MynamewouldbeJosh420
Active Member
Yes, so why apply predator bugs , they will lay their eggs and shit on your buds, and they will die on your buds.
HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%: " Naturally - no chemicals"
- Thread starter calibuzz
- Start date
hi ryder
Well-Known Member
the adverts say predator bugs just goaway when there are no more spider mites i am suspicious of that they must have an effect i would like to use ladybirds if anything, after the deed you can just gather them up and put them somewhere else till they are needed again. . the ozone is a real tool very effective so i probably wont find out about the mites now,, the demitaceus earth is on my list but it wont get mixed in with the earth any liquids will render it useless it will be sprinkled over dry earth or perlite as ive got a layer of that over the soil i reckon that helps too
MynamewouldbeJosh420
Active Member
They walk away, but their poop lingers, this can be seen under a magnifying glass.
Predator bugs are good when you have an outdoor garden. Praying mantises will eat each other, after they have eaten all the mites. Personally if I was growing outside I would just stick with the sprays.
If you try lady bugs, make sure you have the right ones! There are two types of bugs that people call ladybugs, one eats meat, one eats plants. do some research first, takes a second
MynamewouldbeJosh420
Active Member
Over never tried ozone, but I imagine it would be perfect for budding plant, thankfully I have never had mites during flowering, if I did, I would probably throw them out, or possibly try that ozone method. I would never use any sprayson budding ladies.
hi ryder
Well-Known Member
i just had the worst harvest yet because of them, never had them before , so when i saw the webbing just springing up here and there i falsely started treating for white powder mould , then the sprays and home brews for the mould then i saw some bud rot on my prized spacer in a panic i chopped them down dryed it and got rid of it quick,, next two attempts at growing produced webbing on the seedlings finaly i found out what it was (SPIDERMITES) chilli mix was good but i burnt the leaves hopeing nothing goes wrong this time 2 x afgan kush ryder, 1 x lennon auto 1x cream mandarine 1 x blueberry 1 x ak47 auto fingers crossed
MynamewouldbeJosh420
Active Member
Majorduke
Active Member
Good day fellow growers, not a newbie but new at this problem. Yep spider mites, not sure how I got them.. sterile buckets, distilled water, sterile environment, and happy frog as usual. I've seen lots of possible solution on here, but what I haven't been able to find is what would be safe for my seedlings as I found this problem early. The babies just broke dirt within the last couple days. Any suggestions on my situation are greatly appreciated
MynamewouldbeJosh420
Active Member
Diluted captain jacks, or start over if you can, boil the soil
Lacedwitgame
Well-Known Member
I DUNKED in spinosad...checked the next day & still seen mites.
Im about to dunk in neem, every 3 day for two weeks. Then ill wait 2 weeks and release predators.
If this doesnt work im gonna stop with the bullshit & just grab some floramite
Im about to dunk in neem, every 3 day for two weeks. Then ill wait 2 weeks and release predators.
If this doesnt work im gonna stop with the bullshit & just grab some floramite
MynamewouldbeJosh420
Active Member
That's not gonna work.
Spray with neem, spinosad, and azamax, everyday for the first 4 days. Spray every three days for 2 weeks after that.
kelevra1572
New Member
Co2 is the best, and cheapest way to kill mites...just take away the little fuckers oxygen, and they die...simple, each application is like three dollars, buying spary can get costly.
How do you apply Co2
Crazymatt77
New Member
My spider mites problem is actually on all my pepper plants. I used ghost peppers to make this spray. How ironic is it that I used the plant that had the infestation to cure it? It doesn't get any more natural to cure a plant than with its own fruit!
Just put the first spraying on. Hopefully, this does the trick. It looks like they all quit moving already. I just need the plants to survive till I move them outside, then the lady bugs will do the rest of the job.
Just put the first spraying on. Hopefully, this does the trick. It looks like they all quit moving already. I just need the plants to survive till I move them outside, then the lady bugs will do the rest of the job.
DFGardenGnome
New Member
This worked great for me and saved my crop. Thanks.HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%
By Calibuzz - 30 year grower
View attachment 1831939
Cured Clone - see new growth!
You have Spider Mites? YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!!! Unless you are diligent and work hard, the problem will not go away, your crop is doomed as one by one they fail and die.
As a Native American, proud of our heritage and ways in keeping with the environment, I give to you a method that is naturally harmonious, and pure. The method is so benign, you may use this method even during flowering - without a single harm to your precious plants.
The best way is not the easiest by far; to do the perfect job takes comitment - so all you lazy bud heads who want a quick fix: "look elsewhere, or coat your precious medicine with chemicals and poison...and remind me not to smoke your herb."
Editor's note: One will find a bit of cross talk in this thread, and some rude posts. The Editor aplogizes that many have strayed off the central subject and prefer to haze each other. However, one will find many other concerned members with great suggestions and feedback. - calibuzz
"Now then, for all you fervent horticulturists..."
Spider mites are alive; you can make them dead. All life is fragile, but... "how do I kill the mites without hurting my crop?"
I will not use pesticides or harmful chemicals on my plants; thus, I have found an all-natural way to rid the infestations that sometimes occur. Curing your plants takes time and care, but you can rid your babies of the mini-spiders that suck your plant's life's blood.
Spiders have skin-like exoskeletons; the tissues are sensitive to change. Molecules soak though their pours, skin and orifices; thus, what may bother you - a giant living organism - might prove fatal to a spider the size of a pinhead. This is so when using a common group of proteins found in Nature. I will teach you how to naturally and inexpensively rid your plants of the dreaded spider mites.
The Habanera Pepper (sometimes pronounced Habenero) is the key ingredient in pepper spray. Once you make a batch of CALICLEAN you'll see why. One may buy habanera peppers in any vegetable section for about 6 dollars a pound. The peppers are light orange to dark red, and are about the size of a bic lighter when fully mature, most are half that size. Go buy a pound, now!!! If you have mites, time is of the essence.
NOTICE: The spray you make is not harmful to humans (hab peppers are an ingredient in all really good south of the border salsas), but irritating to mucus membranes and soft tissues, it will make you cough - as its like breathing chili powder, so use care.
"GEE, MY PLANT LEAVES ARE DOTTED WITH WHITE SPOTS AND TURNING PALE OR YELLOW."
If you have taken a powerful magnifying glass to the underside of your plant's leaves you will have seen the little off-yellow dots with a brown center that move about slowly over the plant leafs and veins - the mature mites. These big mites leave web-strands like other spiders. Web strands between leaf and stems (as they cross back and forth to new vulnerable leaves), and between leaf serrations are indications of a healthy infestation and big mites on your plants. You may also have seen almost too-hard-to-see little brown dots crawling slowly about. These are the baby mites that will grow into big suckers. You may also have seen groups of little white dots near the central leaf brachiation and the main leaf veins. These are clutches of mite eggs. They will soon hatch and produce up to 80 mites per clutch, per mature mite. You are screwed if you do nothing. But fret not, you can save your plants, and they will recover and thrive - with diligence.
HERE IS WHAT TO DO
Making the Calicleaner
1.) Get a sauce pan - fill with one pint of water - put on lowest flame possible (do not boil !!!).
2.) Chop 4 -5 Habanera peppers fine. Chop open seeds and central membranes, as the power lies there.
3.) Simmer chopped peppers for 20 minutes - making sure not to boil (you will destroy the active proteins).
4.) When you put your head over the pan and the wispy-steam stings your eyes, the Calicleaner is ready.
5.) Pour the Calicleaner through a fine mesh strainer - a little fine grit is OK - let cool in a clean bowl.
6.) Pour room temperature contents in a mister spray bottle. Your are ready to apply.
HOW TO APPLY Calicleaner
1.) Put on gloves, and wear a mask, or at least put a bandana around your nose and mouth.
2.) Turn off all fans - you do not want this spray in your eyes!!!
3.) Spray the bottom of EVERY leaf - starting with the bottom leaves first, work up to the top.
4.) After the bottoms are done, hit the tops and the stems.
5.) Squirt liberally in new leaf pods - tightly wound new leaf growth (the small mites hide there).
6.) Get the heck out of the room till it clears.
7.) Repeat procedure with each plant.
8.) Spray the soil, the pots, and the floor or earth around the area to kill dropping mites and stop migration.
9.) Wash hands with soap and water when complete - the stuff will heat-up skin for 4 hours.
10.) DO NOT WORRY. Though the stuff is lethal to mites, the plants love it.
WHAT’S NEXT??
Congratulations! You have successfully killed the mites that you sprayed - on contact!. Plus, the mites are thwarted in biting again as they get a lethal dose of hot mouth. Your plants should be turning green again with in half a day. Though the leaves are scarred, they will recover and work again - producing vital sugars for growth.
However, you are not done. Some mites will escape the spray, though you have killed 95% of them. Thus, you will have to do the spray again tomorrow. As a matter of fact you will have to spray every 2-3 days till you see no more mites - usually up to two weeks. SOME EGGS WILL HATCH!!! Thus a week after the first spray, do a super job again, the baby mites are likely out and about. Kill 'em right away.
Use your magnifying glass to inspect each plant carefully, when nothing moves and you see no more webs, your plants are clear. YEAH!!
Additional precautions: make sure your containers and pots do not touch, mites migrate. Clean your floors and equipment so live mites do not return (spray them down with Caliclean). Since no person can kill every living mite in their situation, eternal diligence is now part of the equation. One mite may turn into a million in a month.
Other helpful hints: wash your plants with clean water spray between sprayings, this cleans off dead mites and eggs, and refreshes the plant leaf compromised by the vampire sucking mites. Keep the room cool, 78 degrees to 68 degrees if possible during treatment. Mites hate the cold - thus weakened mites will drop dead. If lower leaves are infested with eggs and mites - cut them off! DO NOT LEAVE CUTTINGS NEARBY! Burn or bury your cuttings far away.
Spraying notes: Mites tend to collect where the leaves join at the nexus and overlap. If you can, lay your plants on-end or position upsidedown (be real careful) to make sure all undersides are sprayed. Cut off curled leaves where they collect. If you're a rich person you may make a full pound to ten gallons of water and dunk them - even better!!
The best part of using Calicleaner is you may use it always - even during flowering. As the solution is all natural, no one is harmed but the mites: "Nature to deal with Nature." Your money goes to a farmer not a chemical corporation.
Caliclean works,
Check often; check carefully; your plants will thank you with fine flowering! Be good to your Natural Medicine, and it will be good to you.
Good Luck and best wishes, "How Ni Kan, Megwetch," Peace be with you always,
Calibuzz
View attachment 1831939View attachment 1831941View attachment 1831940
Image one: Cured Clone - see new growth.
Image two: Cured Nursery - all plants mite free after caliclean!
Image three: After the Storm - I was out hiking the mountains and witnessed this.
There is hope at the end of every rainbow; don't give up!
maxiecool2
New Member
throughout the post people have used different chillies with mixed results (im not lazy, i went through all 46 pages)
has somebody worked out what the minimum rating on the scoville scale to get rid of spider mites?
habanero chillies are hard to come by in my area, especially after a tropical cyclone has just the north of the country!
pepperheadsforlife website the-scoville-scale
(wont let me post a link because im a newbe here)
has somebody worked out what the minimum rating on the scoville scale to get rid of spider mites?
habanero chillies are hard to come by in my area, especially after a tropical cyclone has just the north of the country!
pepperheadsforlife website the-scoville-scale
(wont let me post a link because im a newbe here)
Just want to let anyone who is interested know that I had a 99.9% success rate killing spider mites using co2. My process was to place the plant in some sort of container, a 55 gallon trash can is what I used for my larger plants. Place the plant in the container, fill it with co2, and wait an hour before removing the plant. The co2 will suffocate the mites and is relatively harmless to the plants so long as they are not left in the environment for extended periods of time.
IMPORTANT POINTS:
-co2 is toxic to humans at levels this high, make sure you have someone with you in case you start to get light headed, best to do this outside in open air.
- the plant must be kept under light. I do not know why this is the case, I assume it has something to do with the plants ability to process co2 while it is photosynthesizing.
- DO NOT DO THIS IN THE DARK, I cannot stress that enough. The plant needs light while you are treating it.
-INTENSE LIGHT IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS USING THIS METHOD.
- try to ensure no leaves or growths are touching the sides of the container your plant is in
- I have only tried this on vegetative plants. I have not yet used this method during flower, so I don't recommend treating flowering plants unless you are willing to continue the experiments. I severely hurt 3 plants getting this technique down.
-I know it kills every stage past the egg, but am unsure if it kills the eggs too.
Good luck and happy hunting. I almost felt bad after using this method as it was too easy, and showed immediate results.
IMPORTANT POINTS:
-co2 is toxic to humans at levels this high, make sure you have someone with you in case you start to get light headed, best to do this outside in open air.
- the plant must be kept under light. I do not know why this is the case, I assume it has something to do with the plants ability to process co2 while it is photosynthesizing.
- DO NOT DO THIS IN THE DARK, I cannot stress that enough. The plant needs light while you are treating it.
-INTENSE LIGHT IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS USING THIS METHOD.
- try to ensure no leaves or growths are touching the sides of the container your plant is in
- I have only tried this on vegetative plants. I have not yet used this method during flower, so I don't recommend treating flowering plants unless you are willing to continue the experiments. I severely hurt 3 plants getting this technique down.
-I know it kills every stage past the egg, but am unsure if it kills the eggs too.
Good luck and happy hunting. I almost felt bad after using this method as it was too easy, and showed immediate results.
supdro
Well-Known Member
How did you do this? I mean putting co2 in a bag and gasing the plant
Co2 is heavier than air. I bought a tank, and five feet of tubing. I make sure the tube is in the bag, and the bag is closed tightly around it, then I turn on the co2, until the bag has inflated to the desired level. Then I pull out the tube and tie the bag shut
Ok so caliclean man. I'm. A fan and have indeed used this formula/spray schedule in the past with very good results. Also could be used as pepper spray for a garden intruder. How does it fair with broad russet mites ? Those are my issue now in my outdoor Hawaiian greenhouse. I'm gunna start rotating it in with a couple other sprays I use nuke em right now what's your input? I don't remember it being perticilarly harsh on plants ?