Humidity in Curing Jars

shannonball

Well-Known Member
does anyone ever vacuum seal them once they are cured out? we do and when we open a new jar you hear that little wisp of air rushing in and after about 20 minutes its smells like heaven again. We find everything stays fresh and nice. just asking.
 

ag843

Active Member
Boveda 62 packs take all the worry out of curing. Best cure for the least amount of money.
i just got my shipment in just in time for cure. i read a few diff opinions on here about these...was curious how are you using yours. are you still drying, burping etc or you just drying jarring and throwing in your packs?
 

blaz3r2

Member
How do you use the boveda 62 packs. Do you put them in the jar as soon as the buds do or do you slowly drop the humidity then use the packs as reassurance to keep it steady?
 

Duke5280

New Member
I've been reading up on the curing process and it seems to me that a meter that measures the actual moisture content of the flower would be more beneficial and accurate then knowing the RH of a jar. The RH meters I've been reading about on here take several days to get an accurate reading and it's still a guessing game at that point.
I have a table top instrument that will give you "real time" data that can be used to know when your product should be removed from the drying process as well as knowing when the curing process is complete. It's an investment, but if you could be guaranteed a perfect crop on every harvest, wouldn't that be worth it?
 

kaydeezee

Well-Known Member
Is 6 days drying at 20c and 55%rh on a drying rack to soon for the jars?? The steam's bend and cracked but not snap ' unless I wiggle it a little ?? In the jars holding under 70%rh so how long do I leave them before I burp??
 

outlier

Well-Known Member
You don't want anything above 65% sitting in the jar for long. 70% for me means the gear needs to be aired straight away. I live in a humid climate though so mould is a much higher risk.

This is useful for checking your mould risk: http://www.dpcalc.org/

I don't use the days to mould, I just use it to identify risk in general.
http://www.dpcalc.org/
65% and below carries no risk. So once you are in the 60-65 band, you can leave them jarred for as long as you want. I think the 55-60 band is just precautionary.

Also be careful when adding buds to jars that have dried at different rates. One wet nug can still mould you out even with jar humidity in-check. As I have found the hard way :bigjoint:
 

Dan Drews

Well-Known Member
If the buds are still at 70% after a week in the jars, you're doing it wrong. If the buds in the jar are clumping together, dump them into a paper bag for 8 hours with the top folded over. Stick a hygrometer in the bag and see if it drops to 65% or less, then back in the jar for 8 - 12 hours.

Now, are the buds in the jar still clumping together? Yes, back in a paper bag for 8 hours. You need to get down to 65% or below AND notice the buds are starting to 'clink' around in the jar as you spin them. Then you can open the jars, smell them, separate stickies, then put the tops back on the jars - do this twice a day.

Some of you are risking losing your buds to mold by closing them up in jars while they're still too wet. Be careful, don't ruin a perfectly good harvest and all your hard work. Once you do it right, it's really pretty easy. The wet buds are telling you something, be sure to LISTEN and REACT.
 

scrappus

Member
I keep mine +-1 at 43% Yes, I may have dry weed, but I was fooled by the 62%. I lost 1/3 my 1st crop to mold. But I dried it too fast, didn't care if bud stems snapped of the stalk rule because they felt so dry (crispy), which I was instructed didn't matter in my very humid environment. I repeated the crispy/hydrate routine again when I actually detected the mold.

My other two mistakes were also comical. My poor plants, right at harvest they started turning yellow from the bottom up, so I started giving them bat shit(nitrogen). It wasn't working. So I kept adding more. Someone said I "locked them". Had much better luck the next time.
 
I keep mine +-1 at 43% Yes, I may have dry weed, but I was fooled by the 62%. I lost 1/3 my 1st crop to mold. But I dried it too fast, didn't care if bud stems snapped of the stalk rule because they felt so dry (crispy), which I was instructed didn't matter in my very humid environment. I repeated the crispy/hydrate routine again when I actually detected the mold.

My other two mistakes were also comical. My poor plants, right at harvest they started turning yellow from the bottom up, so I started giving them bat shit(nitrogen). It wasn't working. So I kept adding more. Someone said I "locked them". Had much better luck the next time.
I would strongly suggest the "stem snap" rule. Its a good rule of thumb especially for new growers who don't yet have a feel for when a bud is properly dried. Also you can start jarring the smaller buds and let the larger ones go an extra day or two to have a more even cure. This is the best way I have found to get great bud and avoid mold. Also, look into flushing your cannabis plants. This is a popular method done the last two weeks before harvest. You essentially stop feeding your plants anything for the last two weeks, just give it straight water until harvest. The plants will use up whatever nutrients it has left (which will cause some yellowing), this will increase the quality of flavor and smoke of your buds. Giving it nutrients and trying to keep it green up until harvest will make it harsher and give it a grassier smell. I only scratched the surface of this method, so I strongly suggest looking into it further.
 
I keep mine +-1 at 43% Yes, I may have dry weed, but I was fooled by the 62%. I lost 1/3 my 1st crop to mold. But I dried it too fast, didn't care if bud stems snapped of the stalk rule because they felt so dry (crispy), which I was instructed didn't matter in my very humid environment. I repeated the crispy/hydrate routine again when I actually detected the mold.

My other two mistakes were also comical. My poor plants, right at harvest they started turning yellow from the bottom up, so I started giving them bat shit(nitrogen). It wasn't working. So I kept adding more. Someone said I "locked them". Had much better luck the next time.
I keep mine +-1 at 43% Yes, I may have dry weed, but I was fooled by the 62%. I lost 1/3 my 1st crop to mold. But I dried it too fast, didn't care if bud stems snapped of the stalk rule because they felt so dry (crispy), which I was instructed didn't matter in my very humid environment. I repeated the crispy/hydrate routine again when I actually detected the mold.

My other two mistakes were also comical. My poor plants, right at harvest they started turning yellow from the bottom up, so I started giving them bat shit(nitrogen). It wasn't working. So I kept adding more. Someone said I "locked them". Had much better luck the next time.
This is the worst advice i have ever heard. Added nitrogen first of all at anytime during flowering is ridiculous and secondly to add nutes within the last 2 weeks using soil or last week or so in hydro is absolutely ridiculous. Flush your cannabis. OMG nothing drives me more crazy and actually got me to start growing is all the amateurs growing and not flushing out the nutes. Absolutely senseless. You like smoking fertilizers? I prefer a white ash but if ypu like yours black as all hell then go for it. Just dont share.
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
This is the worst advice i have ever heard. Added nitrogen first of all at anytime during flowering is ridiculous and secondly to add nutes within the last 2 weeks using soil or last week or so in hydro is absolutely ridiculous. Flush your cannabis. OMG nothing drives me more crazy and actually got me to start growing is all the amateurs growing and not flushing out the nutes. Absolutely senseless. You like smoking fertilizers? I prefer a white ash but if ypu like yours black as all hell then go for it. Just dont share.
All that green bud isnt going to come from nothing, you actually do need some nitrogen while flowering cannabis or you'll end up with sticks & fluff because she ate herself up from week 1, you wont even make it with long runners.

Flushing doesn't prevent "black ash", feeding the right amounts & drying properly does.
 
This is the worst advice i have ever heard. Added nitrogen first of all at anytime during flowering is ridiculous and secondly to add nutes within the last 2 weeks using soil or last week or so in hydro is absolutely ridiculous. Flush your cannabis. OMG nothing drives me more crazy and actually got me to start growing is all the amateurs growing and not flushing out the nutes. Absolutely senseless. You like smoking fertilizers? I prefer a white ash but if ypu like yours black as all hell then go for it. Just dont share.
You're pretty harsh for someone spreading old wives tales. You can't flush nutrients out of the plant, that's not how it works. Starving the plant may serve other purposes, it definitely will not remove nutrients from the plant. I don't blame you though, that bull has been around forever, and will probably never go away.
 

stox

Member
I would strongly suggest the "stem snap" rule. Its a good rule of thumb especially for new growers who don't yet have a feel for when a bud is properly dried. Also you can start jarring the smaller buds and let the larger ones go an extra day or two to have a more even cure. This is the best way I have found to get great bud and avoid mold. Also, look into flushing your cannabis plants. This is a popular method done the last two weeks before harvest. You essentially stop feeding your plants anything for the last two weeks, just give it straight water until harvest. The plants will use up whatever nutrients it has left (which will cause some yellowing), this will increase the quality of flavor and smoke of your buds. Giving it nutrients and trying to keep it green up until harvest will make it harsher and give it a grassier smell. I only scratched the surface of this method, so I strongly suggest looking into it further.
regarding the first post in the thread - I find this to be very confusing.

can anyone else confirm how to cure the best?
 

Dee Muney

Well-Known Member
I've been reading up on the curing process and it seems to me that a meter that measures the actual moisture content of the flower would be more beneficial and accurate then knowing the RH of a jar. The RH meters I've been reading about on here take several days to get an accurate reading and it's still a guessing game at that point.
I have a table top instrument that will give you "real time" data that can be used to know when your product should be removed from the drying process as well as knowing when the curing process is complete. It's an investment, but if you could be guaranteed a perfect crop on every harvest, wouldn't that be worth it?
What table top instrument is this ?
 

victoryou

Well-Known Member
This is the worst advice i have ever heard. Added nitrogen first of all at anytime during flowering is ridiculous and secondly to add nutes within the last 2 weeks using soil or last week or so in hydro is absolutely ridiculous. Flush your cannabis. OMG nothing drives me more crazy and actually got me to start growing is all the amateurs growing and not flushing out the nutes. Absolutely senseless. You like smoking fertilizers? I prefer a white ash but if ypu like yours black as all hell then go for it. Just dont share.
Should i flush even when using pure organics?
 

HydroDawg421

Well-Known Member
I use a hygrometer and a 62% humidipak. Once it hits <65% RH it goes in the jar with the humidipak and hygrometer. Crack it once or twice a week. Easey peasey.
 

speero78

Well-Known Member
I honestly, have tried this method and in a way it works. It's a pain in the ass of a process, that only works on small qty. I mean it became impossible with 5 LB and above, I even bought the biggest size of mason jars you can think of. so over the past 25 years of doing this, with various techniques. I had to find something that gives the same result but cuts the material, and time, but mostly the fact that with this process no matter what you do, you won't get any possibility of MOLD. Period :). and its works like magic but only if you have the space and some equipment.

What I understood is that we need to keep the moisture in the flower for a period of time. Until all that chlorophyll is broken down. and for that to happen moisture is needed.

You simply cut and hang and keep the Room/Tent at 60Rh/60F, you need both Humidifier, Dehumidifier, and fan, I found that equal-length branches, dry more evenly. I was shocked how slow they dry at only 60RH. It takes almost 14 to 18 days depending on the bud/stem size etc.

I hang them until I get a little kink or a tiny snap sound (no break in half). there I place them in bins and stack them at the 10 to 12-inch mark. drop a numbered Bluetooth hygrometer. so, I know which bin has that specific sensor on the app. I use Govee best ones I used so far(you can calibrate both temp/RH.
Then leave them for 2 weeks maybe closed airtight bin, maybe one burp. But I rarely do. After that kink. there is still a lot of moisture, even though it seems as if they over dried but trust me they never are. Generally, I have a Rh Sensor in the bin, they are steady at 58 to 59 Rh%.

After 2 weeks, I do the final trim and remove all stems. and place them in a large airtight food grade bin, with a sensor and keep a close eye on the readings for the next month or so. and it’s always between 56% and 58% Rh.
But I must say that its expensive when it comes to electricity consumption.
Yet, you are drying and curing in one go. when you pick them to place in the bin, after the kink, they are still somehow velvety like feel.

To Double check that I am in the sweet spot. I monitor the Ambient RH when i bin the flower.
Let us say; its 63 rh%, I then watch the bin sensor and you typically see the readings go from 63 rh% down instead of up (bin closed). and it should stop at 58 rh%. if it goes lower, you over dried them. and it’s still ok because you can rehydrate them. because at this point, you are already 33 days in and had all the moisture needed to cure them. At this point it’s up to you to see how dry you need them for smoke ready.

Note: Some strains do better with an extra month of cure etc., but some are ready to smoke by the time you open that bin (35days after cut).
This way removes all the jar opening labor/hassle and any possibility of mold.
Anyway, hope this helps.
 
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