<<How To Grow Magic Mushrooms>>

How To Grow Magic Mushrooms

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The method presented here is recommended for people who have tried another method of growing magic mushrooms and failed. This method is not recommended for first time growers. It is easy and will work very well recommended for first time growers.

Even if you decide to use this method, read other grow guides. Make sure you understand what you are doing and how things work before attempting to grow magic mushrooms. This procedure calls for growing magic mushroom from spore prints or syringes on rice.

Before I describe the technique I use, I'd like to say that there are many methods of growing 'shrooms, some more difficult than others, and I am simply presenting the method which has worked well for me.
Using this method, I've never had a dud batch, they've always fruited readily, and I've never poisoned myself or others with contaminated 'shrooms.
I should mention again, however, that the procedure I describe is not one which will give maximum yields of mushrooms but it is easier than most, if not all other growing methods. It does have the advantage that the growing medium itself can be ingested for psychedelic effects (see section on storing and eating magic mushrooms).


Materials Needed To Grow Magic Mushrooms

• A pressure cooker, any size, but preferably one with 17 quart liquid capacity (this is the most expensive item, but I consider it a necessity for this method to work).
• 12 (or more) new canning jars, 1 quart size, preferably wide mouthed, with lids.
• A box/bag of brown rice with no preservatives -- NOT white rice. Long grain/wild rice might also be a good growing medium, maybe even better than regular brown rice, although I'm not positive about this. I once used a half-and-half mix of brown rice and Long grain wild rice which worked fine. However, a possible disadvantage to using the long grain/wild rice is that any contaminants such as dark-colored molds will be more difficult to spot in the growing medium. Preservatives are added to rice to stop the growth of fungus, bacteria, and other things that might present a health risk to humans. Because the rice is providing nutrition to the mushrooms (a fungus), anything that stops or slows the growth of fungus is to be avoided or the mushrooms will not be able to survive.
• A clean place to store your jars, should have a relatively constant temperature. The optimum for starting the 'shrooms is about 86 F, but a room temperature of 70 F works fairly well. Remember though as the temperature falls below 86 F the growth rate slows. Storing the jars in a fridge will stop growth but will not kill the mushrooms. When you take the jars out of the fridge, growth will resume. Keep temperatures below 90 F for most species of mushrooms. Too much heat will slow growth and eventually kill the mushrooms. You want a place that's dust and bug free. Closet shelves are fine, in my experience. You don't want the storage area to be airtight. Shrooms have to breathe just like any other living organism. Everything must be AS STERILE AS POSSIBLE. Making some kind of super clean box to store the jars in is recommended, but not necessary using this method.

Using A Sporeprint Will Require

• A sporeprint from a strain of psychedelic mushrooms. Make sure it's the real thing, and that it's not contaminated with anything, dust, for example.
• Something to scrape the spores off the print into the jar. You want something like a stiff metal wire with a handle, so you can heat the end red hot in a flame to sterilize it without burning your fingers. I find that a probe from a biology dissection kit works wonderfully.
• A flame source to sterilize whatever you use to scrape the spores off the print. You can use a lighter if you've never made an alcohol lamp.
• If you know what you are doing, an alcohol lamp is not hard to make out of a small jar filled with rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball as a wick.

Using A Spore Syringe Will Require

• A spore syringe from a strain of psychedelic mushrooms.
• A flame source to sterilize the syringe. You can use a lighter if you've never made an alcohol lamp.

which leads me to the....

• optional materials: germ-killing soap for washing hands, rubbing alcohol for sterilizing hands, etc., cottonballs, surgical gloves, dust masks, hair-nets, an air-filtering machine, a couple 1 gallon jugs of distilled water, a spray bottle, bleach. (As you can see, this is all stuff which will help to make things a bit more sterile -- definitely recommended!)

Procedure For Growing Magic Mushrooms

This is the procedure I follow for the rice-cake method of propagating psychedelic mushrooms. I use this method for a number of reasons. One is that my first ever batch consisted of 6 jars of manure medium and 6 of the brown rice medium, I found the rice cakes produced more 'shrooms, and for a longer period of time than did the manure-filled jars. Rice has obvious advantages in that it's easy to obtain -- no trekking through a pasture looking for fresh cowshit!
Also, the manure stinks like hell when cooked in the pressure cooker! Perhaps the biggest advantage to the rice cake method is that when the rice cake no longer produces crops of 'shrooms (about 2 mos.), you can actually consume the rice cake itself!! Given, of course, that you detect no contaminants on the rice cake (molds or bacteria). When mushroom growth stops, the rice cake can provide a trip for 2-4 people.

1. Turn off the air-conditioner, fans, or anything else that might cause a draft in the place you're going to do this. It is very important to work in a draft-free area. Turning the A/C off will allow the dust in the room to settle (including the heavier mold spores which can contaminate your rice-cake medium.)
2. Set up the pressure cooker, make sure you read the manual if you have one. You don't want the damn pressure cooker exploding, or anything like that. Wash out the pressure cooker for good measure, and also wash the jars and lids. I wouldn't use a towel to dry them out, though, you'll just wipe germs & dust back on 'em.
3. Wash yourself, too. It's recommended that you wear a long sleeved shirt, and to pull your hair back or wear a cap or hair-net. I don't think that the dust mask would be necessary at this point, maybe later, though.
4. For each quart-size canning jar, add 1/4 cup brown rice and 1/3 to 1/2 cup water.

1. 
   
   I use the distilled water that you can buy in any grocery store, I don't trust tap water. Fill 6 or 7 jars with this mixture, or as many as will fit into your pressure cooker without stacking or jamming them in there. Place the lids on the jars, with the rubber UP, and leave the lids very loose.
2. Place the jars on the bottom rack of the pressure cooker. I recommend using the rack, that way the jars won't tip and spill as the water boils around them. Using the rack also keeps them from breaking from the heat of the burner directly below them. For a 17 quart pressure cooker, add about 3 quarts of water, but not so much that the jars start to float and tip over. Again, I use distilled water for this.
3. Now, follow the directions for sealing the pressure cooker. Some recommend that you rub a dab of cooking oil on the seal, so that it seals properly and is easier to close and open. Do it right. Do it by the book. Turn the stove on its highest setting and allow the pressure inside the cooker to build up to 15 lbs. Once the pressure inside the cooker has reached 15 lbs., you want to maintain it at that level for one complete hour. You may have to turn down the stove for brief periods so that the pressure doesn't rise to unsafe levels above 15 lbs. When the hour has passed, turn off the stove and LET THE PRESSURE COOKER COOL BEFORE OPENING! Also, don't try to rush the cooling process, as the jars may crack.
4. Just before opening the pressure cooker, wash up again, maybe use rubbing alcohol or put on surgical gloves. Now is the time for dust masks (although I usually use my shirt to keep from breathing germs on the jars). Long sleeves and a hat or whatever is recommended because literally millions of germs are falling off your body at any given moment. Sterility and the absence of drafts are of utmost importance from here on out... (some books recommend filling a spray bottle with a 10% bleach / 90 % water solution and using it to mist the air in the room to further reduce airborne contaminants.)
5. Open the pressure cooker and let the jars cool until they're pretty close to room temp. If you remove the jars too soon, they will crack and you will have to start over with new jars, so it pays to be a little patient. You may want to tighten the lids a bit so air/germs can't contaminate the rice cakes. When the jars cool off, you're ready to go.
6. If You Are Using A Spore Syringe
   
   
   --- Shake it up gently to distribute the spores.
   

   --- Then sterilize the metal needle with your flame source. Not so hot that you melt plastic parts of the syringe, just so you make sure the end of the metal needle has been touched by flame for a second or two only. After it has been flamed you can clean it off with a cottonball or something similar that has rubbing alcohol or some other type of germ killer on it.
   --- Lift the lid off the jar and set it down on a sterile surface, with the inside face down. OR let a friend hold the lid for you. Make sure the person has washed/sterilized his/her hands as well as you have.
   --- You can add 1cc of solution or more to each jar. The solution can be dripped onto the rice in several spots so it mixes over a larger area than it would if it were dripped onto the same spot. Try to avoid touching anything with the syringe. If you do touch anything, wipe it off with the cottonball and germ killer. A 10cc spore syringe can inoculate up to ten jars.​

   
   

   If You Are Using A Sporeprint
   --- It is time to heat your wire loop/probe/whatever until it is GLOWING RED.
   Put on your dust mask or pull your shirt up over your nose and mouth.
   --- Lift the lid off the jar and set it down on a sterile surface, with the inside face down. OR let a friend hold the lid for you. Make sure the person has washed/sterilized his/her hands as well as you have.
   
   --- Get out your sporeprint and hold it over the open jar at an acute angle. Use the sterilized wire loop/probe to gently scrape and tap the sporeprint to get the spores down onto the rice cake. If you can see dark specks fall onto the rice, you've done it sufficiently -- anything you can see is probably several thousand spores. A sporeprint the size of a nickel can easily inoculate a dozen jars.​
7. Screw the jar's lid on tightly and shake the jar until the rice cake breaks up. This will allow the spores to spread throughout the rice medium, thus increasing the chances for success. A good way to start the process is to inspect the jars carefully for cracks, invert the jar, and strike the lid against the heel of your hand. Next, unscrew the lid until it almost comes off -- this allows for air to get into the jar. I usually just screw the lid on about 3/4 of a turn -- just enough where it won't fall off easily.
8. When you've done this for all your jars, put the jars in a safe, clean place with a fairly constant temperature, a dark place is best. In 3 days to 2 weeks you should see white, fluffy mycelia appear (looks like white fuzz). Any other color of fuzz (green, black, etc.) is mold, and the jar should be disposed of. I'm not kidding about this! Certain contaminants, molds in particular, can cause illness or even death if you ingest the contaminated 'shrooms. It's better to be safe than sorry, believe me. Also be on the lookout for bacterial infections of the rice medium. These will often appear as colored (orange or pink) runny or clammy looking gunk in with the rice. These should be thrown out immediately as well. Bacterial infections may also give off a kind of putrid odor, but of course you should not be taking the lids off the jars at all during this stage. Now, the rice itself will get very soft as a result of the pressure cooking, and the initial shaking of the jar may smear gel-looking gunk all over the insides of the jar. But by comparing with the rest of the jars you should be able to tell the difference between this gunk and a bacterial infection.
9. This is not actually another step because you're done! Just sit back and wait for nature to take its course! Shrooms are pretty much maintenance-free until fruiting starts to occur. It should take anywhere from 2 weeks to 1 month for the mycelia to completely permeate the rice medium, then it will start getting these stringy looking or fan shaped runners in the white fuzzy growth. Mushroom formation is not far off, and the jars should be getting a couple of hours of light per day -- fluorescent is OK, and natural sunlight is superb, just make sure the jars don't get too warm. Of course at all stages be on the lookout for any possible contaminants in the mycelia. By the way, as the mycelia mature, they may start staining blue in spots, due to bruising, I think -- so don't mistake this for a mold infection, but keep a close eye on any change in color from the white coloring. The 'shrooms first appear as tiny white pinheads and then the caps will darken (in P. cubensis) to a lovely reddish brown. When the 'shrooms are growing the lids on the jars should be very loose to allow for air exchange.

Mushrooms grow best in an environment with a humidity of over 90%, so if you think that your 'shrooms may need a more moist environment, one thing to do is to simply use a spray bottle to spray boiled or distilled water directly onto the lids of the jars.
I find that the moisture condenses inside the jars and runs down the inside of the jars, moisturizing the mycelia. You could also VERY LIGHTLY mist the surface of the rice cake if it looks dry.
You don't want things TOO wet, however, as this will promote mold/bacteria growth and actually inhibit mushroom formation. Another possible method is to replace the lids with a double layer of paper towel which is misted daily -- although I would think that not having an actual lid on the jar would invite contamination.
Just my personal opinion. It is important that air exchange takes place in the storage area -- this becomes more important as fruiting occurs, as the mycelia gives off CO [SIZE=-2]2[/SIZE] and needs O [SIZE=-2]2[/SIZE] . Remember that CO [SIZE=-2]2[/SIZE] is heavier than normal air, so it might be good to tip the jars a few times a day to let the CO [SIZE=-2]2[/SIZE] dissipate out of the jar.


Harvesting Magic Mushrooms

'Shrooms are "ripe" as soon as the white membrane connecting the cap to the stem has broken somewhat, although you don't want to pick them before they have reached their full size! To harvest an individual mushroom, wash your hands well, I use rubbing alcohol, too. Then take the lid off the jar and grasp the mushroom firmly near the base. You may need to use a pair of sterilized tweezers to do this, which is what I usually do, I avoid placing germy hands inside the jars. A brisk twisting motion will help to free the 'shroom from the mycelia. If it is too difficult to harvest them using those methods, you can clean you hands, wash a small knife (preferably with anti-bacterial soap), dip the blade in alcohol, flame it for several seconds, then use the tip of the sterilized knife to cut the mushroom as close to the rice cake as possible.


Storing And Eating Magic Mushrooms

Avoid crushing fresh mushrooms before storing them. The blue staining that is common in psychedelic mushrooms is evidence of oxidation, meaning that the active ingredients (psilocin and psilocybin) are being oxidized, too, rendering the 'shrooms inactive. While refrigeration is recommended, freezing fresh mushrooms should be avoided, since the expansion of the freezing water in the cells ruptures the cell walls and thus opens them up for oxidation. Mushrooms that were frozen while fresh may be an attractive blue color, but they are inactive.
Storage of fresh mushrooms should be in a breathable container such as a paper bag stored in a refrigerator, avoid putting fresh 'shrooms in a ziploc bag, as they may become slimy or moldy. I have heard of people also storing fresh shrooms by chopping them up and mixing them into honey, The 'shroom honey is then spread on bread or whatever and eaten.
There are a few methods of drying mushrooms, although I have found dried shrooms to be MUCH weaker than fresh ones. One way to dry them is by placing them on a cookie sheet in an oven on the lowest temp. with the door slightly open. Simply drying them in sunlight is said to work also.
My main problem with dried shrooms is that in my experience they are not anywhere near as potent as fresh 'shrooms. I believe the reason for this is that the two psychoactive ingredients (psilocin and psilocybin) are present in equal amounts in fresh shrooms. BUT, psilocin is an unstable compound compared to psilocybin, and breaks down readily when exposed to heat and oxygen. The normal dosage for dried shrooms is 1-5 grams. But I have never had a "trip" from dried shrooms only with the fresh stuff. I ate 4 grams of dried 'shrooms once and only got a buzz like being stoned or drunk.
So, I like my shrooms fresh, and of course, I have that luxury since I grow my own. Whether they are dried or fresh, there are many interesting ways to ingest them. My current favorite method is to blend 3-4 fresh ones in a blender with orange juice, the effects are fantastic and the taste is tolerable.
I believe this is due in part to the fact that the shrooms are almost completely liquefied by the blending process, releasing the "good stuff" into the orange juice and making it more readily absorbed by the stomach. Some people may say that the vitamin C in the OJ also enhances the effects, but this may be just a myth. Another good method, one which I have used to eat the rice cakes, was to chop the rice cake (or shrooms), and brown them for JUST a few seconds in butter or margarine before pouring in an omelet mixture. Mushroom omelets. Not only a meal, but a good trip, and a tasty way to ingest the shrooms, (I happen to dislike the taste of shrooms by themselves).
Yet another method of taking shrooms is to make a milkshake in a blender, and add the shrooms, you can make kind of a "strawberry smoothie" in this way. Remember though, that dairy products may delay/block the absorption of certain substances. Another method of ingestion is to boil the shrooms, fresh or dried (or a rice cake) in a couple cups of water for about 5 minutes (until they have sunk, one source says), and then either add a tea bag for hot tea, or make Kool-Aid with the cooled water (straining out the shrooms, of course).
Sprinkling fresh or dried shrooms (chopped) onto pizza, or into spaghetti sauce is another treat, fun for a "shroom party". Since psilocin and psilocybin are soluble in both water and alcohol, soaking shrooms in any liquor will release these active ingredients into the liquor, making for a powerfully intoxicating liquor a la' the way an "Emerald Dragon" is made with marijuana... I have tried smoking a couple dried shroom caps, but only got the slightest buzz from the VERY harsh smoke, no real effects to tell the truth.
I should mention again that once shroom production has really tapered off (and you'll be able to tell) after 2-3 months, the rice cake can be eaten/used, if you closely examine it and decide that there is no green or black mold contaminant present.
I should note that the rice cake will probably be all kinds of funky colors -- a mix of white, steel blue, gray, maybe even purple in places from spores falling on it! I have ingested several scary-looking rice cakes, however, with no ill effects. Again, USE YOUR HEAD! If in doubt, toss it out, it's not worth a trip to the hospital. A single rice cake is enough for 2-4 people to trip on, although 2 is probably the better figure. Some of my best trips were on half a rice cake chopped up and cooked in an omelet!
That's what I love about the rice-cake method, when the shrooms stop growing there's no waste. Speaking of no waste, if I ever had a rice cake that I didn't want to risk eating I might use it to inoculate a compost pile or a pasture full of cow shit by inserting a small piece into each cow-pie or into the compost pile. Just think, you could start a culture of wild mushrooms in your area.


Making Spore Prints Of Magic Mushrooms

This is really easy, just wash your hands well, then take a fresh shroom and gently twist the cap off away from the stem ( OR, I usually use a sterilized knife blade to cut the stem off as close to the cap as I can without touching it too much). Then place the cap, gills down, on a sterile card or piece of glass.
Cover the cap and card with a clean, small container to keep drafts from blowing the spores away, and to prevent dust/contaminants from settling on the card/glass. I usually use a small juice glass for this purpose. Leave the covered 'shroom cap on the card/glass overnight and, voila! I suggest folding the card the next day and keeping it in an airtight container (small ziploc bag) in a refrigerator.
I have been told that spore prints will keep for up to a year in an airtight refrigerated (not frozen) environment. From personal experience I know that they are still viable after 3 months. Oh, by the way, try to find some use for the 'shroom cap after you've collected the spores from it, it's still psychoactive, so I'm sure you can think of something to do with it.


APPENDIX: Additional tips for more optimal yields

Here are some additional tips, based on what I have learned from The Mushroom Cultivator. One thing which comes to mind is that 86 F is the best temp. for starting the growth process.
Something to remember though, is that the temperature INSIDE the jars will be several degrees higher than the surrounding air temp. Growth of the mycelia generates small amounts of heat. The Mushroom Cultivator tells all about decreasing the temperature at various stages of growth to promote fruiting (the term they use for mushroom growth). After reading The Mushroom Cultivator, I would also advise building a simple growth chamber. This will serve a number of purposes:

1. it will create a more sterile environment, guarding against contamination.
2. it will help keep the temp. high and more constant.
3. it will help keep the humidity high and more constant.
4. it will provide a place to hide the jars, rather than just having them out on a shelf in your closet or wherever.

Here's what I recommend: get a Styrofoam ice chest, one that's large enough to hold the 12 jars you've got. I used one I got at Circle K for less than $5 bucks. You may want to line the inside with aluminum foil, to increase the reflection of light within the chamber, which will be good when you're ready to expose the cultures to light.
At some point you'll need to cut a large hole in the lid -- cut out as much of the lid as you can, but make sure that you leave enough of a margin on it so that it still functions as a lid. Then use some kind of tape to tape Saran Wrap over the hole. Now you have a lid which allows light into the grow-box, but helps to keep out dust, mold, and other contaminants.
You don't have to mess around with the lid right away, though. The Mushroom Cultivator suggests leaving the jars in TOTAL darkness for the first week or two -- even to the point that they suggest using only a red light to examine the jars for growth and/or contaminants. The book also suggests NO air exchanges during this initial growth phase. I guess you could leave the lids loose like I suggested, but leave the lid on the box.
Oh, by the way, in The Botany and Chemistry of Hallucinogens by Schultes and Hoffman, they say that the medium adult oral dose is 4-8 mg psilocybin. And that dried 'shrooms contain 2 to 4 percent psilocybin -- but this was from a sample of Psilocybe mexicana, and i think P. cubensis may be more potent.
They also mention something else that's interesting. They say that psilocybin and psilocin are present in equal amounts in fresh 'shrooms, AND that psilocin is something like 1.4 times as psychoactive as psilocybin. Given the fact that psilocin is sensitive to oxidation, and breaks down upon drying (i suppose), this seems like a probable reason that fresh ones are so much more potent than dried ones.
I have recently discovered a method of drying 'shrooms without heat, which may help them to retain a potency level similar to fresh ones, although I haven't tried any of the 'shrooms which I have dried by this method so I don't know for sure that this is true. What I do is cover the bottom of a shallow baking dish with a layer of uncooked (dry) rice, usually the rice that was left over in the bag from the initial start-up of the procedure. Then I place a clean paper towel over this layer of rice and place freshly harvested mushrooms on top of the paper towel. Then I cover the dish with another clean paper towel and place the dish in my refrigerator.
I find that the rice absorbs all the moisture from the 'shrooms, and they are completely dried within a week. Be careful not to pile the fresh mushrooms on top of one another in the dish, spread them out directly on the paper towel or they may not dry, this creates the possibility of them getting moldy, which will RUIN them! Of course, if your refrigerator is unusually humid, the 'shrooms may take longer to dry out, if at all.
Here is something else which may be helpful. Taken without permission from Paul Stamets' book, The Mushroom Cultivator. [Brackets] indicate comments from the author of this file.


Parameters for Optimal Growth of Magic Mushrooms

[Adhere to these as much as you feel comfortable with. Like I said before, I have obtained satisfactory results by keeping the jars on a closet shelf from start to finish. But trying to follow these guide-lines will certainly lead to better crop yields.]
SPAWN RUN: [1st stage of growth]Relative Humidity90%Substrate Temp.84-86 F.
[Thermal death limits at 106 F.]Duration10-14 days.CO [SIZE=-2]2[/SIZE]5000-10000 ppmFresh Air Exchanges0 per hour.LightIncubation in total darkness.
PRIMORDIA FORMATION: [pinhead formation]Relative Humidity90+%Air Temperature74-78 F.Duration6-10 days.CO [SIZE=-2]2[/SIZE]less than 5000 ppm.Fresh Air Exchanges1-3 per hour.
[but remember this air MUST be free of contaminants such as dust.]LightDiffuse natural or exposure for 12-16 hours/day of grow-lux type fluorescent high in blue spectra at the 480 nanometer wavelength.
[I find that a regular fluorescent works fine, but I do try to let my jars get some natural sunlight whenever possible -- making sure, of course, that the jars don't get too warm.]
CROPPING: [harvesting mushrooms]Relative Humidity85-92%Air Temperature74-78 F.CO [SIZE=-2]2[/SIZE]less than 5000 ppm.Fresh Air Exchanges1-3 per hour.
[but be careful not to contaminate 'em!]Flushing PatternEvery 5-8 days.
[this means a new crop or "flush" of shrooms should appear every 5 -8 days.]Harvest StageWhen the cap becomes convex and soon after the partial veil ruptures.LightIndirect natural or same as above.
[hint: use same as above.]
Moisture Content of Mushrooms:92% water
8% dry matter
P. cubensis have up to 1% psilocin and/or psilocybin per dried gram. I would estimate approximately double that for fresh 'shrooms

Good post very informative I'll be doing this in the near future kiss-ass

Awesome but there is another site for growing magic mushrooms. I don't see how this is relevant.

Growing mushrooms is fun buy you are wasting space on this forum for something that has nothing to do with it.

Intresting stuff for sure I love shrooms but there never around this could be a problem solver

my thoughts exactly. Problem solver. Very informative post even though it was in the wrong area of RIU

LIke the post..

I went in to growin shrooms like I did weed.. Research research research... Well, I probably only needed 10% of that research haha. When you get down to it and get your hands dirty, growin shrooms is easy easy easy

I use the 'monotub' method insetad of cakes.

That is just to much to read and take in to grow shrooms haha. Maybe Ill try. Someone break it down(one of you savvy shroom growers)

There may be a lot to read but it seems quite simple.... Sterility, Temps, And RH are the most important concepts it seems. And it seems its just like Daisy said. Easy easy easy.

kronic1989 said:

That is just to much to read and take in to grow shrooms haha. Maybe Ill try. Someone break it down(one of you savvy shroom growers)

Click to expand...

Go to the http://www.shroomery.org/

There is so much information there and they have teks (techniques... much like guides) with pictures and shit to help you. If it's your first time you can stick with the PF tek (which I'm pretty sure is described above. I didn't read it all.) Being sterile is the most important thing and keeping a high RH during the fruiting stage is also important. If you really want to try and grow definitely buy a Pressure Cooker. You'll thank yourself for it.

Here's a link to a PF tek: http://www.shroomery.org/10256/PF-Tek-v2

Ok ok here we go... Super super basics... If you dont know the few details, not gonna work

1 - Put grain in jar with right amount of water. Pressure cook to kill everything

2 - Squirt spore syringe in to jars (1 syringe can do 10 jars in my experience)

3 - Store in darkness and wait till its all nice an white and fuzzy

4 - Fill rubbermaid with hydrated cococoir, vents for gas exchange but not fresh air. High humidity, clear top.

5 - Add grain to coir, stir. Put in darkness (or cover with black trashbag). Wait till all nice and white and fuzzy.

6 - Pull vents out, boom fresh air, OMG LIGHT (12/12 with one 23w flouro is all i use)!!! OMG OXYGEN!! I'VE HIT AIR! MAKE SHROOMS LOTS AND LOTS OF SHROOMS! (thats they mycelium speaking)


And yeah shroomery.org has all your answers

Pick and repeat.

What if i skip all that & just put the spores on the grain ?

I've read in many places that dried are way stronger than fresh, like 4g of dry is = to 20g of wet.

The original post is the PF TEK method of growing 'shrooms, only with several major ommissions, and a few additions which only complicate the method.
If you want to grow 'shrooms, google "PF TEK". Follow the simple directions and you will end up with shrooms instead of jars filled with contamination or jars half filled with mycelium that will never fruit shrooms.

Like others have said, this isn't relevant to this forum, but I'm new to RIU, and have been growing mushies for about 6 years, so maybe I can finally give some input here. I'm going to keep this as brief as possible. This method yields me, on average, a dry pound per month.

1. Buy wild bird seed, available at any pet store, with a high millet content. I use "Great Choice" brand from the local retail pet store, comes in a blue bag. Soak the bird seed for 24 hours. Pick all the garbage that floats out with a strainer and throw it away. (this can be done before or after the soak) After the 24 hour soak you'll notice how gross the water is. So you'll pour the water you used to soak out into the sink through a fine strainer, dump the bird seed back into the bucket and fill the bucket to about the same level as the bird seed. Keep straining the seed until the water in the 5gal bucket isn't all murky and cloudy. Usually this take about 8 or 9 times, also stir the bird seed as you're filling the bucket each time. Basically here, you're just cleaning the seed up without letting any of it go down the drain, because trust me dumping a bucket of bird seed in your sink fucking sucks. Small amounts can build up over time, creating a blockage, so be careful if you're doing this in an apartment.

2. Fill wide mouth quart jars HALF way with the bird seed you soaked for 24 hours. Drill 4 1/4" holes in each lid, I do this in stacks of 3 lids. The lid should be in this order: Glass jar -> a square of tyvek -> jar lid with holes-> screw on lid ring. The tyvek square should be big enough so that when you screw the lid ring on, some tyvek pokes out from under the lid, creating a nice seal. The tyvek allows for filtered air exchange, clean oxygen for the mycelium without mold/fungus spores to compete with for the newly sterilized grain.There is no benefit to putting the lid on very tight. Just tighten it like you would your jelly jar in the fridge. Cover the top half of the jar with foil, so that NO water can get into the jar. Make sure the holes you drilled don't poke through your foil. Make sure the foil seals tightly around the gripping of the lid ring. Use two layers of foil if you must. If you don't do this part correctly, your jars will have water in them after pressure cooking.

3. Pressure cook the jars at 15psi for 1 hour. Let the pressure cooker cool off on its own for 24 hours, don't try to rush the cooling process.

4. Cut two holes in a clear rubber-made bin enough to put your arms through. Sterilize the inside of this bin with cleaning solution or alcohol. Wear a doctors face mask. Turn off your AC and allow the air to become still for about 20-30 minutes. Put the jars directly from the pressure cooker into the clear bin and put the lid on. Come back in 15 minutes after you let the air settle inside the bin. Remove foil from jars and inject about 2cc of spore solution or liquid culture. Sterilize the needle between every jar with denatured alcohol flame. I cut a hole in the top of a glass baby food jar, fed a wick (camping section by lanterns) through and filled the bottle with denatured alcohol(paint section).

5. Cover your drilled jar holes with micropore tape after you inject the spores. Put in a dark place that wont get over 85 degrees. Wait 2 weeks. Vigorously shake the jars. Wait another 2 weeks, or until the jars are fully colonized and solid white.

6. Buy Reptile bedding at the pet store. I use Eco Earth brand. This is coco coir, it comes in solid dry bricks. Boil 4 quarts of water. Put 1 brick of coir and 2 quarts of vermiculite in a 5gal bucket, then pour in the boiling water. Let this sit for 45minutes, then open the bucket and stir very well (carefully, it will be hot). Put the lid back on and let it sit for about 8 hours, or until room temperature.

7. Google how to make a monotub to get info on where to put the holes, but you'll cut 4 2" holes into the two side of the bin for air circulation, 8 holes total. Put the coir/verm/water mix and 5 quarts (which will actually be 2.5 quarts of actual spawn) of spawn in a rubbermade bin and mix thoroughly. Let sit in darkness for 7 days with the holes covered by duct tape.

8. Once the tub is fully colonized, remove the duct tape, put polyfil (pillow stuffing) in the holes to allow filtered air to enter the rubbermade bin. Put somewhere with normal air circulation and I put a T12 6' light on near mine for about 5 hours per day. In a week you'll start seeing shrooms. Pick them when they're fully grown shrooms, everyone knows what that looks like.

Like others have said, growing shrooms is eaaaasy. If you can grow cannabis, you can most certainly grow shrooms. This guide is definitely short, but one big thing I found with shrooms is, just be patient and you'll figure it out in a few months at the most, and don't overthink things. Humidity can be a bitch to get right, but when you do, you can eye your humidity. After about a month I never used a hygrometer again. Patience and sterility is most important, if you have a dirty living environment, you will fail miserably at growing shrooms, be obsessed with cleanliness, at least when you're doing shroom related stuff. I have so many shrooms now I can't even begin to get rid of all of them. I had to stop making them because I had no more freezer room. Once you get the process down, you won't even have to think anymore to do it.

Post questions here or send me PM. I learned everything I know from shroomery.org Look up Damien's 50/50 coir tek. I read so much on those forums about contamination issues, but I keep my place pretty clean and have a 100% success rate, even with liquid cultures, so don't let the bad experiences you'll read about discourage you from trying, just keep your place clean and use common sense every now and then.

Thanks for the info duderugs. Sounds solid and I seen some things I want to try. Esp the rubbermaid inocculation hood.

Sinsay said:

What if i skip all that & just put the spores on the grain ?

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Massive contamination and no mycelial growth.

One advantage of using spore syringes (widely available on internet and you can make your own) is you can be almost certain that they are sterile. A contaminated syringe will be full of a cloudy liquid, and the liquid contained therein will have a noticeable odor, usually smelling of rotten apples. A sterile syringe will be clear. If a sterile syringe is left to sit still for a few days, you may be able to see a few tiny "clumps" floating around. These clumps are thousands and thousands of spores adhering together. Shake the syringe well and the clumps disappear, tore apart and lonely.
By the way... If you use a spore syringe (recommended) to innoculate your growing medium per the method described in this thread, do not squirt the innocula in several places as suggested elswhere on the net. The 'shroom growers goal is outsmarting contamination. If you introduce contamination to your growing medium, the 'shroom mycelium will have a much better chance of overgrowing the contaminant if there is only one inocculation point.

Ok, I give up. How can I contact an admin. in this forum? I meant "somnilover" (as in papaver somniferum) as my name, but mis-typed it into smonilover or whatever. It really confuses the hell out of me when I log in and it looks even dumber than the name I actually wanted.

I don't use a pressure cooker, I use my biggest Gumbo pot.Work's great.90 minutes and then I let them cool overnight.

For all that reading i hope these mushrooms are really magic,are they like the beans jack sold his cows for lol

Zcomfort said:

I've read in many places that dried are way stronger than fresh, like 4g of dry is = to 20g of wet.

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wrong.. I have had much more visually intense trips off wet mush... the reason that 4g dried = 39g wet is because their wet. their 90% water... psilocybin doesn't get stronger as it dries.