RexGrowsman8
New Member
Hey guys this my first run at soil. I got natures living auto flower concentrate and happy frog. Anyone familiar with how to mix this? And is it true it will be too hot for a seedling? Any help appreciated
How to mix?
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xtsho
Well-Known Member
From their website:
HOW TO USE
Super Soil Technique:
1. Add 1lb of Nature's Living Soil concentrate for every 1.5 gallons of organic potting soil to make a ready to use Super Soil (about 1/3 of a 5 gallon container)
2. Fill a container 1/3 full with the super soil from step 1 and 2/3 with organic potting soil.
3. Plant and water from seed to harvest
Living Soil Technique:
1. Thoroughly mix 1 lb of Nature's Living Soil concentrate for every 5 gallons of organic potting soil to make a ready to use Living Soil
2. Make a small hole, about the size of a 16oz cup, and fill with organic potting soil.
3. Plant and water from seed to harvest
Top Feeding:
1. Sprinkle a thin layer of Nature's Living Soil concentrate on the top of the soil and water.
HOW TO USE
Super Soil Technique:
1. Add 1lb of Nature's Living Soil concentrate for every 1.5 gallons of organic potting soil to make a ready to use Super Soil (about 1/3 of a 5 gallon container)
2. Fill a container 1/3 full with the super soil from step 1 and 2/3 with organic potting soil.
3. Plant and water from seed to harvest
Living Soil Technique:
1. Thoroughly mix 1 lb of Nature's Living Soil concentrate for every 5 gallons of organic potting soil to make a ready to use Living Soil
2. Make a small hole, about the size of a 16oz cup, and fill with organic potting soil.
3. Plant and water from seed to harvest
Top Feeding:
1. Sprinkle a thin layer of Nature's Living Soil concentrate on the top of the soil and water.
insomnia65
Well-Known Member
True enough, it was there already.
RexGrowsman8
New Member
Thanks
getogrow
Well-Known Member
Yes, i would have to assume its going to be too hot for a seedling. pop the seed in the plain happy frog and surround it with the good mix like xsto said.
Posting some info regarding NLS. Comparison between FFOF mixed with 12oz. NLS and straight up FFOF soil. Depending on how you plan to go, i.e., water only or add nutes/amendments, this might be an eye opener. Check the concentration of various nutrients. A lot of other growers have had issues with using NLS in their soil mixes, me included. Kudos to a member here and on another site for originally posting the reports.
(posted by Tom Bombadil on another site)
Straight FFOF Soil:
(posted by Bugnacious here)
5gal pot with FFOF and 12oz. NLS Original blend: (Note: He used less than the recommended amount of NLS, i.e., 16oz. per 5gal of soil)
(posted by Tom Bombadil on another site)
Straight FFOF Soil:
(posted by Bugnacious here)
5gal pot with FFOF and 12oz. NLS Original blend: (Note: He used less than the recommended amount of NLS, i.e., 16oz. per 5gal of soil)
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Rozgreenburn
Well-Known Member
Welcome Newbie, I would use only the Fox farm soil for your clones. Super soil will likely burn them. Good growing...
Seedling in straight FF Happy Frog in a solo cup. After established (2 wks?) transplant to your final soil mix. Or create a hole in your soil mix the size of a solo cup and fill with straight Happy Frog. Start your seed in that pocket of Happy Frog. Check out the soil analysis reports above (original NLS blend-Autoflower blend has even more). There's a ton of stuff in there. In some cases way too much which can cause problems. You may run into issues. I've grown twice with it using Happy Frog soil. Once with NLS regular and 2nd with NLS Autoflower blend. (I'm definitely not an expert) Others as well as myself have had some major issues with it once the plants were about a week or two into flower. With the levels of nutrients in it if or when you have an issue, it makes it difficult to determine what deficiency/excess of a particular nutrient you are experiencing. Other newbie growers and myself are not very happy campers with NLS.
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getogrow
Well-Known Member
Im very skeptical of this "test" . The numbers just dont add up....
Both reports were from different individuals. One had their straight up FF OF soil tested and posted results. The other was having issues with his plants and had his soil analyzed. The 2nd soil was FFOF soil mixed with NLS original blend. He used 12 oz of NLS instead of the recommended 16 oz in 5gal pot. He was only using distilled water so nothing else was added. (some say FF OF soil is already “hot” and then adding an unknown amount of additional nutes can’t be good) Granted it is only one soil test from two different people but...the one with the plant issues was using NLS. Several other growers as well as myself have had/continues to have plant issues using the NLS as directed. Yes we are newbies but the reports show a huge difference in the amounts of nutrients. NLS doesn’t show any type of information as to how much of each ingredient they use thus you don’t know how much of each nutrient is being added when you mix using their amendments. Their Girl Flower Power doesn’t even show ingredients. I’ve used each of their soil amendments and had poor results as well as others following the company’s instructions. Not saying it isn’t good, just that following their instructions and lack of nutrient information can be problematic. I bought the sales pitch, “everything your plants need, from seed to harvest, just add water”. For me and others that is an inoperable statement.
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getogrow
Well-Known Member
Where did the manganese disappear to ?
I just seen that the tests were done by two different companies and two different people so thats where im going wrong. I was reading it all wrong. i thought it was a controlled test by the same person.
For my first grow I used NLS original blend. 9.6oz NLS mixed thoroughly with 3gal FF HF soil in fabric pot for a living soil mix. (following NLS Instructions) I used only distilled water for watering. Indoor tent grow. Seed from Six Shooter Auto from FastBuds. Germinated in paper towel then planted directly into 3gal fabric pot. First 4 weeks through veg and 1 week into flower I saw no issues. Week 6, 2nd week in flower, I noticed lower leaves yellowing and brown spots several leaves throughout the plant. Thought I had cal/mag deficiency because of distilled water (no idea how much of what was already in my soil mix). Added organic cal/mag. Several days later problem was getting worse. I added Recharge thinking it would help the soil uptake more nutrients. Problem continued worsen. Buds would not bulk up and no frost. Continued with just distilled water (checked water PH and was good at 6.7). Went to end of week nine with no improvement. It was if plant just stopped.
Week 7. Seeing brown spots on leaves. Leaves continue to yellow. Removed yellowed leaves that were ready to fall off.
Week 7. Seeing brown spots on leaves. Leaves continue to yellow. Removed yellowed leaves that were ready to fall off.
2nd grow: Zkittlez auto from FastBuds. 9.6oz. NLS Autoflower Blend mixed thoroughly with FF HF soil in 3 gal fabric pot. Watered with distilled water pH’d to 6.2-6.3 at each watering. Added humidifier. Again plant was fine through veg and 2nd week into flower (began flower at week 4). 2nd week into flower (week6) started seeing the same issues as my first grow, brown spots and yellowing leaves. Thought I had a phosphorous deficiency. Added Recharge. No improvement. Top dressed with FF Cavern Culture (higher phosphorous and potassium for flowering). No improvement. Added Mammoth P at next watering. Problems seemed to slow down a bit. Plant never stretched. Finished her out with just ph’d distilled water at week 9. She was a runt. Several members on another site using NLS were having the same issues. Other members chimed in and with their knowledge pointed out to us the problems with NLS. After seeing the info and soil reports it appears we were running in too hot of a soil mix with NLS (both blends). Adding stuff to fix what we thought were deficiencies made things worse as we had too much of certain nutes and just added more. Now we were all using the NLS with autos. It may be fine for photos as they have a lot more time to grow/recover. But for autos I will be going a different soil route on future grows (as well as the other growers who had issues).
Heavy defoliation of yellowed/crispy leaves. Still chugging along.
Heavy defoliation of yellowed/crispy leaves. Still chugging along.
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From NLS:
NLS Original
This is our original concentrate formula all that needs to be added is any organic potting media such as Roots Organics, Fox Farm or Dr. Earth which is available at Home Depot and other box stores. This concentrate contains all organic ingredients including all the nutrients your plant will need from seed to harvest. Our concentrate is teeming with beneficial microorganisms and fungi designed to help develop a healthy roots system. These microorganisms form a symbiotic relationship with the roots and provide water and nutrients to the roots. The living soil will take care of most of your plants root system needs. (They contradicted themselves)
ORIGINAL LIVING SOIL CONCENTRATE
Our Original Concentrate was designed for photoperiod plants, the base nutrients are longer releasing and allow for up to 3 months of vegetative growth before flowering. (autos can complete the entire veg/flower in 3 months. So what about the flowering stage? Not from seed to harvest)
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE AUTO-FLOWER AND REGULAR PRODUCTS?
Autoflower plants tend to have faster growth cycles are a little more sensitive, we formulate our Auto-flower products for faster availability of nutrients and prevent nutrient burn from a soil that is too hot. (unknown amount of nutrients for an already sensitive plant)
NLS may be fine for photoperiods but for autos.....???
I’ll save my remaining NLS products for plants in my yard as a top dress or for making compost teas. No more living or super soil mixes for me with NLS.
NLS Original
This is our original concentrate formula all that needs to be added is any organic potting media such as Roots Organics, Fox Farm or Dr. Earth which is available at Home Depot and other box stores. This concentrate contains all organic ingredients including all the nutrients your plant will need from seed to harvest. Our concentrate is teeming with beneficial microorganisms and fungi designed to help develop a healthy roots system. These microorganisms form a symbiotic relationship with the roots and provide water and nutrients to the roots. The living soil will take care of most of your plants root system needs. (They contradicted themselves)
ORIGINAL LIVING SOIL CONCENTRATE
Our Original Concentrate was designed for photoperiod plants, the base nutrients are longer releasing and allow for up to 3 months of vegetative growth before flowering. (autos can complete the entire veg/flower in 3 months. So what about the flowering stage? Not from seed to harvest)
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE AUTO-FLOWER AND REGULAR PRODUCTS?
Autoflower plants tend to have faster growth cycles are a little more sensitive, we formulate our Auto-flower products for faster availability of nutrients and prevent nutrient burn from a soil that is too hot. (unknown amount of nutrients for an already sensitive plant)
NLS may be fine for photoperiods but for autos.....???
I’ll save my remaining NLS products for plants in my yard as a top dress or for making compost teas. No more living or super soil mixes for me with NLS.
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getogrow
Well-Known Member
I would never use a company that dont post whats in the mix. Specially in organics. were already clueless , we dont wanna add another clueless factor to the equation. Thanks for finding the results though!
getogrow
Well-Known Member
Throw it in your yard like you planned and use something with an ingredient list. Your plant was underfed some elements and overfed others. I would sure never use that crap now....