How to use chimney to vent ?

Hi as summer is coming its time to vent outside , id like to use my chimney but my hot water heater tank is connected in the same line of ducting . if i connect my in line fan, is there going to be blow back from the water heater exhaust. putting harmfull toxins in the air . how is this done , here is a pic

Wohjew said:

Hi as summer is coming its time to vent outside , id like to use my chimney but my hot water heater tank is connected in the same line of ducting . if i connect my in line fan, is there going to be blow back from the water heater exhaust. putting harmfull toxins in the air . how is this done , here is a pic

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the blue arrows point where i am afraid of blow back .i just want the water heater to able exhaust along with my lights with out causing a problem . hope someone can help

dont do it! go for a basement window or punch a hole out the bond, your in a basement right. if it did work without blowing or SUCKING the pilot light out i would be suprised.

I dont think you should mess with that, If it is in your basement I would try and vent across to a far side unless ur growing big time and if so all I can say is good lick.

Does your furnace has a fresh air intake? It should be around a 6" duct coming into the fresh air return on the furnace from an outside source with some kind of electrical cable attached to it? How old is the house? You might have a older unused brick style chimney that they used to use, but a lot of people when upgrading their furnace installed a B-Vent for carbon monoxide worries. You could pipe that water heater vent into the room to help with your Co2 levels and then vent out the lights using that furnace pipe. Just get a Carbon Monoxide tester in the main living area.

mochadog70 said:

Does your furnace has a fresh air intake? It should be around a 6" duct coming into the fresh air return on the furnace from an outside source with some kind of electrical cable attached to it? How old is the house? You might have a older unused brick style chimney that they used to use, but a lot of people when upgrading their furnace installed a B-Vent for carbon monoxide worries. You could pipe that water heater vent into the room to help with your Co2 levels and then vent out the lights using that furnace pipe. Just get a Carbon Monoxide tester in the main living area.

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the house is built in late 70 or early 80s i think , dont know its a rental . i wanted to unhook furnace for the summer and hook up my fan to exhaust my 3x1000watters along with the water heaTER....venting the water heater back into the room is not an option but thanks for your reply . the air is way yoo hot anyway if that worked. i hope i can do this cause i dont know what else to do with heat from lights . i use to vent 1 x 1000w back into my house(in the summer) but 3x this summer is going to make my place way too hot. what are my other options ? id like to use the dryer vent but for 12hrs a day there will be a huge gust of wind blowing out creating noise. ect plus i dont got a fenced yard so using a window may be a little heat score . any other opinons ive gotta figure this out. is my 636 inline fan going to cool 3000watts?

there is also no brick .

That fan sounds big enough. Do you have a vent for your sewer pipe down around your room. Plumbing uses a vent pipe to the roof for flow of the drainage and other things. You could attach into that, but it's probably only going to be a 2" time it gets to the roof which might not be big enough to get rid of all that heat. You could run a A/C or those icebox adapter to the lights, but then you'll need a water source?? Fuck it I would just connect it to the water heater like how you have it in your picture. Your water heater doesn't have a fan on it. It just works by the emission flowing up and out. I would just check it at first all the time to make sure that no air in flowing back to the water heater. If you used the right parts and pieces it should give the water heater vent positive pressure. I really doubt it would blow out the pilot light as its in the bottom of the tank.

Just remember install some Co2 sensor in your bedroom and living space just in case. You can buy these at Home Depot for $35 a piece so I would put 1 in the basement, all bedrooms where people sleep and main living floor.

mochadog70 said:

That fan sounds big enough. Do you have a vent for your sewer pipe down around your room. Plumbing uses a vent pipe to the roof for flow of the drainage and other things. You could attach into that, but it's probably only going to be a 2" time it gets to the roof which might not be big enough to get rid of all that heat. You could run a A/C or those icebox adapter to the lights, but then you'll need a water source?? Fuck it I would just connect it to the water heater like how you have it in your picture. Your water heater doesn't have a fan on it. It just works by the emission flowing up and out. I would just check it at first all the time to make sure that no air in flowing back to the water heater. If you used the right parts and pieces it should give the water heater vent positive pressure. I really doubt it would blow out the pilot light as its in the bottom of the tank.

Just remember install some Co2 sensor in your bedroom and living space just in case. You can buy these at Home Depot for $35 a piece so I would put 1 in the basement, all bedrooms where people sleep and main living floor.

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ya i kinda figured if the furnace was disconnected and hooked up my fan like in the picture , the air blowing up would also pull the air rather than blow it back like i thought . is that what you mean by positive pressure mocha? i hope this works . A/c may be added if my temps get over 81F, but im still aircooling regardless. A/C is last resort. im also adding a chiller this summer

I know this is a year old but having the same problem. I finally hooked into the chimney and there is definitely positive pressure coming from the hot water heater pipe which means the CO is filling my lungs as I type this. Did you end up doing it? Any suggestions??

Bought CO meter. Zero ppm.