How would you keeo drivers outside a tent?

...lame noob, lol! No, not a single second, mate!

You could fill the connectors with silicone too! Does the same!
Or simply a few drops of hot glue... I don't know how far apart each pin is from the next one.
But especially these 15-pin plugs look like a lot of fumbling work!
With my cripple fingers I would certainly need hours to get the job done, lol!
 
Randomblame said:
...lame noob, lol! No, not a single second, mate!

You could fill the connectors with silicone too! Does the same!
Or simply a few drops of hot glue... I don't know how far apart each pin is from the next one.
But especially these 15-pin plugs look like a lot of fumbling work!
With my cripple fingers I would certainly need hours to get the job done, lol!
Click to expand...
Ya 15 seems like it'd be a nightmare. 6 is manageable. It's OK to use the 5 pin to run both hlg through though? 185-1400s Max is 143v -with 4 36v cobs and 240-2100s is 119v-With 3 36v cobs=108v so it's like RIGHT at 250 & juuuust over 250, like 262 at total possible
 
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Yea, these connectors are rated at least 400 and 500v(depending on pin #), and the pins itself looks pretty massive and ensure high current flow(10, 20 or up to 30A) and low resistance. I expect no issues!
 
Airwalker16 said:
Ya 15 seems like it'd be a nightmare. 6 is manageable. It's OK to use the 5 pin to run both hlg through though? 185-1400s Max is 143v -with 4 36v cobs and 240-2100s is 119v-With 3 36v cobs=108v so it's like RIGHT at 250 & juuuust over 250, like 262 at total possible
Click to expand...
I would use a Terminal Bus for your connections, where you have all the AC connections.
One for your Live, and one for your Neutral. Maybe even one for ground, instead of having multiple different connection points hook all the lives, plus AC live to 1, and all the neutrals, plus AC neutral to a different one. They are rated for 600v, and 15A,
s-l400.jpg
You would just need to jump 1 side with wire, or something like this.
shopping.jpg
 
Aolelon said:
I would use a Terminal Bus for your connections, where you have all the AC connections.
One for your Live, and one for your Neutral. Maybe even one for ground, instead of having multiple different connection points hook all the lives, plus AC live to 1, and all the neutrals, plus AC neutral to a different one. They are rated for 600v, and 15A,
View attachment 4157580
You would just need to jump 1 side with wire, or something like this.
View attachment 4157584
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Why? 5 pole Wagos using 18 & 14 awg won't work now?
 
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No, they work, it looks only a bit cleaner for others. But in the end it's all the same and up to you what you prefer.
I really like Wagos hot glued to the bottom, it looks nice and no screwdriver is needed to open the connections.
 
Airwalker16 said:
Why? 5 pole Wagos using 18 & 14 awg won't work now?
Click to expand...
Oh no they will. I didnt know that's what you decided on. I was just saying for cleanliness. I guess it's just what you like, randomblame likes the look of wagos, I'm not a huge fan of how they look
 
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Aolelon said:
Oh no they will. I didnt know that's what you decided on. I was just saying for cleanliness. I guess it's just what you like, randomblame likes the look of wagos, I'm not a huge fan of how they look
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It'll all be inside a box you can't even see, buddy!
 
Wago's the whole way. I mount half of my drivers outside my room with them to keep heat down, and they are a nice quick disconnect....
 
Guys if you had to place a layout for a build how would you do it with what I'm using? I've drawn up a few but I just can't figure out what the best way would be for what I'm gonna use.

6-Round R/B/W clusters@35W
6-CXB3070@35W
4-CXB3070@50W

I feel like I should split the HLG-240-2100 in to 2 parallel strings of 3 series. But there's still the option to just use it at full power and do 3 series at 75watts.
 
The first thing I do is the LED layout.
How do I have to distribute them to get as even coverage as possible over the entire area. Each spectrum and each color taken individually should cover the entire area as evenly as possible.
At the end all spectra and colors should mix evenly, no matter which of the diodes I switch on or off.
Does not make sense if one side is more warm white and the other cold white, unless you want that.

When I have done that, I think about which drivers are the most suitable. Do I want a separate Veg switch? Do I want to use the colored diodes permanently or only as kind of a bloom booster? Should it be dimmable?

I don't know how big your area is and if you want to use COB's and PCB's all together or not.
620w is probably for a 4x 4', isn't it?
At least I have to know if it is a rectangular or a square surface that should be illuminated.

For a rectangular area the layout could look like this:

rectangular layout.jpg

For a square area like this:

square layout.jpg

Distributed in this way you could switch off for instance all the RBW's or all 50w CXB's and still have a nice and even coverage.
 
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35w COB's and RBW's could be used in two parallel strings but I would check the vf of each string and would try to get indentical values. Maybe you need to test the RGB's separately to be sure they all have identical vf.
There will be a slight voltage differences and you must mix the strings so that they both have almost the same voltage. Only 1v would lead to slightly different brightness and the difference gets even bigger when the LEDs warm up.
Maybe easier to use 2 HLG-240H-C1050B for 6x 35w per CXB's and 6x 35w RBW's and an HLG-185H-C1400B for the 50w CXB's. What's the vf of these RBW's?
 
Randomblame said:
The first thing I do is the LED layout.
How do I have to distribute them to get as even coverage as possible over the entire area. Each spectrum and each color taken individually should cover the entire area as evenly as possible.
At the end all spectra and colors should mix evenly, no matter which of the diodes I switch on or off.
Does not make sense if one side is more warm white and the other cold white, unless you want that.

When I have done that, I think about which drivers are the most suitable. Do I want a separate Veg switch? Do I want to use the colored diodes permanently or only as kind of a bloom booster? Should it be dimmable?

I don't know how big your area is and if you want to use COB's and PCB's all together or not.
620w is probably for a 4x 4', isn't it?
At least I have to know if it is a rectangular or a square surface that should be illuminated.

For a rectangular area the layout could look like this:

View attachment 4164910

For a square area like this:

View attachment 4164911

Distributed in this way you could switch off for instance all the RBW's or all 50w CXB's and still have a nice and even coverage.
Click to expand...
Yes. It's a 4X4 square. And you've got a few too many in the one you drew up. Haha. I like what you're going towards though. Maybe relabel it and put the right amount in it? I'd like to see what you've got in mind.
 
Randomblame said:
35w COB's and RBW's could be used in two parallel strings but I would check the vf of each string and would try to get indentical values. Maybe you need to test the RGB's separately to be sure they all have identical vf.
There will be a slight voltage differences and you must mix the strings so that they both have almost the same voltage. Only 1v would lead to slightly different brightness and the difference gets even bigger when the LEDs warm up.
Maybe easier to use 2 HLG-240H-C1050B for 6x 35w per CXB's and 6x 35w RBW's and an HLG-185H-C1400B for the 50w CXB's. What's the vf of these RBW's?
Click to expand...
The rbw will be using the same drivers they have in the fixture. They're 700MA and 24-36v. I can't get a clear answer from the mfctr so I'm not gonna try to throw them on a 185-700/1050. But it's
2 rbw per driver (3 of them)
4cxbs on a 185-1400
And 6 on a 240-2100(2 parallel strings of 3 series.)

I'm thinking of around a 40"X40" frame or so.

Keep in mind these will all be on 140mm pin sinks.
 
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