Lightgreen2k
Well-Known Member
How did nuke em work?
HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%: " Naturally - no chemicals"
- Thread starter calibuzz
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thegambler
Well-Known Member
The pepper sprays listed throughout this thread is just about the worse thing to spray on your plants. It isn't very effective, and it imparts a "hot" burn to the buds, hurting your throat and lungs. I've even tried a warm water dip after trimming- it didn't help.
Nuke Em is just like most of the other products, it's mildly effective but won't eliminate the problem and in a week or two, it will be back worse than over.
The Sure- Shots and other hanging tags are all carcinogenic, the last thing you want your buds and leaves absorbing. They may be partially effective, but probably the most dangerous to your health.
Cool the room down, even if you have to lessen the light intensity some and try to spray the sun leaves underneath to keep them moist. Humidity should rise, and you'll see a noticeable slowdown of mite activity giving you a chance to kill more of them. Remove the worse of the leaves to remove active mites and eggs, and even consider removing and isolating the worse of the plants before the issues spread to the whole room.
I used spinosad (Forbid 4F) a week into flowering and a citrus based insect killer for the floor, pots, walls, etc. If they show up, it won't be until well into flowering and won't matter much at that point.
Nuke Em is just like most of the other products, it's mildly effective but won't eliminate the problem and in a week or two, it will be back worse than over.
The Sure- Shots and other hanging tags are all carcinogenic, the last thing you want your buds and leaves absorbing. They may be partially effective, but probably the most dangerous to your health.
Cool the room down, even if you have to lessen the light intensity some and try to spray the sun leaves underneath to keep them moist. Humidity should rise, and you'll see a noticeable slowdown of mite activity giving you a chance to kill more of them. Remove the worse of the leaves to remove active mites and eggs, and even consider removing and isolating the worse of the plants before the issues spread to the whole room.
I used spinosad (Forbid 4F) a week into flowering and a citrus based insect killer for the floor, pots, walls, etc. If they show up, it won't be until well into flowering and won't matter much at that point.
thenotsoesoteric
Well-Known Member
I've been successful with dipping in neem 3-4x a week for at least 2-3 weeks. Of course this is when the plants were smaller in veg. Bigger plants and flowering plants are trouble. At that point it's so much easy to just start over, lol.
Monster Gardens
Active Member
Spinosad is not Forbid 4F. Forbid4F is Spiromesifen. One is a bioproduct of soil bacteria and the other made in a lab. Both are deemed for nonuse on Cannabis because of their harmful and hazardous properties. Spraying your plants, room or surroundings with these resulting in contact with skin or eyes will pose health risks..... long-term health risks. It's actually quite alarming to hear that people are still spraying these sorts of products.
****If it says Bayer on the label avoid it
I'm willing to send you a free sample of the product listed above, PureCrop1, just for peace of mind...
thegambler
Well-Known Member
I stand somewhat corrected. Actually it's Bonide Spinosad I use, which is approved for organic agriculture. It's made from soil bacteria and has a very low (if any) level of toxicity. It's considered somewhat effective for mites and whiteflies. I wouldn't hesitate to use this product for mites if used in veg or early flowering. It's totally organic and considered totally harmless to pets, people and plants.
Regarding Forbid 4F, it is Spiromesifen, a Bayer chemical that contains uniconazole, a long lasting (in water) carcinogen, It is toxic to fish and most insects but has a low human risk of harm from inhalation or skin contact. It is highly effective and I've read two reports stating that if used in veg, no trace was found in tested finished buds (as opposed to Avid and Floramite). Forbid for marijuana is widely used because it has a 45 day residual, meaning it continues to kill mites after application, but i'm not recommending it either.
Out of the two, Spinosad is the proper choice and is readily available in garden stores. I'll be happy to try PureCrop1 and give everyone an honest and thorough review of the product- shoot me a message.
Regarding Forbid 4F, it is Spiromesifen, a Bayer chemical that contains uniconazole, a long lasting (in water) carcinogen, It is toxic to fish and most insects but has a low human risk of harm from inhalation or skin contact. It is highly effective and I've read two reports stating that if used in veg, no trace was found in tested finished buds (as opposed to Avid and Floramite). Forbid for marijuana is widely used because it has a 45 day residual, meaning it continues to kill mites after application, but i'm not recommending it either.
Out of the two, Spinosad is the proper choice and is readily available in garden stores. I'll be happy to try PureCrop1 and give everyone an honest and thorough review of the product- shoot me a message.
Monster Gardens
Active Member
Hey Gambler, as Spinosad is still readily available it is not on the list of approved products to spray on Cannabis, nor is Forbid. Spinosad wasn't entirely blacklisted because of any harm that it causes after contacting skin, but more so the effects it's residual has when combusted post-harvest. This also applies to Forbid and the others, like Avid/Lucid. We've consulted numerous PhD's and do believe that there is a time and a place for products like this but typically growers are unaware of the proper safety procedures necessary when spraying so we lean on the side of caution.
Let's get you on PureCrop1!
6ixtynin9
Well-Known Member
Any science behind this claim or just your opinions? So you're saying Capsaicin does not kill or deter pests? Tell that to my thriving and mite free plants that are sprayed with a pepper solution. My bud doesn't "burn" either. Yes, people can be intolerant to pepper, which is why they don't mix it to a strong enough strength to do enough damage, which is why it don't work. My throat and lungs don't hurt either when I spray with pepper. It's a tried and true method from way back in the old world that has been used for hundreds of years. Don't knock something you've never tried. Or at least tried using the proper type of pepper. No, bell pepper, paprika, cayenne, serrano, black pepper, peppercorns and jalapenos will not work. Any pepper above 250,000 on the Scoville Heat Unit will work great though. When paired with garlic oil extract, it works wonders.
thegambler
Well-Known Member
Let's be clear here........I wasn't saying that "supermarket" peppers like jalapenos and such would not act as a deterrent. But for sure, they won't kill off an entire mite population on plants. I have not tried capsaicin, but have tried most every pepper my local supermarket has to offer- the ones readily available. In veg, try them all, what the heck. In flowering, all these peppers impart a "hot" spice to the flowers, irritating the mouth, throat and lungs to most smokers. I've tried numerous ways to remove the pepper residue, i.e. spraying them down, dipping before and after harvest, etc..........and it would appear since the peppers are oil based, nothing had much effect on reducing or removing the "burn" while smoking. Very irritating!
It's also important to realize what you are getting yourself into while mixing the concoction and spraying it around a room. It's nasty stuff so don't let it touch your skin, don't breathe it in, etc. Boiling up the mix also will give your kitchen an irritating vapor for a few hours too. Just not worth it, IMO. If you have a small room, a couple plants- I can see the possibilities maybe. For me, typically 24 plants grown at a time- no friggin way, never again.
Coming from an organic background (I ran the U.S. 2nd largest organic farm- 875 acres) for a number of years, I am always willing to give "organics" a try first. When it comes to mites, they are such tough buggers- better an atom bomb than a firecracker if you want to save a crop. Everyone has an opinion, especially on mites. I fought them for many years, crop after crop- they'd just keep showing up 2nd or 3rd week of flowering not matter what I did. Now I am mite free, 3rd crop in a row. I've detailed previously what I did to finally eliminate them, but not sure if it was in this thread or one of the other 500 mite threads on RIU...........
It's also important to realize what you are getting yourself into while mixing the concoction and spraying it around a room. It's nasty stuff so don't let it touch your skin, don't breathe it in, etc. Boiling up the mix also will give your kitchen an irritating vapor for a few hours too. Just not worth it, IMO. If you have a small room, a couple plants- I can see the possibilities maybe. For me, typically 24 plants grown at a time- no friggin way, never again.
Coming from an organic background (I ran the U.S. 2nd largest organic farm- 875 acres) for a number of years, I am always willing to give "organics" a try first. When it comes to mites, they are such tough buggers- better an atom bomb than a firecracker if you want to save a crop. Everyone has an opinion, especially on mites. I fought them for many years, crop after crop- they'd just keep showing up 2nd or 3rd week of flowering not matter what I did. Now I am mite free, 3rd crop in a row. I've detailed previously what I did to finally eliminate them, but not sure if it was in this thread or one of the other 500 mite threads on RIU...........
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
I have had buds that give me hot lung breath, being a bit rough to smoke, after using a strong chili spray a few weeks before harvest.
In more recent news I've used a strong chili spray in late veg, and 2 weeks later (now) I still get wrist burns trimming the undercanopy with gloves on
They're fun though.
I do think it works for eradicating spider mites.
I also do think it can cause irritation weeks later, at least without washing.
I actually consider the irritation of it a bit of a good thing, in the aspect that when I mix another insecticide in that I don't want to inhale or touch, the chili mixed with it is a strong flag to let me know when I've been clumsy and come into contact with it.
In more recent news I've used a strong chili spray in late veg, and 2 weeks later (now) I still get wrist burns trimming the undercanopy with gloves on
They're fun though.I do think it works for eradicating spider mites.
I also do think it can cause irritation weeks later, at least without washing.
I actually consider the irritation of it a bit of a good thing, in the aspect that when I mix another insecticide in that I don't want to inhale or touch, the chili mixed with it is a strong flag to let me know when I've been clumsy and come into contact with it.
6ixtynin9
Well-Known Member
I understand and respect where you're coming from. I can tolerate high amounts of heat as pepper is a must in my daily diet, this is why I can use my pepper concoction at such a high strength. I understand that using pepper is not for everyone, but with the right strength, it does get the job done. At least for me - Yes even on a heavy infestation with heavy webbing. I don't boil my pepper solution, i ferment it in water. Capsaicin is the active ingredient in pepper. It's what gives pepper it's heat properties. Capsaicin is also found in many of today's popular pesticides and insecticides, as well as many health product for human consumption or use (i.e. Icy Hot patches, BioFreeze, Natural Beeswax, Vick' s, etc. sound familiar?). If Capsaicin can - decrease the chances of cancer cells from forming, provides a good source of antioxidants and vitamin A & C, relieve muscle and joint pain, reduce high blood pressure, relieve nerve pain, reduce cholesterol, fight diabetes, and so much more for humans, imagine what it can do for plants.
thegambler
Well-Known Member
Thank you Monster Garden, my sample has been received and as promised, my new crop will begin shortly and I'll highlight it's application thru the grow (for as long as it lasts). I will say, although it was well packaged, it leaked all over- a slimy, soapy mess and I'm still not sure where the liquid came from as it seemed sealed but onward ho. For those who were questioning the ingredients, this is what was stated on the package:
Active ingredients: Soybean Oil (10%) and Corn Oil (5%)
Inactive ingredients: filtered water, glycerin, carrot, onion, orange fatty acids and vanillin (85%)
I will say I have used numerous products with soybean oil before, one being http://www.mantisplantprotection.com/get-rid-spider-mites/................there were some others too i.e. http://instantmitekiller.com/ and some horticultural oils. I have found anything oil based will impact and dry out/smother the stigma's (pollen catching hairs) so I'm wondering how these ingredients differ????
More to follow.............
Active ingredients: Soybean Oil (10%) and Corn Oil (5%)
Inactive ingredients: filtered water, glycerin, carrot, onion, orange fatty acids and vanillin (85%)
I will say I have used numerous products with soybean oil before, one being http://www.mantisplantprotection.com/get-rid-spider-mites/................there were some others too i.e. http://instantmitekiller.com/ and some horticultural oils. I have found anything oil based will impact and dry out/smother the stigma's (pollen catching hairs) so I'm wondering how these ingredients differ????
More to follow.............
Lightgreen2k
Well-Known Member
Lightgreen2k
Well-Known Member
Catch Up
Monster Gardens
Active Member
Yup, just haven't inquired about stocking it quite yet. How is it working for you?
Lightgreen2k
Well-Known Member
Its working well, but have a few.flyers.
Botanigard works the best, because of spores.of Beauveria bassiana. This is for special use and would advise special*** care. It comes.in a wettable powder or liquid es.
Jraffone14
New Member
Can you use the pepper spray on plants 4 weeks into flower? Will it affect the bud, kill it? Taste? Trichomes?
hi ryder
Well-Known Member
sorry to hear these bighters are still bothering people i threw the lot at my spidermites and won that was the first time i cant say what exactly did it because it might have been the peppers the neem oil or diamataceus earth the total cleansing with bleach solution or the ozone anyway next time i saw little orange feet sticking out through my leaves i cleaned the underside of the leaves with the pepper solution removed topsoil replaced it with a good layer of diamataceus earth and then 3minutes of low level 400/m ozone a couple of days later i cleaned the leaves again with neem oil 2minutes ozone and that was that i cant emphazie enough how much you have to clean its a terrible nuisance
good luck spidermitesarego
by the way sorry i dont know about spraying your buds might be allright close to harvest perhaps some one else knows
Med68w
Well-Known Member
If anyone is interested, I made a recipe that is based off of the SNS-217 spider mite control spray. Got a 30ml bottle of rosemary essential oil. 30ml of lavender essential oil and a quart size of safer insect killing soap but you can mix up your own soap and save even more, I just had some lying around so I used it as the base. General recipe for a gallon is no more than 10-15ml of Rosemary oil 5-10ml of Lavender oil and the quart of safer soap spray. I think the SNS-217 is actually Lauric acid? Found in coconut oil, but I read a couple articles that said lavender oil is effective as well, and that’s what was available at the store. This is just my interpretation of the ratios, I’m sure there’s someone on here that’s a lot smarter than me and can come up with an even better one. Just thought I’d add to the conversation and see what y’all thought. A gallon of SNS-217 ready to use is $60.00 so maybe this will save somebody a little cash. Smells a lot better than pepper spray too!
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PopTop
Well-Known Member
Sorry, tried the pepper thing never worked for regular mites let alone the 2 spotted kind the latter builds a resistance to what ever your using if you don't kill them on contact. I use captain jacks which is a spinosad, It's organic, found as a bacteria that grows in the soil of Jamaican rum processing, it kills them on contact again its an organic product, this along with blasts of compressed air (blows off eggs and mites) every 3 days, got rid of an infestation of the 2 spotted mites, took almost 3 weeks to get rid of them, 2 spotted mites lay 20 eggs a day, these eggs hatch in 3 days they become sexually mature in 5 days and a female only has to be impregnated once by a male to make more eggs, that's why you have to spray every 3 days, this works for me and is only my opinion.