Humboldt Nutrient Organic line - Incomplete? Lacking?

Biological Graffity

Biological Graffity

Active Member
TheOrganic said:
Who knows but I know it smells like rotting fish ass with some crazy funky ass smell and that is telling me it is sure organic but I'm not being a smart ass. Humboldt has been some good stuff for me I like it and it is forgiving.
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I'm glad I'm not the only one who notice the smell, but gotta say I'm fairly content using HN for now in my stile grow...check out my brewing station ...how concerned should I be about foul odor, and how long can I brew them for?( the videos say at least 1 or 2 days but can I go for 5 to 7?)
 

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SMOKEnCHOKE

SMOKEnCHOKE

Active Member
Ive read that going passed 3 days is a gamble..Unless you are refrigerating the tea...I've also read confilcting things about the smell...Some people say its supposed to but others say if it smells really bad you let it go too long
 
ClosetSafe

ClosetSafe

Active Member
Biological Graffity said:
I'm glad I'm not the only one who notice the smell, but gotta say I'm fairly content using HN for now in my stile grow...check out my brewing station ...how concerned should I be about foul odor, and how long can I brew them for?( the videos say at least 1 or 2 days but can I go for 5 to 7?)
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I'm pretty sure you could keep it going if you kept feeding them.
On the other hand, i'm pretty sure there is such a thing as too long.

But this is interesting,
When it gets foamy, adding a couple drops of Grow Natural dissipates the foam.
 
xxEMOxx

xxEMOxx

Well-Known Member
WOW ok, I am amazed how this thread has went for over the year its been running.

I use HN, ORGANIC only, only the 2 part, and basically its a supplement feeding at best. I have my Foliar spary stuff ( basically C02 and light seedweed/kelp extract or just plain water depending on the time/stage) then I have my in ground/ plant to waste feeding, although soil stores stuff so not exactly waste.

As far as I am concerned this line is meant for larger pot soil growers such as myself and my OD friends. It askes to be brewed, not 100% nesacary but it helps the micros and stuff multiply which helps uptake and storage for later parts of the season.

If you read the NPK numbers it is super low compared to most products and specially compared to some of advances line and other "hydro specific/prefered lines" Throwing some of Advance stuff for me into my soil will do 1 of 2 things; burn the plant or run straight to waste and be useless.

Anyway..... I am a huge fan of the 2 part Organic, used in conjuction with the rest of my feeding program. Its a good solid organic light nutrient giver btw I run about 1/2-3/4 what the bottle size strengthwise feed each pot lightly then supplement for additional mositure need mt. spring water. RO water is ok, but is missing trace elements hence why need 10-15 different $50+ bottles to do with what these 2 bottles, some good well or even tap water, and some organic fish emulsion and nice soil mix can for you!!!

As Dr. Frankenstine said " ITS ALIVE!!!! " which is the same reason to all my soil mixes I add 1-2 small shovel fulls of my outside yard dirt, " it has the mycozzaie, worm eggs, and other bacteria that is needed in symboisos with the roots and plant needs to help use whats given and provide in one way or another what is not, where in hydro everything is so rushed, "weak", and "sterile" what is not provided is missing period!!! So if you are not providing its all and in the right order, amount etc. it will work on not!!!

In soil you have the power of life, in the Humboldt Nutrients Organic line the power of life and the dependence on life is there.

IT is a rocking line with used properly, I for one would never run a hydro grow with this stuff I do not find it the proper tool for the job, but as my above rant/lecture/informaction session shows for larger pot organic feedings as a solid supplementery factor for good soil / organic regiment its PERFECT.


XXEMOXX

Just my 2 cents........
 
xxEMOxx

xxEMOxx

Well-Known Member
Ya'll both know purple maxx, and snow storm, bushmaster, and gravity are from a different company all together!!!

Bush Master, and Snow Storm are sickness.... but they are from the company called, "Humboldt County's Own" which is from Eel River Hydro....... Great Products!!!! Haven't had a chance to run em on my I.D. this season as I am not there yet, but will.
 
dednbloated

dednbloated

Well-Known Member
SMOKEnCHOKE said:
I didn't mean with the snow storm I just meant foaming when using HN Organic grow/bloom, honey es, and equilibrium...Mine foam up like crazy after I bubble them for a day
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lol ohhh well i never did with humboldt nutes but have wit general orgaanics and didnt have the problem it also has a real fd up ph but plants are healthy as cann b. wish i could help ya , o wait i can i think lol, r u using and air stone ? u should use a larger air source if so, i havent done this but i hear u need a larger air source .... i also came across this Im not the brains behind it , thanx fatman...

There are two forms of bacteria that cause foaming (Nocardia and Microthrix) as they have hydrophobic cell surfaces so air bubbles attach to their surfaces so they float to the waters surface. They are highly susceptible to toxins (ie Chlorine) so this means light amounts kill them but not the beficial bacteria that do the nitrite and nitrate conversions. Nitrate is the preferred form of nitrogem for plant uptake. Other than killing of the Nocardi or Microthrix (floating bacteria) the only way to control the problem is eliminate the organic oils. However eliminating the oils means eliminating most of the nutrients. Nocardia are caused by excess oils, long and increases in temperature. Microthrix Parvicella are caused by excess animal and vegetable greases and oils, but prefer colder temperatures. Both require high DO. Both bacteria are present in organic fertilizers as the fertilizers are not disinfected or sterilized.
 
SMOKEnCHOKE

SMOKEnCHOKE

Active Member
Im using two air pumps and 4 air stones per 20 gallons. My temps in the room that I bubble the nutes in never go above 75. My plants are doing fine besides a cal/mag issue that I fixed so I was just wondering if it's a bad thing
 
T

thatwhitekid

Member
Well, I have been using the organic basic schedule from HN and love it!

I started using it indoors as an experiment. The "basic" schedule from HN says to use Grow, Bloom, Equilibrium, Honey ES, and Myco Madness. I replaced Myco madness with great white cause I had a bunch left over.

First things first, I have never had plants that looked so healthy with little to no effort. No purple stems, just happy green leafs, and awesome growth rate. In flower I could tell I was missing the Deuce Deuce but the flowers were still dense and fairly snowy.

Something else about this experiment was that I was trying a 150w hps in a 2x4. Never grew with less then a 400w inside but always wanted to give it a try. My entire experiment setup cost less then $450 with nutrients that would last 5-6 grows If I didn't cycle out my nutrients every 6 mos. My whole idea/plan/reason for the experiment was to see if it was possible to grow decent/good quality organic meds in a small apartment closet, with minimal costs. It was nice, but if I had to do it again, I'd try a 250w in a cool tube. Those all in one 150's just don't cut it.

Aside from that, I feel that using the natural grow, bloom, and equilibrium can overdose your plants on Calcium. Equilibrium has 12% Calcium in it, where as the base already has 10%. Next time I will use Deuce Deuce and only add the equilibrium every other week or when showing a deficiency.

I would like to add the prozyme as well as flavorful. I was thinking about adding the SI as well, but this is a synthetic nutrient. The only reason I was thinking of using SI is that it is great for correcting a ph that is to low, as well as being able to us it as foliar to help combat PM.

I have been using the basic schedule outdoors as well and I have a DHN Chernobyl thats gonna be a lb plus. I am loving HN, they have good tech support as well.

Something to add to the experiment, I did a nutrient take off, where I figured the quantities and costs of all the nutrients. It cost less then $8 for my entire 12 week grow feeding 1 gallon a wk.
 
K

kush head

Member
Humboldt Organic line is defiantly on point.

The Prozyme is pure natural plant enzymes necessary to break shit down in soil. By far one of the best enzyme products out ther.

The Mayan MicroZyme is micro encapsulated bacteria. Pure Nitrogen fixing bacterias. You have to brew it like a tea to get the most out of it. 2oz of Mayan and 2 oz of Honey Es per gallon to brew for 3days minimum to let activate. Each gallon of brew can be diluted to 20 gals of water for root drench. Mayan will build organic matter, regulate and fixate nitrogen and remediate bad soil as well. MM is a must for organic gardeners.

Their white widow is pure endos great in the beggining root growth.

I find all HN products are really concentrated and go a long way. Money well spent.
 
K

kush head

Member
2-3 of Mayan and 2 oz of honey Es per gal in a brew. Let brew for a minumum of 3 days to let activate. Dilute each gal of brew in 20 gal of water. Add a dash of nitrogen while brewing as ther Mayan is a nitrogen fixer and thrive of nitro. Mayan has aerobic and anaerobic bacterias so if you bubble the brew 50/50 you will get a well balanced brew.
 
R

RICARDOx215

New Member
When should you start the bloom natural. Once its flowering time or while vegging?? Rookie question i know.
I am doing. Grow natural. Bloom natural combined with Deuce Deuce natural.
I started with clone. They are about 2/3 weeks old. I have 6 25 gal pots with half being blue dream. The other half green crack. And i have 2 10/15 gal pots running green crack. I am growing outdoors in CA
 
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