. All the microbes you'll need you can get from EWC and compost.
Yellowing from the bottom up can be normal. It's hard to tell, tho, with all that stuff in there.
 
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The Mantis

Well-Known Member
Anyone ever try using coffee grinds? I drink french press coffee every morning and add it to my compost pile to add substance and lower the ph in the soil.
 
Izoc666

Izoc666

Well-Known Member
well i always check pH from runoff, it will tell you more accurate...i have organic in my soilless with blood meal, bone meal, with garden lime..it will be always buffer pH. if i read runoff pH is high like 8.3 then i will use alaska 5-1-1- it always works to bring pH down... thats just me :) but dont too sweat about this till you have serious problem then you should know better because what you put in the soil or soilless by mix etc it will be easy for you to remember n-p-k ratio by how much you put into pot....therefore you can correct it very easy.
 
wheezer

wheezer

Well-Known Member
This why I NEVER check my PH on my well water hahahah you can't worry bout somethin' if you don't know about it haha.
 
woodsmaneh!

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
How many farmers do you see Ph the water before watering their crops. NONE! Just a few ways they water and no Ph'ing ever.

Irrigation is the the controlled application of water for agricultural purposes through man made systems to supply water requirements not satisfied by rainfall. Crop irrigation is vital throughout the world in order to provide the world's ever-growing populations with enough food. Many different irrigation methods are used worldwide, including:

  • Center-Pivot: Automated sprinkler irrigation achieved by automatically rotating the sprinkler pipe or boom, supplying water to the sprinkler heads or nozzles, as a radius from the center of the field to be irrigated. Water is delivered to the center or pivot point of the system. The pipe is supported above the crop by towers at fixed spacings and propelled by pneumatic, mechanical, hydraulic, or electric power on wheels or skids in fixed circular paths at uniform angular speeds. Water is applied at a uniform rate by progressive increase of nozzle size from the pivot to the end of the line. The depth of water applied is determined by the rate of travel of the system. Single units are ordinarily about 1,250 to 1,300 feet long and irrigate about a 130-acre circular area.
  • Drip: A planned irrigation system in which water is applied directly to the Root Zone of plants by means of applicators (orifices, emitters, porous tubing, perforated pipe, etc.) operated under low pressure with the applicators being placed either on or below the surface of the ground.
  • Flood: The application of irrigation water where the entire surface of the soil is covered by ponded water.
  • Furrow: A partial surface flooding method of irrigation normally used with clean-tilled crops where water is applied in furrows or rows of sufficient capacity to contain the designed irrigation system.
  • Gravity: Irrigation in which the water is not pumped but flows and is distributed by gravity.
  • Rotation: A system by which irrigators receive an allotted quantity of water, not a continuous rate, but at stated intervals.
  • Sprinkler: A planned irrigation system in which water is applied by means of perforated pipes or nozzles operated under pressure so as to form a spray pattern.
  • Subirrigation: Applying irrigation water below the ground surface either by raising the water table within or near the root zone or by using a buried perforated or porous pipe system that discharges directly into the root zone.
  • Traveling Gun: Sprinkler irrigation system consisting of a single large nozzle that rotates and is self-propelled. The name refers to the fact that the base is on wheels and can be moved by the irrigator or affixed to a guide wire.
  • Supplemental: Irrigation to ensure increased crop production in areas where rainfall normally supplies most of the moisture needed.
  • Surface: Irrigation where the soil surface is used as a conduit, as in furrow and border irrigation as opposed to sprinkler irrigation or subirrigation.
 
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waynekerr

Active Member
Thanks for all the info, been super helpful.
I have another problem, it seems I have two separate plants that both have one branch that is dying. All the others look great. There appears to be no damage to the limb or where it comes of the main stem. Any thoughts??
 
K

KingofHearts2die4

Active Member
subscribe!!! , my dang ph wont go up. crystals are still clear and cloudy, mostly clear and i watered with lime...hairs are mostly red/brown.ready but not shes says! wtf!?!
 
Rrog

Rrog

Well-Known Member
King, are you growing in soil? Live soil allow the plant to dictate the pH it wants pH regardless of the water pH.
 
Bueno Time

Bueno Time

Well-Known Member
I used to ph my water or nute mixes everytime I added it. This grow I havent done anything just watered it in and it is going as good or better than before with less effort.
 
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